Burned Pentair IntelliPH connector and IC40 not communicating.

[deeMo]

I have a Pentaire Easy Touch Control System connected to Intelliflo pump, IC40 SWG and Intelliph acid dispenser. Overall system is 7 years old but the IC40 and IntelliPH board were replaced 2 years ago.

Yesterday I noticed on my ScreenLogic App that the IC40 had lost communication. The IntelliPH showed a red light and the IntelliPH would not dispense acid even when trying manually.

All lights on the IC40 were functioning properly and it was generating chlorine. Of course, I could only change chlorine output by pushing the buttons on the SWG.

I bypassed the Intelliph and plugged the IC40 directly into the Easy Touch control panel. Again, communication failure.

I then decided to take a look at the Intelliph board. Sure enough, there was a slight burn mark on the connector from the SWG. This happened to me two years ago and I had to replace the SWG and the board in the Intelliph. Fortunately the SWG was under warranty but the Intelliph board was not ($350). This time nothing is under warranty.

My question is, do you think the Intelliph is damaging IC40s? I like having the acid dispenser but I can certainly add my own acid if this is going to be an every two year problem. Or, should I replace the Intelliph board and hope it was just a rare defect? Thanks all.

 

[ajw22]

This seems to be a common problem with the IntellipH and IntelliChlor. Read Pentair Intelliph - Further Reading for links to some of the prior threads.

@Dirk should by along soon to discuss your specific problems and how you can modify your iPh to bypass the problem area.

 

[deeMo]

Thanks, yes I have been keeping up with Dirk's posts. I did another bypass of the IntelliPH this morning and maybe for 5 minutes I had communication of chlorine level and PPM. Thought I had it figured out but then it went back to communication lost. Very frustrating as this can get very costly.

 

[Dirk]

90% of all such problems are in the cabling. 100% of that statistic I just made up (though I'd bet it's close)! But seriously, if it's cutting in and out, as opposed to "gone for good," that might indicate a connector or cable issue.

If you've been following my IntellipH (IpH) antics, you probably already know how to fix your IpH. I'll share if not.

And you followed the basic troubleshooting step of bypassing the IpH and connecting the IntelliChlor (IC) directly to your EasyTouch (ET). The fact that the IC was losing connection after that points to the IC or its cabling. Since the IC did come back for a bit, and I think you said if works on its own, that leans towards the cabling, probably the green or white buss wires. The red and black wires carry power to the IC, so if the IC is working on its own, then it's getting power.

Job 1 is to pull the connector apart again and do what you can to clean both the male and female pins/receptacles inside the connector. And that is not easy, but you do what you can. Scratch at them, abrade them as best you can. You're looking for and eradicating any sort of dirt or corrosion. Then coat everything with something like this:

Amazon.com

and see if that helps. I use that now on any cable connectors that live outside (all my pool stuff, my cams, etc).

Inside the ET, and going to the ScreenLogic module, there will be wires and connectors that could be in play (red, black, yellow/white, and green). Anywhere you see that combo of four there will be connectors to circuit boards. It could be corrosion or a loose connection. Resolve all those (disassemble, clean, reassemble, etc). We've seen ants cause problems on circuit boards. Animals (dogs, rodents, etc) have been known to chew wires. Inspect all wires you can get at.

That's where I'd start. Be sure to cut all power to your ET, and your entire pad for that matter, before disconnecting or reconnecting anything, or any sort of poking around. The ET and its associated devices are not "hot swappable," you have to power everything down to protect all the devices and their circuit boards.

 

[deeMo]

Great advice Dirk! I started yesterday doing exactly what you are advising. I work on vintage Honda motorcycles and of course I've chased my fair share of electric gremlins and already have that exact tube of dielectric grease. I didn't think about using that in this application but will. Thank you for reminding me.

I've loosened and tightened down every little wire in the block. I've noticed there is a short wire harness from the bottom of the EasyTouch up to the SWG board in the upper right. I'm wondering if I can find a new harness and replace the old one. I really hate the way these things connect with those plastic screw collars.

In 7 years, I've gone through four IC40s. Three were replaced under warranty. I can't help but think the Intelliph is the culprit? Your thought?

 

[Dirk]

We don't have any direct knowledge about the IntellipH causing the IC to fail permanently. There is the problem of the IC failing due to the burned connector inside the IpH controller, but that doesn't fry the IC, just keeps it from getting power. Replacing (or fixing) the IpH restores the IC function. It's possible your ICs were replaced because of the IpH issue, but they weren't actually bad.

We just had another guy with both a bad IC and the burned IpH connector. I assumed that was just a bad coincidence, but now you're having the same issue. So that's a data point, for what it's worth.

By the way, if you're noticing a burn on that IpH connector, but it's still working, it won't be for long. So regardless of how you resolve the IC issue, you should fix the IpH now.

I suppose if the burned connector on the IpH, which I theorize is being caused by corrosion on the pins of that connector, is delivering intermittent or otherwise degraded power to the IC, that could cause havoc, even permanent damage, to the IC. When the IpH connector fails 100%, and severs power to the IC, then the IC is "safe." But if the IpH connector is just starting to go, and sending less or intermitent voltage to the IC, that could definitely destroy the IC circuitry, much like a power company brown out would destroy electronic devices in your home.

So continue the sleuthing on the wires and connections. But fix the IpH, too. You mentioned tightening screws. I would take the extra step of pulling the wires, and either polishing them shiny, or re-stripping them. Just tightening wouldn't necessarily shed problematic corrosion.

I would set aside the IpH for now, and add acid manually for a while. Solve the IC problem first, then reintroduce the "fixed" IpH. That will focus the troubleshooting and eliminate, for now, the possibility that you have more than one problem in more than one device.