CaliMar Variable Speed Pool Pump Advice

[PoolStored]

See post #2....

Help installing Calimar 3 HP Pump

Hello, I am replacing a Jandy 1.5 fhpm1.5 pump with Calimar 3 HP pump. The Jandy pump has male threads with specific union for the pump. The calimar pump has female threads and I put 2" male joiner into the female threads but the Jandy union won't screw on because its still to big which doesn't...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

See post #2....

Help installing Calimar 3 HP Pump

Hello, I am replacing a Jandy 1.5 fhpm1.5 pump with Calimar 3 HP pump. The Jandy pump has male threads with specific union for the pump. The calimar pump has female threads and I put 2" male joiner into the female threads but the Jandy union won't screw on because its still to big which doesn't...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks yet again, will those CMP hi temp unions work on the in/out/drain connections of my Pentair CCP 320 filter? I intend to replace as much of the old pipework as I can, not knowing how old it all (house new to us) is and with the Vegas heat for years and years, will be giving the pipework and filter housing a dose of Krylon paint for UV protection and want to build a vented enclosure around the whole equipment - current basic set up below, which I intend to improve and maybe redo and extend the whole pad in poured concrete as its stupidly cramped.

Any advice appreciated, maybe less 90 bends? Its all 2-inch schedule 40 and I've replaced the CCP's filters, air tube, gauge, inner spring, o-ring etc. I'm guessing I can just remove the timer wheel clamps on the intermatic and just leave it on when the VS pump is set up? Or maybe I can switch things around in there so the timer wheel just works the Fiberstars light (now its low wattage LED) instead of the pump or maybe not with the light being 125v and the pump 230v?

 

[PoolStored]

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks yet again, will those CMP hi temp unions work on the in/out/drain connections of my Pentair CCP 320 filter? I intend to replace as much of the old pipework as I can, not knowing how old it all (house new to us) is and with the Vegas heat for years and years, will be giving the pipework and filter housing a dose of Krylon paint for UV protection and want to build a vented enclosure around the whole equipment - current basic set up below, which I intend to improve and maybe redo and extend the whole pad in poured concrete as its stupidly cramped.

Any advice appreciated, maybe less 90 bends? Its all 2-inch schedule 40 and I've replaced the CCP's filters, air tube, gauge, inner spring, o-ring etc. I'm guessing I can just remove the timer wheel clamps on the intermatic and just leave it on when the VS pump is set up? Or maybe I can switch things around in there so the timer wheel just works the Fiberstars light (now its low wattage LED) instead of the pump or maybe not with the light being 125v and the pump 230v?

View attachment 620307 View attachment 620308 View attachment 620309

With the installation of a new pump you should also replace the breaker with a GFCI one. The Seimans brand is known for less nuisance tripping. Hook the wiring to the pump directly to the breaker, or leave it at the time clock with the trippers removed and in the "on" position.

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

With the installation of a new pump you should also replace the breaker with a GFCI one. The Seimans brand is known for less nuisance tripping. Hook the wiring to the pump directly to the breaker, or leave it at the time clock with the trippers removed and in the "on" position.

Would you suggest replacing the breaker in the main house panel with a GFCI or the one in the Intermatic box? I was thinking the house panel one as its the first in line and it would then protect/cover the other stuff in the Intermatic box, like the Fiberstars light and a GFCI outlet there too, its currently a dedicated 2-pole normal 30A one that only supplies the Intermatic panel and is marked up "pool"

I intend to upgrade all the house breakers to dual-function AFCI/GFCI breakers, would this type be suitable for the pool equipment rather than just a GFCI one?

I've replaced all the house power outlets and switches as its a 26 year old property so well ready for a refresh and a check over, found about ten with broken/brittle/poorly wired back cases on them so was a worthwhile task, especially here in Vegas where the heat kills everything and house fires are common,


Thank you

 

[wireform]

No, You want the individual breakers at the equipment having the GFI otherwise you'll need to start disconnecting and play the "process of elimination game" to see the problem circuit.

 

[ajw22]

Would you suggest replacing the breaker in the main house panel with a GFCI or the one in the Intermatic box?

No, When one device catches a cold and causes a GFCI trip you will lose all the devices on the circuit. And it will be difficult to determine which device has failed. You want as few devices on a GFCI circuit as possible,

I intend to upgrade all the house breakers to dual-function AFCI/GFCI breakers, would this type be suitable for the pool equipment rather than just a GFCI one?

No. AFCI is to prevent in-wall fires. Outdoor circuits should only be GFCI. Pool equipment can cause false AFCI trips.

I've replaced all the house power outlets and switches as its a 26 year old property so well ready for a refresh and a check over, found about ten with broken/brittle/poorly wired back cases on them so was a worthwhile task, especially here in Vegas where the heat kills everything and house fires are common,

Your pool timer and CB panel is due for a refresh with modern automation and subpanel.

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

No, When one device catches a cold and causes a GFCI trip you will lose all the devices on the circuit. And it will be difficult to determine which device has failed. You want as few devices on a GFCI circuit as possible,



No. AFCI is to prevent in-wall fires. Outdoor circuits should only be GFCI. Pool equipment can cause false AFCI trips.



Your pool timer and CB panel is due for a refresh with modern automation and subpanel.

The Intermatic panel at the pool equipment is the only load on that 30A circuit - I was always told you put the GFCI at the first load from the main panel or at the main house panel? what a CB panel? do you mean the main house panel?

Noted on the AFCI - They are required code here now in new construction along with a surge protector

When I asked about replacing the pool timer and panel I was told the Intermatic one I have is bomb proof and dont need replacing? I have had to add grease to the gears however as it was ticking and its mounted on the outside of our bedroom wall! I dont have any automation except for maybe a timer for the light now, its a small simple pool set up pump/filter/ light can you suggest what to replace with if you think its needed? May change to salt system in future

 

[ajw22]

The Intermatic panel at the pool equipment is the only load on that 30A circuit - I was always told you put the GFCI at the first load from the main panel or at the main house panel?

You put the GFCI as close to the device you are looking to protect from ground faults.

Multiple devices on a GFCI circuit make it difficult to determine the failing device.

You also don't put multiple GFCIs on a single circuit.

what a CB panel? do you mean the main house panel?

The CB panel in the Intermatic. If is good keep it. Most I see have corrosion and are not in good shape.

Noted on the AFCI - They are required code here now in new construction along with a surge protector

If you read the code, I think you will find the requirement is for indoor circuits. Not for CB's outside like your pool panel is.

When I asked about replacing the pool timer and panel I was told the Intermatic one I have is bomb proof and dont need replacing? I have had to add grease to the gears however as it was ticking and its mounted on the outside of our bedroom wall! I dont have any automation except for maybe a timer for the light now, its a small simple pool set up pump/filter/ light can you suggest what to replace with if you think its needed? May change to salt system in future

If it works for you then keep it.

The pictures you posted are too blurry and small to determine much.

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

You put the GFCI as close to the device you are looking to protect from ground faults.

Multiple devices on a GFCI circuit make it difficult to determine the failing device.

You also don't put multiple GFCIs on a single circuit.



The CB panel in the Intermatic. If is good keep it. Most I see have corrosion and are not in good shape.



If you read the code, I think you will find the requirement is for indoor circuits. Not for CB's outside like your pool panel is.


If it works for you then keep it.

The pictures you posted are too blurry and small to determine much.

Thanks so much for all this! Any suggestions to replace the Intermatic panel as it looks very old and guess would be wise to update at same time as the pump

 

[ajw22]

Thanks so much for all this! Any suggestions to replace the Intermatic panel as it looks very old and guess would be wise to update at same time as the pump

You will not need the timer with your VS pump. You can install a good outdoor subpanel for the circuit breakers.

Looks like you have three CBs - a 20A 240V for the pump which you will change to GFCI. What are the otehr two breakers for? Lights? Is that GFCI?

 

[wireform]

I'd also suggest you put one of these at the pool panel to protect the electronics of the new drive as it doesn't take to a bad surge very well.

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

You will not need the timer with your VS pump. You can install a good outdoor subpanel for the circuit breakers.

Looks like you have three CBs - a 20A 240V for the pump which you will change to GFCI. What are the otehr two breakers for? Lights? Is that GFCI?

yeah is a double pole for pump - cant see the amps, two single poles one for gfci on side of box and other for light, can only see the amps on the one for gfci which is 20a but cant read the others clearly - look like 20 amps, maybe could drop to 15a on the light one now using 7w led not 200w halogen?

They are Thomas and Betts type TB breakers in an Intermatic t20004r1 rainproof type 3R enclosure

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

would the Intermatic AG 3000 be suitable, instead of the PS3000? As I can get that cheaper!

differences are :

AG 3000 got 20kA SCCR rather than 10kA on PS 3000
VPR : L-N/G : 700 L-L : 1200 ratter than VPR: L-N/G 600L-L: 900

Whatever that means! think it means higher Volts surge protection?

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks so much for all this! Any suggestions to replace the Intermatic panel as it looks very old and guess would be wise to update at same time as the pump

No real need to replace the Intermatic panel. If you ever install a SWG, the timeclock can be used for that. Get some self-adhesive weather stripping to re-seal the door (Home Depot) and you are good. The panels will accept type BR breakers. Your light is, apparently, going through the GFCI that is on the side of the panel, according to the label below the breaker. Technically it is non-code, but it works. If you use a AFCI/GFCI breaker you will have nothing but trouble. They are for indoor use.

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

View attachment 620328

Do I need both 270100 and 274426 or is it one or the other? and then do I need 2 of each? Also do I need to get the genuine Pentair ones as they seem to be 4 times the price of other ones? Thank you for your ongoing help

 

[PoolStored]

One or the other, first is black, second is white.

Just search for "270100 replacement"...pick your poison. Make sure they are 2" ID.

 

[Pete from UK but in Vegas]

Thanks Pool Stored - I got the Lasco sweep bends today and other bits ready to change the pump over, just waiting for the Pentair 270100 unions to arrive. A stroke of luck is that the Calimar pump inlet and outlets threads are exactly the same position and height off the pad as my old pump so should be an easy switch over!!!

Does anyone with a Calimar pump know if the display can be unscrewed from its mounting points and rotated either 90 or 180 degrees, as this would make it much easier to see where I have it located? At the moment, the bottom of the display will be closest to the house wall, so rotating the display 180 degrees or even better 90 degrees would make it much easier to see and program. Maybe I should ask this on a separate post?

 

[ajw22]

Does anyone with a Calimar pump know if the display can be unscrewed from its mounting points and rotated either 90 or 180 degrees so its easier to see? At the moment it will be with the bottom of the display closest to the house wall so rotating it 180 degrees of even better 90 degrees would make it much easier to see or program. Maybe I should ask this on a separate post?

Keep all your posts about this here.

I don’t think the display can be rotated. I don’t recall anything in the manual on that.

 

[wireform]

Does anyone with a Calimar pump know if the display can be unscrewed from its mounting points and rotated either 90 or 180 degrees, as this would make it much easier to see where I have it located? At the moment, the bottom of the display will be closest to the house wall, so rotating the display 180 degrees or even better 90 degrees would make it much easier to see and program.

Yes it can