Average Pool Depth

genlee

Well-known member
Jul 16, 2019
47
GA
Although we live in GA the water is too chilly to jump in and measure the depth in order to calculate gallons.
The pool is oval and measures 15w x 32l and the deep end slopes from side to the bottom.
How does one measure that?
 
G,

Generally it is not a major issue and initially you can just guesstimate it. You can refine your estimate later.

Does your pool have a diving board? Does it appear to have a deep end and a shallow end?

What is it that you are attempting to do?

I would start off with 5.5 feet and adjust from there. That would be about 20K gallons

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I would lay some planks (more if 2X4s, two of 2X8s) across the deep end corner to get just enough to be able to measure the bottom of the sloped side where it meets the bottom. Average the deep end and shallow end. A longer shallow end will make less average depth but for now just average the two. When it’s warm you can figure out a closer estimate of one end is longer than the other.
so next up is area of the oval. Google a website to put the General shape and measurements in and you won’t even have to do the hard math.

surface area X average depth X 7.5 gallons per sq ft.

it won’t be exact for now but at least you’d have an idea if it’s 6k or 15k or 22k.
 
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If you're not confident with your estimates, a fishing pole would work. Weight the end of the line, drop it in, drop the tip of the pole to water level, and lock the reel. You can then measure the fishing line past the tip.
 
I like the @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta fishing pole much better than my own idea. You only need a little reach to get beyond the wall slope, but it’s just far enough that you can’t comfortably reach in on your own. If you don’t have a pole you can buy the cheesiest $9 Barbie pole you can find meant for kids.
 
Once you get your test kit, and learn to use it, you can use chemical additions to double check your volume guesstimate. You'll initially use that volume number to calculate how much of something to add (chlorine, acid, whatever). We here at TFP all use Pool Math for those calculations, it's an app, check it out here. Test your water. Add the appropriate amount of a pool chemical to adjust your water's balance. Let it mix in for a half hour or so (pump running), then test your water again. If the second test shows the expected result for the chemical addition, your volume number is good. If the test result is off by much, then it's likely* your volume number is not accurate. Adjust the volume number accordingly, and repeat this process the next time you need to add a chemical. Eventually, you'll fine tune your volume number such that adding X amount of a chemical results in the correct corresponding test result.

* I say "likely" because other things can affect accuracy. For example, if you're using this method for FC and chlorine, you'd want to do this process at night, ideally a day or two after anyone has been in the pool, and once you're certain your pool is free of algae. Sunlight and heat and humans and algae burn up chlorine, so you want to eliminate those variables as much as possible to improve the accuracy of the two back-to-back test results.

If all that made absolutely no sense, no worries. It will... if you stick with TFP... :)
 
Once you get your test kit, and learn to use it, you can use chemical additions to double check your volume guesstimate. You'll initially use that volume number to calculate how much of something to add (chlorine, acid, whatever). We here at TFP all use Pool Math for those calculations, it's an app, check it out here. Test your water. Add the appropriate amount of a pool chemical to adjust your water's balance. Let it mix in for a half hour or so (pump running), then test your water again. If the second test shows the expected result for the chemical addition, your volume number is good. If the test result is off by much, then it's likely* your volume number is not accurate. Adjust the volume number accordingly, and repeat this process the next time you need to add a chemical. Eventually, you'll fine tune your volume number such that adding X amount of a chemical results in the correct corresponding test result.

* I say "likely" because other things can affect accuracy. For example, if you're using this method for FC and chlorine, you'd want to do this process at night, ideally a day or two after anyone has been in the pool, and once you're certain your pool is free of algae. Sunlight and heat and humans and algae burn up chlorine, so you want to eliminate those variables as much as possible to improve the accuracy of the two back-to-back test results.

If all that made absolutely no sense, no worries. It will... if you stick with TFP... :)
Tks. I have started reading the Pool School info.
 

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It's been a while since I read both, but when I did, the eBook version was an easier read: it was linear, front to back, like a short book, as opposed to the online version which required a lot of hopping around. Grab the eBook version if you can (99¢, I think)... Load that and the Pool Math app on your phone (the app is free to fool around on, with an in-app purchase that you'll eventually want later) and you'll have two of the three tools you'll need, the third being a quality test kit, which you'll read about...
 
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It's been a while since I read both, but when I did, the eBook version was an easier read: it was linear, front to back, like a short book, as opposed to the online version which required a lot of hopping around. Grab the eBook version if you can (99¢, I think)... Load that and the Pool Math app on your phone (the app is free to fool around on, with an in-app purchase that you'll eventually want later) and you'll have two of the three tools you'll need, the third being a quality test kit, which you'll read about...
Dirk: Thanks. I was able to load the "Pool School" into my wife's I-pad. Much easier reading.
 
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