Both return and suction side leak

[tagteamcomputing]

I have a leak in both the return and suction side.


I bought the house with the pool so I have no idea what happened here to necessitate this repair and they the lines are crossed like this. However, as you can see their repair has failed on both the suction AND the return side.

My plan is to cut at the junctions for both pipes and redo it all but I have a couple of questions.
1. Should I use 90deree or 45 degree corners?
2. Should I uset this flex type of pipe again or regular pipe?



Thanks for any help, I need to get his fixed before it gets hot.

 

[Jimrahbe]

TTC,

In my opinion, the sad original repair is why you are having to do it again...

I would not use flex.. ever!!!

I'd use the off-set fix like in your pic...

I doubt that it will make much difference if you use 90's or 45's..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[tagteamcomputing]

Thanks Jim. I was just wondering if maybe a 90 once seated around with dirt and rock would be less likely to flex a bit and come loose again. However, It seems that water would flow a bit easier with a 45 but maybe not much easier.

Also, they had this hole filled with old concrete chunks , old pieces of pipe etc. Obviously, so they had some fill stuff and didn't have to cart it out.
Would it be better to fill it in with some gravel or sand around the pipes and then some topsoil and then some more gravel right under the concrete when I repour it?
Thanks

 

[tagteamcomputing]

I have to repair a repair of a straight pipe. The last guys used 45 degree joins and flex pipe. I am going to use 90 and regular 2" pipe. Like the image below



however, I am not sure how you get a good secure seating with a twist doing this. There will not be long enough pipe length for a 2" pipe to flex a bit to get the 90 degree elbow over the edge and fully seated.

What is the recommended way of doing this? do I build out the entire half square and then try to get a little flex and seat both ends at once

 

[swamprat69]

Not sure about total length of the straight runs from the picture. depending on the length of the straight runs and the flexibility of the piping it might be possible to use unions on both of the outside straight runs to connect or possibly compression couplings in both of any of the straight runs depending on length. B&K® 2" Socket PVC Union or JONES STEPHENS 2 in. PVC Compression Coupling for Cold Water Lines C12200 - The Home Depot

 

[Bperry]

I have to repair a repair of a straight pipe. The last guys used 45 degree joins and flex pipe. I am going to use 90 and regular 2" pipe. Like the image below

View attachment 566262

however, I am not sure how you get a good secure seating with a twist doing this. There will not be long enough pipe length for a 2" pipe to flex a bit to get the 90 degree elbow over the edge and fully seated.

What is the recommended way of doing this? do I build out the entire half square and then try to get a little flex and seat both ends at once

Yep, the twist is a good idea when possible but not a deal breaker. If this is going to get buried, dont use flex pipe or unions. Your future self will thank me later.

 

[pjt]

I have to repair a repair of a straight pipe.

What type of problem do you have? If suitable, I'd highly recommend Plast-aid. It yields much better results than epoxy. I used it to repair my cracked SWG. It bonds extremely well with PVC, and it's unbelievably strong.

Waterproof Plastic Repair Kits Fixes cracked ABS PVC Acrylic Wood More

 

[tagteamcomputing]

This is the problem, I had posted about it in another thread. I don't know if I want to patch a leaky joint only to have to dig it out again in a few years.

 

[Bperry]

This is the problem, I had posted about it in another thread. I don't know if I want to patch a leaky joint only to have to dig it out again in a few years.
View attachment 566306

Curses to the person who did that! (Unless it was you then i take it back partly).

I’d do it with 2 90’s pointing straight up on the existing ends of the line. Then create a “U” of the right length so you can connect/glue both ends at once. Have a friend there to help hold one of the joints tight while you hold the other. Trying to hold both can be tricky.

 

[Pool_Medic]

Up north we used to use spa flex a lot with zero issues, provided the right glue was used. I’d cut that back to rigid then dry fit with 45’s.

 

[tagteamcomputing]

No, I did not do it, so you don't have to take it back.
Ok, so I will cut it back to rigid, put the 90's on each end then make my U and have a friend help me and we can get it in fully seated then and the only thing we dont get is the twist, which should be ok as long as I get good primer and glue on it.

I like that plan, I have to be very precise on my cuts to make the U but that does seem to be the best to get it fully seated, which I think is more important that the twist if you could only have one.

Do you have any recommendations on the lenght of the pieces for the U or it doesnt matter?
Also, should I make them at a slight angle so they stay deeper in the ground for freeze concerns.

 

[Bperry]

No, I did not do it, so you don't have to take it back.
Ok, so I will cut it back to rigid, put the 90's on each end then make my U and have a friend help me and we can get it in fully seated then and the only thing we dont get is the twist, which should be ok as long as I get good primer and glue on it.

I like that plan, I have to be very precise on my cuts to make the U but that does seem to be the best to get it fully seated, which I think is more important that the twist if you could only have one.

Do you have any recommendations on the lenght of the pieces for the U or it doesnt matter?
Also, should I make them at a slight angle so they stay deeper in the ground for freeze concerns.

I dont think it matters, though longer U pieces have a bit more flex than smaller so maybe that can help you or hurt you depending on your perspective.