Balanced and clear but can see some oil depending on how the sun hits the water

[Agrabah]

6.4 FC
0.2 CC
8.0 (added MA will be back to 8.0 in a few days) pH
90 TA
300 CH
90 CyA (a little on the high side but not worth draining/filling right now
79f
0.14 CSI

Only “issue” is when sunlight hits the pool a certain way I can see a layer of oil even after not swimming for several days. Cartridge was recently cleaned. Picked up some scum balls to throw in tomorrow. The picture makes it look worse than is actually visible.

Anything I should do? Run pump higher speeds longer? Anything I’m doing wrong? Do I need higher FC?

 

[PoolStored]

Cartridge was recently cleaned.

What did you clean it with? May be residual from cleaning agent.

Picked up some scum balls to throw in tomorrow.

Great idea, or some tennis balls.

The picture makes it look worse than is actually visible.

Are you heavy sunscreen users?

Anything I should do? Run pump higher speeds longer? Anything I’m doing wrong? Do I need higher FC?

Not for the oil, but I would certainly run your FC higher, 10-12, given your CYA. Use liquid chlorine to raise it to 10-12 and use SWCG to maintain. See here...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

You could, with the scum balls, run your pump a bit higher for longer to skim that to the balls.

 

[Agrabah]

No cleaning agents.

I’m not sure my T-3 can maintain FC that high without me running it much longer. I am around 6.8 at 50%. 100% might barely hit 12 or so.

Also yes on the sunscreen. We have about 6 hours a day if we don’t put sunscreen on we will burn. I figured it would suck into the filter after a week though but I guess not.

 

[Mdragger88]

No cleaning agents.

I’m not sure my T-3 can maintain FC that high without me running it much longer. I am around 6.8 at 50%. 100% might barely hit 12 or so.

Also yes on the sunscreen. We have about 6 hours a day if we don’t put sunscreen on we will burn. I figured it would suck into the filter after a week though but I guess not.

It should still be maintaining/replenishing the same amount of fc daily - you will just initially dose with liquid chlorine once to increase the actual fc level in the pool.

 

[PoolStored]

No cleaning agents.

I’m not sure my T-3 can maintain FC that high without me running it much longer. I am around 6.8 at 50%. 100% might barely hit 12 or so.

Also yes on the sunscreen. We have about 6 hours a day if we don’t put sunscreen on we will burn. I figured it would suck into the filter after a week though but I guess not.

You need to separate out the issues. Oil and FC level.

Let's start with FC. With CYA of 90, you need to keep 10-12 to avoid algae. There is a difference between maintaining and raising FC. Running at 50% keeps FC at 6.8 given your demand. If you raise FC with liquid chlorine, then the cell may be able to maintain 10-12, depending on your daily demand. Your cell, running at 100% 24/7 will create 5.1 FC per day. I would recommend you raise FC to 12 with liquid chlorine and then setup your cell to run 24 hours and see if it can maintain at 12.

On the oil side, it is likely the sunscreen. Use your scum balls, or tennis balls and see how that picks it up.

 

[Mdragger88]

Also - running your cell at 50% 24/7 will at best, only produce 2.9 ppm fc. Average fc loss is 2-5ppm/day. With sunnier hotter climates leaning towards the higher end of that range. It’s time to also turn it up a notch in the midst of your desert summer.

 

[Bperry]

6.4 FC
0.2 CC
8.0 (added MA will be back to 8.0 in a few days) pH
90 TA
300 CH
90 CyA (a little on the high side but not worth draining/filling right now
79f
0.14 CSI

Only “issue” is when sunlight hits the pool a certain way I can see a layer of oil even after not swimming for several days. Cartridge was recently cleaned. Picked up some scum balls to throw in tomorrow. The picture makes it look worse than is actually visible.

Anything I should do? Run pump higher speeds longer? Anything I’m doing wrong? Do I need higher FC?

You’re running your chlorine at the bare minimum for 90CYA. Be careful as losing even 2.5ppm of FC during the day will put you below minimum.

Also have a tip. Switch to using the 10ml sample process when testing FC. It’s plenty accurate enough and the math is way faster since you just divide the number drops in half to get the FC level.

 

[Agrabah]

So last night 7:30 PM FC was at 14 and 0.2 CC, this morning at 10:40 AM it’s at 9.6 with 0.8 CC. Nothing been in it all night. Have the generator set to about 60%. I’ll check again after 7:30 PM so I can get a full 24 hours to see what’s going on but I can’t see that much chlorine being used overnight, then again, I’ve never done back to back testing like this either.

 

[PoolStored]

Try this test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Both tests in the dark (after sunset and before sunrise).

 

[Agrabah]

Try this test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Both tests in the dark (after sunset and before sunrise).

I’ll check that out. Probably try it out next weekend just going to monitor. I did notice there’s a few leaves that blew in from elsewhere and at least one grasshopper but I wouldn’t expect that much to be used killing off the few leaves and some small insects.

 

[Bperry]

So last night 7:30 PM FC was at 14 and 0.2 CC, this morning at 10:40 AM it’s at 9.6 with 0.8 CC. Nothing been in it all night. Have the generator set to about 60%. I’ll check again after 7:30 PM so I can get a full 24 hours to see what’s going on but I can’t see that much chlorine being used overnight, then again, I’ve never done back to back testing like this either.

You need to check it before 10:40am. Need to be dark.

 

[Agrabah]

Decided to test again.looks like it was a bad read. 13.2 and 0.0 now which is more in line with what I expected.

That said, what’s considered safe now? A bunch of sites online say you shouldn’t swim over 5ppm which obviously isn’t exactly the case.

 

[mknauss]

That said, what’s considered safe now? A bunch of sites online say you shouldn’t swim over 5ppm which obviously isn’t exactly the case.

CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

Decided to test again.looks like it was a bad read. 13.2 and 0.0 now which is more in line with what I expected.

That said, what’s considered safe now? A bunch of sites online say you shouldn’t swim over 5ppm which obviously isn’t exactly the case.

It is safe to swim with fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya so long as you can see the bottom of the pool for swimmer safety.
FC/CYA Levels
& ph is in the 7’s
The ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm so take that into consideration before adjusting it. That is one reason it is complicated to maintain a pool with very high cya levels .

 

[Agrabah]

12 FC 8:30 PM yesterday
11.2 FC 7:30 PM today. Will check back tomorrow. Might need to adjust up the % on the SWG currently at 80 so not much room to work with. Otherwise will need to run pump for more hrs per day.

 

[Agrabah]

10.8 FC today.

Increasing run time an additional 2 hours. 7AM to 6PM now. Based on napkin math should be back at 12 within 3-4 days.

 

[PoolStored]

Have you done an OCLT? You are probably ok, but might be worth the test...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[Mdragger88]

10.8 FC today.

Increasing run time an additional 2 hours. 7AM to 6PM now. Based on napkin math should be back at 12 within 3-4 days.

When you need to increase fc it’s best to dose with liquid chlorine then set the swg to maintain that. Rinse & repeat They’re not great with playing catch up

 

[duraleigh]

Adding scumballs or polyfill to your skimmers should clean up that oil.

 

[Mdragger88]

Also, have you done the diluted cya test to confirm your cya?
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

The
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test as mentioned above is also a great idea.