May 12, 2012
16
Hi All, I have a pool with a Hayward H250 Ed2 heater. It seems the heat exchanger (which I replaced only 3 years ago) is leaking again. I have a couple of questions. 1)If the heater is leaking when the pump is running but the heater is off, does that mean the internal bypass is broken, or is it just not a particularly good seal? The leak is NOT at the header gasket, which was my first hope based on it leaking both when the heater was on or off. 2) If I do not have a manual bypass on my system, has anyone either made or purchased a u-shaped PVC pipe that could connect to the two pipes that normally go into the heater, so I can run the pump with the heater removed? I have looked and looked but cannot seem to be able to find the appropriate fittings that match what is on the heater header. Since the size and distance between the two ports is pretty standard across the hayward line, it seems like something that someone would have designed and made. If not, I guess I would have to cut my existing pipes and insert 2 3-way bypass valves with a pipe between them to be able to bypass the heater completely, correct? The pipe elbows say 1 1/2" on them - I assume that means I need a 1 1/2" bypass? Thank you for any help or suggestions. Also, has anyone had a heat exchanger successfully repaired at a radiator shop?
 
Hi All, I have a pool with a Hayward H250 Ed2 heater. It seems the heat exchanger (which I replaced only 3 years ago) is leaking again. I have a couple of questions. 1)If the heater is leaking when the pump is running but the heater is off, does that mean the internal bypass is broken, or is it just not a particularly good seal? The leak is NOT at the header gasket, which was my first hope based on it leaking both when the heater was on or off.

The water takes the same path whether the heater is on or off. It can be leaking anywhere in the internal water loop.

2) If I do not have a manual bypass on my system, has anyone either made or purchased a u-shaped PVC pipe that could connect to the two pipes that normally go into the heater, so I can run the pump with the heater removed? I have looked and looked but cannot seem to be able to find the appropriate fittings that match what is on the heater header. Since the size and distance between the two ports is pretty standard across the hayward line, it seems like something that someone would have designed and made.

I have never seen one. You would need to fabricate it.

If not, I guess I would have to cut my existing pipes and insert 2 3-way bypass valves with a pipe between them to be able to bypass the heater completely, correct? The pipe elbows say 1 1/2" on them - I assume that means I need a 1 1/2" bypass? Thank you for any help or suggestions.

Use a 3 way diverter on the input side and a check valve on the output side. Read...


Also, has anyone had a heat exchanger successfully repaired at a radiator shop?

Never heard of it being done. I think if the heat excanger is leaking you will find it too rotted to repair.
 
Thank you, that is very helpful. It is interesting, though - Hayward claims that the internal bypass keeps the water from circulating until it is 104 degrees, and when the pump is off. There's a sliding valve inside the header that is actuated by some sort of rod, but, honestly, I have never seen any evidence that it really does anything.

I have seen people do repairs to these hayward exchangers on Youtube but they are usually using hagher-temp brazing torches than I have access to; I was thinking a radiator shop might be able to repair it. It should not be very corroded; these hayward exchangers seem to fail frequently. I monitor my chemistry very carefully and it rarely gets out of whack by much, and never for any length of time. But if I was going to try to fix it I would need to have a functional bypass. I'd happily fabricate something if I could find fittings that would connect to the pipes.

John
 
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