Hi TFP,
My 2008 Jacuzzi J480 was left for an extended period due to family RV activity, and when I got to it, it had leaked a little water but it was enough to take the level below the filter input.
I suspect the circ pump this ran dry.
Upon trouble shooting, I've found that I can only get the breaker to stay on if the circ pump and heater are disconnected.
If the circ pump is disconnected but the heater left in circuit, the breaker stays on for several seconds then trips. I suspect this may be because its own thermal overload protection is cutting in, and the heater may be OK.
The heater measures 9-10 ohms, which I read is the normal reading for an undamaged unit.
The circ pump measures 38-ish ohms, which is identical to the old still functioning circ pump I took off and replaced a few years ago.
I am confused.
My trouble shooting points to the circ pump being the cause of the breaker tripping. But it gives normal resistance readings, so seems to say it's OK.
How can a circ pump give normal resistance readings yet cause the main breaker to trip?
I thought it took a short circuit to throw a breaker, i.e. 0 ohms, which would confirm my suspicions that the pump is toast. But a normal resistance. ?
I'm reluctant to buy a new circ pump at $200 when my current one seems to show no electrical issues.
How can I test the circ pump to confirm it's malfunctioning and causing the breaker to trip?
Could there be something damaged on the main control circuit board?
There are 3 fuses on there, but all are intact.
I've also find that the slight leak has caused some wood mould on the base board inside the 'machine room'.
Is the best way to deal with this is to open up a number of the side skirt panels and place a fan heater in there, ventilating the area and blowing hot air over it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
Regards,
Daf-T
My 2008 Jacuzzi J480 was left for an extended period due to family RV activity, and when I got to it, it had leaked a little water but it was enough to take the level below the filter input.
I suspect the circ pump this ran dry.
Upon trouble shooting, I've found that I can only get the breaker to stay on if the circ pump and heater are disconnected.
If the circ pump is disconnected but the heater left in circuit, the breaker stays on for several seconds then trips. I suspect this may be because its own thermal overload protection is cutting in, and the heater may be OK.
The heater measures 9-10 ohms, which I read is the normal reading for an undamaged unit.
The circ pump measures 38-ish ohms, which is identical to the old still functioning circ pump I took off and replaced a few years ago.
I am confused.
My trouble shooting points to the circ pump being the cause of the breaker tripping. But it gives normal resistance readings, so seems to say it's OK.
How can a circ pump give normal resistance readings yet cause the main breaker to trip?
I thought it took a short circuit to throw a breaker, i.e. 0 ohms, which would confirm my suspicions that the pump is toast. But a normal resistance. ?
I'm reluctant to buy a new circ pump at $200 when my current one seems to show no electrical issues.
How can I test the circ pump to confirm it's malfunctioning and causing the breaker to trip?
Could there be something damaged on the main control circuit board?
There are 3 fuses on there, but all are intact.
I've also find that the slight leak has caused some wood mould on the base board inside the 'machine room'.
Is the best way to deal with this is to open up a number of the side skirt panels and place a fan heater in there, ventilating the area and blowing hot air over it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you.
Regards,
Daf-T