Bonding question

[dawaves]

Hello TFP world! I have several bonding questions for those who can weigh in, thanks!

Is it redundant to have a skimmer with a water bond AND a sacrificial anode with a water bond on your pool equipment? I'm not worried about budget but just want to absolutely make sure my pool is properly bonded. I plan on getting LED lights for my remodel so I wont have any metal housing for the lights and I don't have any metal ladders as well.
So besides bonding every metal object 5ft around my pool and all rebar at 4 points from the bond beam around my gunite in-ground pool, and the heater and pump, any other things I should consider?
I will also be putting GFCI outlets and breakers in my equipment pad area as well.

So other than a freak lightning bolt shooting into my pool or me dropping an electric drill on a NON-GFCI circuit, is there anything else that could shock or kill me?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Read Electrical Bonding - Further Reading

 

[dawaves]

Thanks Allen! I'll be sure to read up on this and ask any followup questions.

 

[Jimrahbe]

da,

Bonding has nothing to do with a Sacrificial Anode.

Bonding helps prevent someone from being electrocuted if voltage is ever connected to the water..

A Sacrificial anode is "supposed" to prevent corrosion..

One has nothing to do with the other..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[dawaves]

Hi Jim, Yes thanks for that clarification! I guess I didn't specify the sacrificial anode I was thinking of getting which was the one that had the bonding lug attached to it as well to bond the water from that point. Unless I'm mistaken that all sacrificial anodes have this option and I'm just misinformed.
I've attached a picture of the one I was referring to.
Thx!

 

[Jerz]

Hello TFP world! I have several bonding questions for those who can weigh in, thanks!

Is it redundant to have a skimmer with a water bond AND a sacrificial anode with a water bond on your pool equipment? I'm not worried about budget but just want to absolutely make sure my pool is properly bonded. I plan on getting LED lights for my remodel so I wont have any metal housing for the lights and I don't have any metal ladders as well.
So besides bonding every metal object 5ft around my pool and all rebar at 4 points from the bond beam around my gunite in-ground pool, and the heater and pump, any other things I should consider?
I will also be putting GFCI outlets and breakers in my equipment pad area as well.

So other than a freak lightning bolt shooting into my pool or me dropping an electric drill on a NON-GFCI circuit, is there anything else that could shock or kill me?

Thanks!

Not sure what lights you're getting but the Jandy Watercolors have a plastic wet niche and still require a #8 are copper bond from the lug outside the housing to the bond grid, a green insulated #8 from a lug inside the housing to a ground bar at the approved junction box and also an equipment ground inside the cord that comes with the light... at least for new construction... seems a bit redundant. I'm putting a copper bonding grid under the travertine pavers which is 2ft wide with #8 12" on center all the way around the pool (probably overkill) and then from the grid looping through the equipment.

Edit: my lights are 120volt... requirements may differ with low voltage pool lights.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Da,

If your pool deck and water is bonded, you don't really need any other water bonding points.. Obviously the equipment is also connected to the bonding line.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JPontius6]

Da,
To answer your question about redundant water bonding, technically the sacrificial anode will do just that - sacrifice itself. Eventually, it will sacrifice so much of itself that it will not longer meet the total surface contact area required for a code-compliant water bond. For this reason, a redundant bond of the water (in your second skimmer port) is a good idea. That's what I did.

 

[dawaves]

Not sure what lights you're getting but the Jandy Watercolors have a plastic wet niche and still require a #8 are copper bond from the lug outside the housing to the bond grid, a green insulated #8 from a lug inside the housing to a ground bar at the approved junction box and also an equipment ground inside the cord that comes with the light... at least for new construction... seems a bit redundant. I'm putting a copper bonding grid under the travertine pavers which is 2ft wide with #8 12" on center all the way around the pool (probably overkill) and then from the grid looping through the equipment.

Edit: my lights are 120volt... requirements may differ with low voltage pool lights.

Hey Jerz, thanks for the reply and insight into Jandy lights!
I don't have a complete grasp on which LED lights I'll end up using. As of right now, I'm looking into CMP and Hayward lights only because I'm leaning towards a Hayward automation system like OmniHub or OmniPL. I don't know if I should use 120V or low voltage lighting in the pool yet.

I'll post about lights in the near future on another thread.

My current drained pool has a old school metal ring and non led bulb inside and that's what I want to stay away from due to the electrical shock potential.

 

[dawaves]

Da,
To answer your question about redundant water bonding, technically the sacrificial anode will do just that - sacrifice itself. Eventually, it will sacrifice so much of itself that it will not longer meet the total surface contact area required for a code-compliant water bond. For this reason, a redundant bond of the water (in your second skimmer port) is a good idea. That's what I did.

Hey JP, that's exactly what I was thinking too! A secondary bond in the water just in case something with one or the other goes awry just seems logical to me. Thanks for the vote of confidence and suggestion. Much appreciated!