Calcium Hardness

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
17,944
Northern NJ
I have a quality test kit. My CH is 0 I guess because the instruction said after I add the 20 drops of reagent it supposed to turn red. It never turned red it stayed clear. So does that mean 0 CH?
Did you then add 5 drops of R-0011L?

Calcium Hardness (CH) Test**
1. Rinse and fill sample tube (#9198) to 25 mL mark with water to be tested.
2. Add 20 drops R-0010. Swirl to mix.
3. Add 5 drops R-0011L. Swirl to mix. If calcium hardness is present, sample will turn red.
4. Add R-0012 dropwise, swirling and counting after each drop, until color changes from red to blue.
5. Multiply drops in Step 4 by 10. Record as parts per million (ppm) calcium hardness as calcium carbonate (CaCO3). To RAISE CH: See Treatment Tables for adjustment or go to website.
To LOWER CH: Partially drain and refill with fresh water of lower hardness.

K1005 CH Test.PNG
 

YippeeSkippy

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 17, 2012
13,308
Evans, Georgia
Hey there Ben :wave: I notice you're using the K-1005 test kit. That kit is missing an important element you need: the FAS-DPD chlorine tester which measures FC and CC up to 50ppm.

I'd suggest just picking that missing part up and your kit will be comparable to the K-2006 kit. It is important to have that one additional element, seriously :geek:


Maddie :flower:
 

YippeeSkippy

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 17, 2012
13,308
Evans, Georgia
Any tablet that is devoid of CYA will have calcium in it. Calcium pucks don't play nicely with the other type of pucks. Don't add calcium pucks to any puck device that has also had the cya type pucks in there.

You need floaters for the pucks unless you plan on running your pump 24/7. They make still water acidic, and then when you turn the pump on again that harsh acidic water is hard on the equipment. Particularly the gaskets. So by keeping your pump running you constantly move that water and it doesn't build up.

Otherwise, as long as your testing results are still good (within normal limits) they are fine. Just don't allow the CYA to get so high your chlorine needs get higher. See --> FC/CYA Chart

Liquid chlorine or a Salt Water Chlorine Generator are better choices.
 

benmccurdy

Member
Apr 5, 2020
18
Alexandria, Louisiana
Hey there Ben :wave: I notice you're using the K-1005 test kit. That kit is missing an important element you need: the FAS-DPD chlorine tester which measures FC and CC up to 50ppm.

I'd suggest just picking that missing part up and your kit will be comparable to the K-2006 kit. It is important to have that one additional element, seriously :geek:


Maddie :flower:
 

DeanP66

Well-known member
Mar 26, 2014
792
San Jose, CA
While your kit does test FC, it really isn't an accurate test. You want the chlorine test where you add a scoop of powder to the sample to turn it pink and then clear it by adding and counting drops. It is much more accurate, especially once you get over 3 PPM FC. Your kit just compares colors and is really not what you need. If you ever have to SLAM your pool to clear algae, you'll need accurate FC readings up near 20ppm or more which your kit cannot do.

You want this: