Building Pool this spring

[mccurdyp]

Hi All. I am a newby pool owner, planning on constructing a 10 x 20 x 4 to 5 ft pool, in our home in Trujillo, Honduras. I will be hiring the labor and probably get some help with the electrical, but mostly I will be supervising construction myself.
Some of the equipment I will bring down from the States e.g. SWG, valves, timer, lights, surge protector, while the rest e.g. pump/filter, piping, other parts, construction materials (including quartz finish & tiles for top) I can purchase there. My signature contains the items/brands I have on order so far.
So I would appreciate any advice & suggestions you can provide. I put together a plumbing diagram (attached) that in particular I would like comments on. Sorry it's hand drawn so hope it's readable.
Looking forward to learning lots on this website, and contributing if I can

 

[kimkats]

The only thing I would change is putting the two sets of returns on different valves. That will allow you to control in output as wanted/needed.

What kind of valves are you planning on using?

Kim

 

[Jimrahbe]

Mc,

There is no reason to have a check valve between the SWCG and the filter.. It is just not needed.

I am not a fan of ball valves, so I would use a Jandy three way to select between the Skimmer and the Main Drain. In normal operation you would use 90% skimmer and 10% main drain. Then use the three way in front of the pump to select between the vac and the skimmer/main drain three way. In normal operation your would be zero vac and all skimmer/main drain. Eliminates the ball valves and gives you much better control.

What you have on the return lines will work, but a better way is to run a loop around the whole pool and then from this loop run your return lines into the pool.. Only cost a few more dollars for the PVC.

I would never install a pump without unions, so you are right on target there.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mccurdyp]

Mc,

There is no reason to have a check valve between the SWCG and the filter.. It is just not needed.

I am not a fan of ball valves, so I would use a Jandy three way to select between the Skimmer and the Main Drain. In normal operation you would use 90% skimmer and 10% main drain. Then use the three way in front of the pump to select between the vac and the skimmer/main drain three way. In normal operation your would be zero vac and all skimmer/main drain. Eliminates the ball valves and gives you much better control.

What you have on the return lines will work, but a better way is to run a loop around the whole pool and then from this loop run your return lines into the pool.. Only cost a few more dollars for the PVC.

I would never install a pump without unions, so you are right on target there.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I found this on Amazon: "Jandy 4715 3-Port 1-1/2 to 2-Inch Positive Seal NeverLube Valve" which I assume is valve you meant? And to confirm: 1) on

 

[mccurdyp]

The only thing I would change is putting the two sets of returns on different valves. That will allow you to control in output as wanted/needed.

What kind of valves are you planning on using?

Kim

What kind of valves do you recommend? As Jimrahbe recommended I will eliminate the 3 valves on input side as the diverter should control everything

 

[mccurdyp]

What kind of valves do you recommend? As Jimrahbe recommended I will eliminate the 3 valves on input side as the diverter should control everything

@Jimrahbe also recommended running return all around the pool. But it might be nice to be able to control the 2 sides of the pool differently, so maybe better to run 2 lines as I drew, but with a diverter or 2 valves to control flow. And maybe the diverter is better option so I don't accidently create too much back pressure if both were closed.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Mc,

Jandy never lube should be perfect..

It it not a big deal one way or the other on the return lines.. Running the lines around the whole pool in a loop, basically guarantees that all the returns will have the same pressure. Again, it is not a major issue one way or the other.. Most people just adjust the size of the eyeball openings to control the output of each return line.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mccurdyp]

Mc,

Jandy never lube should be perfect..

It it not a big deal one way or the other on the return lines.. Running the lines around the whole pool in a loop, basically guarantees that all the returns will have the same pressure. Again, it is not a major issue one way or the other.. Most people just adjust the size of the eyeball openings to control the output of each return line.

Thanks,

Jim R.

"adjust the size of the eyeball openings." duh...of course!

 

[mccurdyp]

I have re-done my plumbing (& wiring) diagram using the recommendations from @Jimrahbe & @kimkats plus Nelso at JVP pool supply in La Ceiba, Honduras. Please see attached.
Does this look better? Appreciate any other comments. I'm getting ready to order the parts I need to take down

 

[Pv2]

don't know if you have time, but you should get one of the test kits recommended here, the one in your signature won't let you measure chlorine accurately or CYA levels. these two are really important for a trouble free pool. Test Kits Compared - Trouble Free Pool

 

[Jimrahbe]

Mc,

This is what I meant..




This is how I would do it.. That does not mean I am right.. In your pic you can never shut the vac off without shutting off the skimmer.. Not a great idea in my mind. The idea of a loop is so that the pressure at each return is about the same.. With your idea the last return would have really low pressure. Unless you'v got a 50 HP pump you don't need a by pass for the SWCG. I see no need to have two valves in front of the pump, just use the three way valve if you want to shut it off.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mccurdyp]

Mc,

This is what I meant..


View attachment 124700

This is how I would do it.. That does not mean I am right.. In your pic you can never shut the vac off without shutting off the skimmer.. Not a great idea in my mind. The idea of a loop is so that the pressure at each return is about the same.. With your idea the last return would have really low pressure. Unless you'v got a 50 HP pump you don't need a by pass for the SWCG. I see no need to have two valves in front of the pump, just use the three way valve if you want to shut it off.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for input Jim. I didn't realize the Jandy can be set so there's no flow through. Cool!
I believe the idea behind the SWG bypass - as recommended by our dealer in Honduras - is when we're away we can shut the SWG off, cover the pool, set the pump to come out only a couple of times a week, and have our gardener throw in a handful of chlorine each week. We'd like to save electric costs for the 5-6 months we're away.
The last valve to jets is not needed? Again, I'm assuming it was added to eliminate back flow if pump is off and/or when draining the pool. But if we leave the Jandy near SWG as shown, we can turn it so there is no flow in or out since I now know this can be done

 

[mccurdyp]

don't know if you have time, but you should get one of the test kits recommended here, the one in your signature won't let you measure chlorine accurately or CYA levels. these two are really important for a trouble free pool. Test Kits Compared - Trouble Free Pool

OK, I ordered the Taylor K-2006C + their K1766 for salt water. Thanks!