Basic flow switch question.

mauryc

0
Apr 1, 2015
11
baton rouge/ la
Could use some advice here. Haywood aquarite showing no flow. Replaced switch (Amazon aftermarket) and still no flow. Made a jumper from d switch and light blinks and goes off so panel is good. Ordered another flow switch (different brand) and still no flow. This is even if I close the switches manually. What are the chances that both new are doa? Guess I’ll spend the $$ on an actual Haywood one?
Thoughts? Thank you, Maury.
 
Updating this. Three (3) attempts at new flow switches and none trigger flow on panel (installed and closed manually). All three tested and show 0.5-1.4 ohms. Jumper still triggers panel to show flow. DE filter is clean. Cell is also. Strong flow. I'm at a loss. Assume it's something in the panel at this point. Any insights would be appreciated.

Thanks, Maury
 
. Assume it's something in the panel at this point.

If the jumper works it is not in the panel.

Check the flow switch socket. They corrode and don't make a good contact with the new plug.
 
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I was thinking the same. I did the alcohol swab in the socket. But three separate flow switches not making good contact but the jumper from the old one does (after it showed no flow with the flow switch attached?) I guess stranger things have happened. Is the ohm range on the tested switches good enough to trigger a closed switch? Loosing what little hair I have left.
 
Did you try a genuine Hayward flow switch or are all cheap ones from Amazon?
 
I would also check the arrow in reference to the actual moving parts of the flow switch. I once had the arrow alignment wrong from the manufacturer and needed to set the arrow backwards to have it work but 3 not working is another issue. Make sure the contacts on the small phone line plug clicks in all the way.
 

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Yes, one of the flow switches was the expensive Hayward brand, and yes, the arrows are in the correct direction. The switches also don't activate the flow light even when compressed by hand.

The LED is a NO FLOW indication.

The flow switch light will blink for about 30 seconds from the time it detects a closed flow switch and then the light should go out.

If the light is on steady, then it thinks that the flow switch is open.
 
Not plugged in correctly perhaps. I had similar with a circupool and took a few tries to click it in to make proper contact. If there was nothing plugged in that slot even for one day a spider web being pushed in there while pluging it in can do that.
 
So original connector on left that works as a jumper. Two of new ones on right connected to flow switches that don’t work. In an act of desperation, I cut one of the new ones off, twisted the wires together and tried as a jumper. It didn’t work! So I attached old connector to new flow switch, and closed switch with my hand and it worked. So now I’ve got a new switch spliced in. Not ideal, but functional. Thanks everyone for their assistance.
Maury.
 

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Just for curiosity can you try the following. Of the two that didn't work can you check continuity from the contacts to the wire to see if the problem is/was they didn't pierce the wire when the plug was crimpt on to the wire.
The two to the right look to be a bigger or wider plug with more slots but unsure I can tell from the picture possibly not fitting the same way.
 
Great you got it figured out.

Some observations on the pic yo0u posted.

The plug on the right that worked has four contacts although only two are used.

The two plugs on the left only have two contacts.

Are those two plugs on the left genuine Hayward parts or aftermarket from Amazon?



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