Brandy new.

njguy227

New member
May 16, 2023
3
North Jersey
Pool Size
40000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
...like literally, brand new.

Hey TFP folks,

I was recommended by a coworker to this site, and it's been an absolute lifesaver. I even purchased a subscription for Pool Math as well!

I want to apologize for the following essay, but I want to list as many facts as possible so I can get sound advice and not to waste money.

A little background, this is my first time owning pool, but I'm not a complete newbie. I used to help my buddy with his pool cleaning chores when I was a kid. He had a cartridge system.

As shown in my half-completed bio, I have a DE filter for what I calculated as an approximately 23,000 gallon pool.

The previous owners left all of last year's fall in the pool when they closed it last season, as well as utilizing a mesh cover. The pool was a very dark green. We utilized a local company to open.

I'm learning a lot as I go along. DE filtration was completely foreign to me. The guys who opened barely explained the filter to me. They basically left me with the idea that the DE would capture onto the algae and settle to the bottom of the pool, where a vacuum would pick it up the DE/Algae mess. They also barely showed me how to backwash the filter, or when to backwash. They did hose down the grid, at least. The clean pressure at the filter is what I assume to be 20 PSI. The max pressure per the manufacturer is 50 PSI.

They also didn't properly open the valves, as I spent an hour on the phone with the owner of the company trying to diagnose the issue of no pressure. The handles are broken and require channel locks. I can only assume that because they came back early the next morning and the valves were in different positions.

The previous owner threw away the cartridges and filters for the Nautilus CC Pro, and I'm (very impatiently) waiting for them to arrive from Pool Zoom. I was also left with a skimmer net and pool brush that broke day 1, and a partially taped pool hose. He did leave me with a few bags of DE, a full bucket of Trichlor tabs, pool algae treatment and some other unknown stuff, although there is a koi pond on the property and is possibly for that (which also has its own set of issues). Every day is something else with this pool, with surprises I was left with, and I've long lost my patience. I know where he works and currently lives, and every new surprise makes me want to go down to his business and give him a piece of my mind.

Over the last few days, I've noticed the flow through the pool equipment becomes what I can best describe as "neutral". There's no negative pressure at the skimmer, and no positive pressure coming from the jets. The pressure at the filter drops to 10%. A rinse and backwash solves the problem. since I backwash, I need to add full DE, per pool company. I add about 4.5 pounds per manufacturer recommendation. Again, this has been almost daily. Important to note, there is a oak dropping it's catkins, a lot got into my pool/skimmer.

The "neutral" pressure is repeatable when I try to manually vacuum the bottom of the pool floor by connecting to the skimmer.

The only thing I have at the moment that's helping is the leaf eater I got at Home Depot. The pool is about 80% there, blueish with a bit of cloudiness. I still cannot see the bottom of the deep end to clean whatever is still down there (8 feet). I need those Dang robot parts! I've been SLAMing and backwashing almost everyday, which receives the lack of pressure issue. I'm out of DE and need to pick up some tomorrow. I test, and I'm currently utilizing TriChlor pucks and a bottle of 10% bleach almost daily. My Taylor test shows I have no CYA, .8 FC, 3.8 CC and I'm overwhelmed at Walmart with endless choices trying to find the right stuff to put in.

I feel like that until I can get the cleaning of the bottom of the pool issue handled, I am just keeping the algae at bay with the trichlor tabs and a bottle of 10% bleach every other day until I am fully set up instead of throwing good money for nothing.

So, with this all laid out, I have a few questions.

1) should I be backwashing this much?

2) the pool company told me my filter system needs to be replaced, due to the 20% reading and estimated a $2000 job. I have a sneaky feeling they may be trying to sell me something I don't need. I do eventually want to switch to SWG (quoted at $2000), but I get the feeling they're trying to pull a fast one because they didn't correct me when I incorrectly estimated that it was going to be a $6000 job (a filter replacement this year, SWG next year not realizing the two systems are separate and not $2000 this year and $2000 x 2 next year.) I do have a plumber for a FIL, who offered to help do the work. Again, The clean pressure at the filter is what I assume to be 20 PSI. The max pressure per the manufacturer is 50 PSI. The highest I got it was around 27 PSI.

3) I'm counting on having the pool opened by Memorial Day weekend because my wife invited everyone she knows for a weekend bash before we even closed on the house. Should I continue SLAM or should I just hold what I have with the pucks until everything is in place? Again, I don't want to be throwing good money away for nothing until I can clean the bottom of the pool.

4) the pump has been running almost a week straight at this point. There's no variable speed, just on/off. Are there any issues with that?

I definitely have more questions, but I think this is enough.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and reply!
 
Hi, and welcome to TFP! Quite a story, but you've come to the right place. Others here can sort you out, but I'll get you started with your first two must-do chores. Everyone here will tell you the exact same thing. I've only got a second tonight, so here's the short version.

1. Go here and fill in your signature. As much like mine as you can, the more info the better. Do it right now, please.

2. Go here and buy a proper test kit. Get it ordered tonight. There's almost nothing we can help you with without proper test results, and based on the results you gave us so far, either you don't have a proper kit, or you're not using it correctly. We can't help you with test strip results, or pool store test results. You MUST own and use a proper kit, and we consider there only exists two of those. Pick one, and order it TONIGHT. Get a SpeedStir device (you'll wonder why, but thank me later, I swear). If you can't decide based on that link, order a TF-Pro with SmartStir from here. Do it right now.

You're probably not performing a SLAM properly. Be sure to include in your signature the exact model of test kit you have already. While it's theoretically possible to have your pool ready in two weeks, be prepared for disappointment unless you get that kit in a day or two and steel yourself to work tirelessly at cleaning the pool. It won't be a hour-a-day task at first, but almost full time if you're serious about Memorial Day. Buckle up. And a gallon of bleach a day, or every other day(?), is nothing, you're not at all keeping algae "at bay" with that. Start by buying a few cases of bleach and stop using the tabs immediately.

More later...
 
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What @Dirk said ^^^^^^. I want to correct your calculation about you're 80% done which I'll interpret as, if you're lucky it's 20% done and 80% to the end. One word of advice, don't go to the pool store as I can assure you anything they tell you, sell you is at best going keep you @neutral but more then likely they're just emptying your wallet with no gain on your part. Before putting anything into your water ask so you don't make a detrimental mistake.
 
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Hi and welcome to TFP! You sure have come to the right place to get your pool clean and clear. We can also teach you how to do most everything to your pool and the equipment. Please stop using the pool service. As you have already figured out they are after your money and not looking out for you and your pool.

Steps to clearing your pool:
-Find TFP and post=done
-order a test kit
-buy lots of liquid chlorine (make sure to check the date code as it needs to be fresh)
-Keep using the leaf getter on the bottom of the pool to get as much of the organic stuff up and out as you can
-add a gallon of chlorine in your pool each early evening and turn the pump on recirculate to keep the water moving so the chlorine can kill the algae.

Once you get your test kit (see @Dirk 's link for the one that has the most regents you will be using for the SLAM) you can start the SLAM for real. See this link:
SLAM Process

If you do the SLAM you may be able to use the pool by Memorial Day. The more you test for FC and add chlorine the faster it will go.

With a DE filter you will be doing a LOT of filter cleaning. Have the DE ready for it. The high pressure and low water flow is telling you your filter is doing it's job and it is full and ready to be cleaned. That is why I say to run it on recirculate over night so the chlorine can do it's job killing the algae.

Take and share a pic of your pool as it stands now. Also take and share a pic of your equpment so we can help you learn it as well.

Good luck and keep asking questions!

Kim :kim:
 
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As the former DE filter girl, FIRST let me say do NOT EVER put full amount back after backwash maybe 3/4. On my old large one I used to recharge 4 out of 6 cups depending on how long I backwashed.

As a victim of previous homeowner nonsense, I can tell you that will stop getting surprised at the things you find. Mine was so bad we ended up remodeling the pool 😂😂
 
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As a victim of previous homeowner nonsense, I can tell you that will stop getting surprised at the things you find. Mine was so bad we ended up remodeling the pool
Same here, house and pool, so @njguy227, you are not alone! Realtors and sellers treat "full disclosure" as a mere suggestion! And as you have discovered, home inspectors are not qualified to analyze a swimming pool. Heck, they're hardly qualified to inspect a house! (Don't get me started!!)

No panic required, just yet. TFP methods will clean your pool and keep it that way. And save you a lot of money to boot!
 
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Hey, all. thanks for the replies! I updated my signature for what I know thus far. My pool is oddly shaped, sorta an elongated octagon, and not quite as deep along the sides. I am overestimating 40,000 gallon, with 444 inches by 325 inches if you make it a full rectangle. I was told it was 20,000 gallons from the previous owner, but I could have made that number up with everything else going on in my life. (I also got different numbers from different sites, including ChatGPT, who gave me different numbers despite giving it the same dimensions) Once I get everything under control I will probably do a chemical test do narrow that in.

The very first thing I bought at the advice of my coworker was the Taylor 2006C. Please see everything I have done thus far, with the test results. PoolMath Logs . I needed to get stabilizer to get my CYA numbers up, so my wife took a sample to the store while she was over there. The numbers were off from what my kit gave. My wife didn't feel pressured to buy anything from them and they gave her exactly what I needed, so I am not sure why those numbers would be off. That test result in in the above log, and should be easy to identify.

I do not have photos, however at the moment appearance the water is very blue, with a touch of cloudiness. For some reason there was a ton of sand at the bottom of the pool. So much I had to clean out the robot 5 times today, and backwashed twice within 24 hours. I do not live close enough to the beach for the amount of sand that was in there. Unless DE turns tan/black, grows and resembles sand, or something to do with the dead algae, I am convinced this is sand, and the robot is kicking up what is causing the cloudiness. Anyway, I got 99% of it up, the algae is gone, and the organic material is only what would normally get in between skims. It *looks* swimmable.

I couldn't get the stabilizer in yesterday, as I was still needing to backwash regularly, but I got it in this evening and dumped 4 gallons of chlorine in. It's supposed to rain tomorrow, so I hope the chlorine will stick with the UV index being very low (it's been low all week). I tried to dissolve as much of the stabilizer in a bucket to get as much on board immediately and to not stress the filter with the solids, but i have a strong feeling I'll need to backwash before everything dissolves. I'll probably need to find a liquid CYA somewhere to keep my chlorine from getting destroyed during the day.

Have I missed anything?


Update, This mornings test results:
------------------------------------------
Test Results 05-20-2023 @ 10:13 AM
------------------------------------------
Free Chlorine: 6.4
Combined Chlorine: 0.8
pH: 7.0
Total Alkalinity: 80
Calcium Hardness: 140
CYA: 15 (estimate, to low for dot to disappear)
 
Your water is still cloudy, right? I'm no help in the DE questions, but chemically you want to get your CYA up to 30 and continue the SLAM. The key is to maintain the FC at that SLAM level, which would be 12 with a CYA of 30.

For adding CYA use the sock method - put it in a sock and hang it front of the return. Give it a squeeze periodically.
 
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Paul has got you on the right track. You are NOT yet done with the SLAM. You should reread about it carefully. You've got cloudy water and a CC of 0.8, so you're failing two out of the three SLAM-is-over criteria. DO NOT get your CYA up over 30, as that will just cost you more SLAM chlorine.

As I hinted at previously, if you want to be ready to put people in your pool in 7 or 8 days, you've gotta book it. Get everything off the bottom and get your FC up to SLAM level, like in the next hour, keep it there, without fail, until your party and hope for the best.

Every minute your FC drops below SLAM level is lengthening the time you need to SLAM by some amount. There is no way around that. Obviously, you can't add chlorine every minute, but you could test and add it every hour. Even every half hour at first. Taper down to every other hour when the FC starts to hold better. Stay up as late as you can testing and dosing, get up as early as you can and start again.

If you're pouring in some random amount of chlorine once or twice a day, and haphazardly poking at the bottom and/or backwashing every few days, you'll get there eventually, but it won't likely be by next Saturday. The "M" in SLAM stands for "maintain." That doesn't mean get your FC up to SLAM level once a day or every other day, that means get your FC up to SLAM level and keep it there, MAINTAIN it there, constantly, until the SLAM is over.

A little tough love for ya.

 
You'll be grateful to babysit that DE filter and maintain the SLAM. The DE will clear it fast if you don't "kittyfoot" around. :mrgreen: You have a great opportunity to clear the pool. Take your phone or tablet on your bathroom breaks and read pool school top to bottom, side to side, inside n out.
 
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Kittyfoot, heh, heh, heh.

30 Pussyfoot ideas | looney tunes cartoons, looney tunes, looney
 
I am not sure why those numbers would be off.
Because of their testing technique or they did not clean the vials between customers or the machine has not been calibrated or........................This was a good lesson on why to not trust the pool store testing.
something to do with the dead algae,
That is my guess! What you can do is grab a turkey baster and such some up. Squirt it out onto a white paper towel inside a strainer. Let it dry and see what it looks like then. Take and share pics as we know what dead, dry algae looks like.
 
Your water is still cloudy, right? I'm no help in the DE questions, but chemically you want to get your CYA up to 30 and continue the SLAM. The key is to maintain the FC at that SLAM level, which would be 12 with a CYA of 30.

For adding CYA use the sock method - put it in a sock and hang it front of the return. Give it a squeeze periodically.
It is not. The water is crystal clear, though my CYA is still low. My test is cloudy enough where the reagent is detecting it, but not quite where the dot disappears. I'm close, though, maybe 20 CYA? I may have to pick up another bag and do the sock method.

As I hinted at previously, if you want to be ready to put people in your pool in 7 or 8 days, you've gotta book it. Get everything off the bottom and get your FC up to SLAM level, like in the next hour, keep it there, without fail, until your party and hope for the best.
I definitely underestimated my pool volume, so I changed the volume to the worst case scenario of 40,000 gallons. This got my SLAM numbers WAY up. I definitely added way more chlorine that I needed to. My first post-change test was 15 FC, .3 CC.

Over the weekend I was able to focus on testing and maintaining SLAM. With the weather being rainy yesterday, I went from 15 to 12 (did not add any chlorine) to 10 this morning and 9.5 this evening. Besides pulling out the usual leaves and whatnot falling throughout the day, the pool is spotless and crystal clear. Even the robot has been clean throughout the day. My CC through the rest of the weekend was a consistent .2. Pool Math asked for 40 oz of chlorine. I put about a half gallon in as I wasn't about to break out the measuring cups in front of my wife.

Get a SpeedStir device (you'll wonder why, but thank me later, I swear).
Yeah, I QUICKLY figured out why. It has been ordered and should arrive sometime this week.

You'll be grateful to babysit that DE filter and maintain the SLAM. The DE will clear it fast if you don't "kittyfoot" around. :mrgreen: You have a great opportunity to clear the pool. Take your phone or tablet on your bathroom breaks and read pool school top to bottom, side to side, inside n out.
The only thing I got from this comment is that I will be taking longer than normal bathroom breaks at work tomorrow, and that I need to use kittyfoot in a sentence, preferably with my boss.

That is my guess! What you can do is grab a turkey baster and such some up. Squirt it out onto a white paper towel inside a strainer. Let it dry and see what it looks like then. Take and share pics as we know what dead, dry algae looks like.
I cleaned out the robot already, there's not much being picked up anymore. If the robot accumulates enough I'll upload it here. But it's identical to U.S. east coast sand when wet; very fine, almost powdery, light tan with some speckles of black. If you rub it between your fingers it almost feels like it should dissolve, but it doesn't.
 
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