building new pool; questions on Stenner pump install

gle123

Member
Oct 17, 2019
16
Houston Texas
New to TFP, a lot of really good info on here. Currently building a pool in Cypress Texas., ~12,500gal, + ~500+gal spa. Chlorine. definitely want to follow TFP and use liquid chlorine; wanting to install Stenner pump and tank, a few questions.
1. Anyone ever had a pool builder install this for them? I am still pretty early on., plumbing and electrical have not started yet, thinking if I buy this I could have electrician/plumber set it up.
2. Was looking at 7.5gal tank combo 3gpd fixed rate 25psig stenner pump. Anyone see any reason that set up would not work well for ~13000gal pool based on my preliminary look I would say I would maybe use around 30-40oz of 8.25% per day. Pump would run maybe 2 to 2.5hours a day for those rates which I am good with. see no reason the 25psig would not work as pool return pressure should be well below this correct? see some use the 100psi model curious why.
3. Does most pool electrical run 240v or 120v? would the 120v stenner be ok, if i want to wire into pentair intellicenter relay for control etc. obviously this is where i would have electrician set this up for me, just not sure if it would have to be a 120 or 240 at this point.
4. Assume if i had the plumber add a 1/4" female threaded connection in the return that would be all i need from them and very easy for them to do this if i tell them.

thanks to all with any info or additional info you can provide.
 
gle,

I see no reason your pool builder could not install the Stenner for you. The IntelliCenter can supply either 240 or 120 to the Stenner through a relay so either would work. I would use a 120 volts input to the Stenner as you could just add an 120 volt outlet near the Stenner and have the outlet controlled by the automation.

Personally, I would go saltwater as you never have to buy chlorine. I have three saltwater pools and they have worked flawlessly for 10, 7, and 6 years. By far the easiest pool care ever.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I don't see why the pool contractor can't plumb the 1/4" inlet in for you, especially if you provided the t-fitting and 1/4" screw in during the plumbing job. I also agree with Jim, and did the same for my automation... I just wired a 120V outlet thats controlled by the box and plug the stenner into it. Its flexible and just plug and play when/ if you ever need to change out your stenner pump. Also being in your neck of the woods, depending on amount of sun your pool may get... your bleach use estimate might be on the low side. As far as the psi rating, I don't recall the reasons behind why it was recommended to use 100 psi, other than if you were trying to inject when the pump was running at full which might be at or above 25 psi potentially? I love my stenner after running it for a couple years now, but like Jim said, salt is the way to go as I'm getting tired of the jugs and hunting down the 10% bleach.
 
I think the idea behind running the 100 psi version was to prevent loss of injection flow if your water pressure was ever above 25 psi. Also, I started with the 100 psi 5 gpd tube and quickly replaced it with a 22 gpd tube. Having the Stenner run for hours is pointless. Get the chloride in quick and be done. Fine tuning the volume of injection down to the second is for individuals with too much time on their hands. Then it's cloudy or raining the next day and it's back to square one. Motors and tubes are wear items, the more it turns, the quicker you will have to replace them.
- fyi I use 65oz. of 6% bleach per day in the summer in DFW for my 27k gal pool.
 
Thanks for all the replies., have purchased the 120v 100psi stenner and 7.5gal tank. going to have electricians wire it up to intellicenter, likely through a gfi plug into relay etc. asked pool builder to add 1/4" npt but plumbers had already started and were moving quick and they didnt get it in,, going to have them drill/thread the return somewhere to add the threaded connection, should I have them add thread connection upstream or down stream of the rainbow Chlorinator they put in, probably does not matter either way; went with the 3gpd pump., will see how it goes., pool 13000gal, so half your size 98 so lets say i use ~35oz/day on average, stenner would run around 2hrs/day. was also thinking i might use 8.25% bleach so might be a little less if i use 8.25. let you guys know how it goes....
 
If you are keeping the trichlor feeder, put the liquid chlorine injection point well downstream. The two do not mix well.
 
Ok, few more questions on this. pool has been done since early March; got electrical hooked up for this by electrician GFI plug wired to aux 5; and while the pool builder did a good job overall, they never got the plumber back out to help me install a threaded connection for injector install. So last week they did bring me an install kit that allows you to tap the pipe; worm gear clamps hold in place the 1/2" threaded connection etc, with compression type oring that seals. I can do this myself not problem. however, this kit can only fit on PVC pipe, and not the fittings as the fittings are slightly larger diameter. I have a limited amount of actual pipe to attach this to as many of my surface area in return section are fittings. I have a spot on pool return line i could do this on, but its in the vertical, not a big deal, but the install area is a little tight. but my real question is I also have plenty of pipe to install this upstream of the tab chlorinator, which is also upstream of the discharge check valve from the heater that i could add it on top of the pipe(much easier install and space to work here). but like I said it would then be upstream of the check valve; downstream of the heater, so possible that could run liquid chlorine back through the heater, but that would only happen if my pool pump was not running, which I of course would never intend to do. any of you see a problem with injecting chlorine in that section of pipe; could this cause a problem ever in the heater or other? Thanks...
 
Just a thought, but my Pentair rainbow puck thing has a 1/2" NPT pipe fitting in the side of the diverter tee. I just removed the black hose and dial adjuster from the puck feeder capped the fitting in the puck cylinder and screwed my Stenner nozzle into the diverter tee. Works great and is easily reversible. Of course it may not work if you have a different model other than the Rainbow 320.
 
Yep, i have the same feeder I think. so maybe thats what i should do then... so that 1/2" fitting on the side goes right back into open pipe then i guess. first i was not sure if there was something in the pipe there on that feeder, second, I figured I would keep the feeder intact in case i ever needed to use pucks for some reason, but i have no intention of using pucks ever(and as you say it is reversible if needed). my only negative on this is that connection is on the open side of my install, on the walking side, and it is very tight between my equipment and my fence, just a potential for someone to run into it and possibly damage the injector or fitting. I will take a closer look at it. Thanks for the info 98.

Any other thoughts on my previous question from anyone else welcome; but hopefully I will just end up using that 1/2" on the feeder. I honestly really do not want to have to tap/drill the PVC even though that is really not a big deal and is done all the time.
 
Putting your Stenner liquid chlorine feed directly into your Trichlor tablet feeder or even before it is very dangerous. If a high concentration of liquid chlorine meets a trichlor tablet an explosion can occur. Please do not do this.
 

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MK, Yes I understand the concern, I know that is very dangerous to mix those two chlorine sources, If i do install like this I would absolutely never have a puck in the feeder; i do not plan on using pucks, and do not even have any available to use at the house. 98, you saying you put a PVC tube in just to protect you from some how ever putting pucks in correct? how did you install that? You did not have to do any modification of the feeder for the liquid injector to work other than plugging that top outlet right?
 
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