My SWG has a digital display that shows the level of salt, and I always go by that because if it goes low my system doesn't generate chlorine! If it gets down to about 2600 I add a 40 lb bag of salt. I had my water tested at Leslie's and they told me I had WAY more salt than my digital readout said, making me wonder if my digital display is incorrect. They have a whole new system this year to check chemicals and salt now. It does seem like I have had to add more salt in the last year than I have had to in the past. My salt cell is clean. It seems like I don't have any other choice than to trust my SWG digital display since that is what determines if chlorine is produced or not but is there another good way to test the salt level? I don't trust Leslie's, unfortunately.
Best way to test salt?
- Thread starter BB_Sacramento
- Start date
- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,973
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Obtain a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. It's a very good kit. Keep in mind there were almost always be a testing variance between your own testing and that on the SWG.
- Sep 1, 2011
- 545
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
tftestkits.com Individual Tests
Also, as a side note....from experience...., it's 200 ppm salt per drop, not 100.
Also, as a side note....from experience...., it's 200 ppm salt per drop, not 100.
BB,
I never, ever, trust what the SWCG reports as the salt level, as it can often be way off, as you have found out.
I also use the Taylor K-1766... to measure the actual salt level in the pool. As long as the actual salt level is close to what the SWCG report, then everything is good. When the two number are much different, I know my cell has a problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I never, ever, trust what the SWCG reports as the salt level, as it can often be way off, as you have found out.
I also use the Taylor K-1766... to measure the actual salt level in the pool. As long as the actual salt level is close to what the SWCG report, then everything is good. When the two number are much different, I know my cell has a problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Kind of funny. My pool store doesn't trust its own test. The pool store asks what your SWG is reading. We know not to trust the SWG. That's why I have the K-1766.
jark87
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
The disparity between my cell and Taylor test had grown last year and SWCG threw an error due to low salt. I cleaned the sensor with rubbing alcohol and tests are back within 10% of cell display. Try cleaning the sensors and see if that helps bring the results more in line with each other.
Here is a dumb question - where is the sensor? Maybe it needs cleaned! Is it in the box where the digital display is, or is it in the salt cell itself connected to the pvc? Thanks!
jark87
Silver Supporter
- Jun 5, 2011
- 1,182
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Mine is on the bottom of the salt cell. It’s like a cap that screws off and has a wire connected to it. Once you unscrew it, you see some metal sensors. That’s with the Aquapure 1400. If you have the documentation for your SWCG, it should tell you.
I cleaned the salt cell sensor with alcohol. The swabs I used turned brown so the sensor wasn't clean, but cleaning it made no difference. The salt cell itself looks clean - I don't see any build-up on the plates, but I cleaned that anyway in acid and water for 15 minutes, then rinsed it out and reassembled it, and still no difference. Now I've ordered the Taylor K-1766 so I can check the salt myself as opposed to Leslie's. I really appreciate everyone on this forum - you've saved me so much money and helped me to understand my pool and equipment.
I received the Taylor k-1766 salt test kit today and tested the salt in the water, and the water got milky and didn't change color (red) after 30 drops of the solution! I stopped there...and before buying a whole new salt cell I'm ordering a new cell sensor for $34. My salt generator is about maybe 8 years old but I think it's worth it to try the sensor first before spending $1000 after tax. Fingers crossed.
laprjns
LifeTime Supporter
- Aug 14, 2012
- 577
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Try using a 10ml sample. Lots of people, including me, mistakenly use 25 ml samples the first time they do the test. The directions are easily misread.
It could be possible you're salt level is over 6000ppm. I would try again and make sure the drops are full drops. I assume you could also do a dilution test as well with 5ml pool water and 5ml distilled, then double the result. The salt test is my favorite test, because that end point is so pronounced.
While waiting for my salt cell censor to be delivered I had my water tested at Leslie's and they told me it's at 4,200. My panel says 2,400. I received the new sensor and replaced the old one, and nothing changed. The light is still blinking "check salt" and the salt amount still says 2,400. The new sensor doesn't have any indication on it what direction it is when you screw it in, so I just watched my panel and stopped turning it when the lights looked correct (not solid "no flow" and generating light is green) Did I install it right? Also, I assume that if the salt level is actually a lot higher than 2,400 - so, does it take time for the sensor to reset or recalculate that? It could be that the whole salt cell needs to be replaced but I'd like to verify that I changed the sensor correctly.
I called Hayward support and they told me to reset the panel and sent directions to me in email. They also told me I should take my whole cell into a pool store and ask them to test it for me to make sure it's working properly. I've already reset the panel and it looks like it's working properly now, but if not my next step is having the cell tested.
Update - The salt cell panel (Aqua Rite Hayward brand) worked for a day or two then the salt level went to 0 and won't be reset. I took the salt cell to Leslie's pool supply and they checked it, and it's working normally. I called Hayward support and they told me if the salt level is very high it will go to 0 and the only way to fix it is to drain water from the pool. Since my salt level is registering at 6,600 on the Taylor test kit, I drained half my pool. I had to buy a submersible pump to drain using a garden hose into my clothes washer drain in my garage. It took a day to drain and a few hours to refill. Hayward told me that it might take a 2-3 days of running the filter to be able to reset the panel to the normal level for salt. That's where I am now.
Update: After getting my salt levels correct, panel still shows 0 for salt and won't reset so I had a Hayward approved repair repair person to evaluate my situation. The Hayward Aqua Rite panel needs to be replaced because the board has gone bad and recommended replacing the panel and the salt cell with all new because they are both 14 years old. Cost with labor $2500!
My Aqua Rite (Hayward) SWG panel and cell need to be replaced. Is that a difficult job for a pool company to do since it's not a new install? What kind of qualifications should I be looking for before hiring someone so I don't void any warranty?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,736
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Have you read Hayward Aquarite SWG? - Further Reading
If like for like replacement, a handyman can replace it in under an hour.
If like for like replacement, a handyman can replace it in under an hour.