Can I automate my pool lights?

moore887

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There's a switch on the wall inside my house that controls the two Jandy led lights in the pool. Flipping the switch on and off cycles through the different colors. What would I have to buy so I could control these lights with my phone. I really would like to have the red lights on which isn't an option on the presets.
 

PoolGate

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Sadly, for some unknown reason, Jandy will not allow you to choose red. Have you considered upgrading to iAqualink? Not sure what else you could use accept for a wireless/bluetooth switch. You'd still have to cycle it on/off as many times as needed to get to the right color though.
 
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moore887

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Thanks for the info. I had considered a wireless switch as the most cost effective way of changing the color with my phone. I had guessed that the iaqualink would be able to do custom colors much like a Philips hue system. However, it's difficult to work out exactly what I need to buy to make it happen. Most of the promotional material for the system talks about fountains and spas etc. I have the Jandy vs pump and salt system but I'm quite sure my heater may not have smart control, plus I don't have a spa.

I'm not sure of even which Jandy led lights I have as I see there's a cooling version now. Mine were put in by the pool builder 2 months ago.
 

PoolGate

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You could probably get away with the Z4 which is their entry level system. The lights would work with the iAqualink since all it does is toggle a relay in the power center. Check out the below for more info. If you do it yourself you'd save a lot. Heaters simply get an "on/off" command from the automation so just about any heater would work with it.

https://www.jandy.com/en/products/controls/aqualink-z4
 

Jcvader99

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Feb 8, 2018
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Just a warning on the "Red" lights... I have a Hayward system that includes reds, pinks and other hues. I NEVER use the red color for any purpose since it looks so pale and dirty. It basically looks like brown with a red glow underneath, which is more or less a murky muddy color.

Unless you're trying to get a "Red, White and Blue" continuous rotation for July 4th parties, then you might want to reconsider your need for red lights in the pool. :unsure:
 

PoolGate

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Just a warning on the "Red" lights... I have a Hayward system that includes reds, pinks and other hues. I NEVER use the red color for any purpose since it looks so pale and dirty. It basically looks like brown with a red glow underneath, which is more or less a murky muddy color.

Unless you're trying to get a "Red, White and Blue" continuous rotation for July 4th parties, then you might want to reconsider your need for red lights in the pool. :unsure:
FYI: Jandy has a red color in their color wheel. For "USA" and a couple other themes (yes, they have a "USA" theme!), the red of course is in it. And Jandy lets you choose individual colors along with the handful of themes. But, red is the one color that you cannot choose on its own. Not sure why. But at night when you want some peace and quiet it is the least obtrusive of all the colors providing a very soft glow in the pool. I cannot imagine why they didn't program this in unless perhaps it is simply a design flaw.

Sequence Order Color Modes
1 Alpine White
2 Sky Blue
3 Cobalt Blue
4 Caribbean Blue
5 Spring Green
6 Emerald Green
7 Emerald Rose
8 Magenta
9 Violet
10 Slow Color Splash
11 Fast Color Splash
12 America the Beautiful
13 Fat Tuesday
14 Disco Tech
 

moore887

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Hi all,

Just to follow up on this. I bought a wifi switch on amazon. Smart Switch by Martin Jerry | works with Alexa, Smart Home Devices Works with Google Home, 2.4G Wifi, No Hub is required, Easy installation, App and Voice control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSTJ8TV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JzRBCb92G87NQ
Good price too. However, when I went to install it, I saw that the existing switch that the pool builders put in, has only a white and a black wire (plus copper ground). From the initial reading I have done, it looks like I would have to buy a more expensive switch plus a hub to match (I only have a Philips hue hub and a hub called bond which sends RF to my celling fans.

I hate to abandon this project as it's not worth $200+ to have the lights working off my phone.
 

PoolGate

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Post a pic of the instructions that show the connections. Most likely the 4 wires into the new switch are hot, "switched to light", neutral and ground. You should be able to use this new switch in any single pole application.

I found this - it is as I said. Post a pic of your existing wiring.

sw.jpg
 

ajw22

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Smart switches require a neutral to get their own power.

A mechanical 120v switch just needs to break or make the load wire. If the neutral wire has not been run through the switch box you can’t power the smart switch.

See my post #2 above.
 

PoolGate

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Smart switches require a neutral to get their own power.

A mechanical 120v switch just needs to break or make the load wire. If the neutral wire has not been run through the switch box you can’t power the smart switch.

See my post #2 above.
If the neutral is not run to the existing switch box (in the back of the box perhaps), could he just run neutral to ground since he has a ground?
 

ajw22

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If the neutral is not run to the existing switch box (in the back of the box perhaps), could he just run neutral to ground since he has a ground?
That is dangerous wiring as well as being not to code. It will also trip a GFI if he has one on that circuit.
 

chiefwej

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I’m using the Martin Jerry hubless smart switches to control my pool and spa lights, but mine are just incandescent fixtures with white LED bulbs installed. So it’s just on and off. No programming to flick the switch several times for different colors.

The switches require separate wires for hot, switched and neutral. The neutral is needed to power the WiFi in the switch. The switchs do seem to work well. I’m using several to control all my outside lighting and even my pool heater.
 

moore887

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I found a magnetic switch on home Depot that physically presses the button so that could be an option although the reviews aren't great. I've attached a photo of my existing wiring.
 

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PoolGate

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I found a magnetic switch on home Depot that physically presses the button so that could be an option although the reviews aren't great. I've attached a photo of my existing wiring.
What is in the back of the box though? usually the neutrals are tied together in the back of the box behind the switch.

Also - Ground and Neutral are tied together in most main boxes. I am just not sure about code on a sub-panel.
 

Bama Rambler

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I've attached a photo of my existing wiring.
That's typical light switch wiring. It has a 2/C romex ran from the switch to the light and they're breaking the hot wire at the light using the black and white wire through the switch. There will be no neutral in that box.
 

PoolGate

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That's typical light switch wiring. It has a 2/C romex ran from the switch to the light and they're breaking the hot wire at the light using the black and white wire through the switch. There will be no neutral in that box.
Yeah I thought that might be the case when I saw the black and white. I do note that that box is a renovation box and can be removed. If it was me, I would remove the box and see what is behind it perhaps there is a neutral someplace that can be accessed through the hole. I am comfortable around electricity though.
 

moore887

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Unfortunately I'm not savvy enough around electric to start making new connections. There is another light switch right beside that one that is also a dimmer for the breakfast nook light. That pool light switch is wired into the whole pool equipment setup (240v breaker in the garage turned it off). I don't believe there is a GFCI on that circuit. I put a quick call into the pool company and asked them about it. There cost to make them smart would be $2,200 plus tax to fit the appropriate equipment.
 

PoolGate

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Unfortunately I'm not savvy enough around electric to start making new connections. There is another light switch right beside that one that is also a dimmer for the breakfast nook light. That pool light switch is wired into the whole pool equipment setup (240v breaker in the garage turned it off). I don't believe there is a GFCI on that circuit. I put a quick call into the pool company and asked them about it. There cost to make them smart would be $2,200 plus tax to fit the appropriate equipment.
You don't need to call the pool company just an electrician. But I suspect the pool light switch comes from the pool sub-panel and the breakfast nook light comes from your main panel. I don't think you could (code) use a neutral from the main box to your sub-panel. If you wanted to just add basic automation to your pool that would cost a couple of thousand.