Excellent advice. I have brushed the pool 2-4 times per day, and there is a lot of dirt both from the plaster, but also the dry ground around the pool... sod going in today, so that should help.
Thanks for the input Dirk
Building in Georgia Drone PICS
- Thread starter propjetprop
- Start date
Excellent advice. I have brushed the pool 2-4 times per day, and there is a lot of dirt both from the plaster, but also the dry ground around the pool... sod going in today, so that should help.
Thanks for the input Dirk
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,836
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK, so if you're getting dust to puff up while brushing, or flat out can see it on the bottom, I'm going to ramp up the preaching a notch. This is exactly what happened to the "other guy" I referred to in my other post. He's now got stains on his brand new finish, that are not going away after a month (and aren't going to, I'm sad to day). Yard debris got in his pool, and everybody just kinda stood around and let it happen.
I'm having this same conversation in multiple threads, so, sorry, I'm losing track of what I wrote where! The brushing suspends the dust and dirt into the water column. But it's the filter that takes it out of the pool. If you're not running your pump 24/7, then it's just going to float back to the bottom, and stick and stain there. It's going to do that anyway to some extent, even with the pump blasting, which is why you have to keep brushing and brushing until you eventually get it all. Brushing alone will help, but not necessarily solve for this. You have to get that pump running full time and suck out the dust. And don't be stingy with the RPMs. You've got a brand new VS pump, super energy efficient, crank it up. The few extra bucks for electricity are nothing compared to a nasty stain in your brand new pool. Unless the PB can specifically site why running your water through a filter 24/7 is somehow harmful (which he can't), then who cares if he rolls his eyes at you, and for that matter who cares if I'm right or wrong, better safe than sorry (waaaay better)...
I never saw a single puff of dust off my new finish. I brushed twice a day anyway, and ran my pump on medium for weeks.
I'm having this same conversation in multiple threads, so, sorry, I'm losing track of what I wrote where! The brushing suspends the dust and dirt into the water column. But it's the filter that takes it out of the pool. If you're not running your pump 24/7, then it's just going to float back to the bottom, and stick and stain there. It's going to do that anyway to some extent, even with the pump blasting, which is why you have to keep brushing and brushing until you eventually get it all. Brushing alone will help, but not necessarily solve for this. You have to get that pump running full time and suck out the dust. And don't be stingy with the RPMs. You've got a brand new VS pump, super energy efficient, crank it up. The few extra bucks for electricity are nothing compared to a nasty stain in your brand new pool. Unless the PB can specifically site why running your water through a filter 24/7 is somehow harmful (which he can't), then who cares if he rolls his eyes at you, and for that matter who cares if I'm right or wrong, better safe than sorry (waaaay better)...
I never saw a single puff of dust off my new finish. I brushed twice a day anyway, and ran my pump on medium for weeks.
- Apr 23, 2017
- 2,400
- Pool Size
- 22000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
24/7
Here is what I am working with... I do not have an app yet, I have been briefed on nothing... Can anyone tell me how to turn the pump on to run 24/7?
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,836
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sorry, all Pentair here. I would first ask the PB to do it, like today. If you get a no, and if no one else here chimes in, I would download the manual from the 'net and see if altering the schedule is something you can figure out. That's what you're looking for. The start and stop times for the filter run. Leave the start time alone, and just advance the stop time to just before the start time, like a minute before. (There's probably several ways to keep the pump on, that's one.) You also can check on the RPMs too, in one of the other settings screens. If that doesn't work, start a new thread here with just that question and see if that gets you someone in the know.
Ideally, you'd ask the question of the PB in an email, then get his response back in writing. If he says "Yes, I'll be right over," great. Or if he says you can do it, even better. I know it's ugly to go there, but like the filtering, you're just playin' it safe. You just don't want to give him any ammo, as in, "Why did you mess with the schedule? Now it's all your fault." Or whatever. That is all far-fetched, just sayin' that if you can get it in writing that you have "permission" to up the filter time, then you're good-to-go!
Ideally, you'd ask the question of the PB in an email, then get his response back in writing. If he says "Yes, I'll be right over," great. Or if he says you can do it, even better. I know it's ugly to go there, but like the filtering, you're just playin' it safe. You just don't want to give him any ammo, as in, "Why did you mess with the schedule? Now it's all your fault." Or whatever. That is all far-fetched, just sayin' that if you can get it in writing that you have "permission" to up the filter time, then you're good-to-go!
Youtube your make and model to see how it works. Our pool builder seems like he will do some things differently to TFP too, but the pump will be running 24/7 for our start up and I will need to brush 4 times a day. I think these are important steps. Once you figure out how to manually override your pump, run it non stop then just put it back into the auto mode he’s set up when you know he’s coming. If you are seen by your pb to go against what he is doing your warranty will be void. I am letting my pb do his thing, but he seems a bit more on the ball than yours unfortunately.
I have similar equipment but my pool is still under construction. I did read the manual though....
I believe that leftmost button on the main panel will switch between 'Auto', 'Service', and 'Time Out'. You should be able to put it into service and ensure the light under 'Filter Pump' is on (and press the button if it is not).
Again, my equipment isn't even running yet, so don't take my word for it. And Dirk's idea of trying to get the builder to agree sounds like a good one.
The installation manual (here) talks about the different operating modes (page 36). Give it a read and see what you think.
Talked to PB today... He agrees the pump should be running more, he is coming out tomorrow to fix and brief me on operation!
- - - Updated - - -
DJI Mavic pro or Air... both amazing drones! Have a small business I use them for with real estate, but mostly for pleasure!
- - - Updated - - -
DJI Mavic pro or Air... both amazing drones! Have a small business I use them for with real estate, but mostly for pleasure!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,836
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Perfect! Maybe try something like this:
"Hey, I'd really like to play it safe and run the pump non-stop. I don't mind the extra electricity bill. I'd just feel better about it. Can you show me how to do that? And then how to dial it back down later, if I change my mind?"
That might be a little "save face" for him if he doesn't agree or see the need for 24/7, but in essence still be him giving you permission to run it full time. (Especially if he pushes the buttons!)
I just don't understand why he didn't already have it running. I know nothing about pools, but the fact he is coming over now to fix it makes me wonder?! My PB is the same way. I constantly have to stay on top of him and I am thankful for all you guys here at TFP. He told me the pool was fine for swimming as soon as it was full and never mentioned anything about brushing it... when I asked him he said "yea you can brush it if you want, it will help the aggregate color come out faster".... All he specifically said (that I read here first) is that we could not add salt for 30 days. I asked him how you keep the algae out and he said they add chlorine to start up but to please take a water sample to pinch a penny ( a local pool store here) for water analysis....Your pool is beautiful by the way!
Looking Great!!! I love the bar stools too
Who is going to stain that HUGE wooden Fence??????
Who is going to stain that HUGE wooden Fence??????Video I put together from the drone footage over the last 5 months...
Filice Pool Timeline Unfinished - YouTube
Filice Pool Timeline Unfinished - YouTube
Cool video. I need to get a "real" quadcopter one of these days. (I have the "toy" ones and they are fun.)
That's a lot of sod!
That's a lot of sod!
Thanks!!! Way more sod than I wanted... Original plan was for 6 pallets, then the dude that was supposed to take all the dig dirt away asked if I wanted the back back yard level... I said yes...LOL... 8 more pallets of sod!!! OMG Small investment for the future... I am happy with the result...
Side note... rain is great for the new sod! but SLOWS DOWN finishing the fence, deck and porch... Although the pool water was getting low, and the rain took care of that... LOVE HATE relationship with the WX right now
DJI Mavic Pro and DJI Mavic Air... hands down the best aerial platforms out there!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,836
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hey DIRK!!! I took over the pool.... PB came out and gave me a jv brief on the iaqualink so I can control the VS pump... I put in 1 gallon of liquid chlorine and 1 gallon of CYA stabilizer.. My readings are good bro!!
FC - 4.2
CC - 0
PH -7.6
TA - 70
CH - 100
CYA - 40
You and everyone on this forum are Amazing... I would have never known where to start based on ignorance and new PB lack of handoff. I am sooooooooooo appreciative of your advice, this sight and the active members!
FC - 4.2
CC - 0
PH -7.6
TA - 70
CH - 100
CYA - 40
You and everyone on this forum are Amazing... I would have never known where to start based on ignorance and new PB lack of handoff. I am sooooooooooo appreciative of your advice, this sight and the active members!
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,836
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Congrat's on taking over the pool!! I try to limit my contributions to hair-brained schemes, and leave the chemistry to the TFP Experts. Your numbers do look good, but I don't like that CH for a brand new plaster pool. Hopefully an Expert will be along to advise. They're going to ask about your test kit. Did you mention it anywhere? They like to see it spec'd in your signature, so they know what they're dealing with when you post numbers.
Are you using PoolMath? What is your CSI? That's an important index to monitor for plaster, especially new plaster. The number is indicative of whether your water will tend to scale up your plaster, or suck calcium out of it (low CH, and low CSI, can be an issue for the health of the plaster). You need to enter temp, too, as that plays a big part in the CSI calculation.
Are you using PoolMath? What is your CSI? That's an important index to monitor for plaster, especially new plaster. The number is indicative of whether your water will tend to scale up your plaster, or suck calcium out of it (low CH, and low CSI, can be an issue for the health of the plaster). You need to enter temp, too, as that plays a big part in the CSI calculation.
Checked CSI today... it was -.3 maybe a bit lower on the wiz wheel... ugggg..... I cant win one battle.... Guide on back of wiz wheel says a saturation of -0.3 or lower could be corrosive... not great.... The wiz wheel has no guidance how to correct this!!!! All based on water temp from the iAqualink..... taken with a Grain of salt (pun intended)
I use the Taylor 2006c and have a thread going in the chem section of the forum...
Yes.. using pool math
I use the Taylor 2006c and have a thread going in the chem section of the forum...
Yes.. using pool math
- Nov 12, 2017
- 11,836
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I like the Taylor kit. I have the little one (without the C). If you've got another thread going, then you can ask about CSI and your CH over there. No need to have two conversations about it. But you're not so out of whack, at all, so no need to panic! Just something to adjust a bit.
When you talk about "wiz wheel," are you getting CSI from that, or Pool Math? And if it's from that little gizmo that comes with a Taylor kit, I don't know what that is. They call it Saturation Index, which is serving the same purpose, but it's not clear if that calculator is based on LSI or CSI. It's my understanding that LSI was originally developed for something else (big water main pipes, I think), and adopted by the pool industry because that was all there was. CSI was later refined from LSI to be more about swimming pools. Sorry, I'm a little fuzzy on that. No matter. Point is: in discussing CSI, you should use the calculations derived from Pool Math, not Taylor's wheel, so that you and the TFP Experts helping you are talking apples-apples... And Pool Math has a built-in CSI calculator that is much easier than that wheel.
You're doing great. You're here, at TFP, you're taking over your pool, and learning how to take care of it yourself. That puts you in the 98th percentile, and way better off than others who use pool guys and pool stores!
When you talk about "wiz wheel," are you getting CSI from that, or Pool Math? And if it's from that little gizmo that comes with a Taylor kit, I don't know what that is. They call it Saturation Index, which is serving the same purpose, but it's not clear if that calculator is based on LSI or CSI. It's my understanding that LSI was originally developed for something else (big water main pipes, I think), and adopted by the pool industry because that was all there was. CSI was later refined from LSI to be more about swimming pools. Sorry, I'm a little fuzzy on that. No matter. Point is: in discussing CSI, you should use the calculations derived from Pool Math, not Taylor's wheel, so that you and the TFP Experts helping you are talking apples-apples... And Pool Math has a built-in CSI calculator that is much easier than that wheel.
You're doing great. You're here, at TFP, you're taking over your pool, and learning how to take care of it yourself. That puts you in the 98th percentile, and way better off than others who use pool guys and pool stores!
