- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,828
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yes, something's not right. I see you have the K-1766 test kit is that how you're checking or are you using the reading on the swg?
Automation, SWG decisions
- Thread starter eco-help
- Start date
Been battling one health thing or another in the family for the last 10 years, but things seemed to be aligning now.
Shed roof for solar (shingled area). You were talking about your roof being shady...pool with almost complete shed: designed-for-solar roof
This is long:
I just received the salt test kit. I, with my novice skills, tested it at 4400 (which I know is high, there is an explanation see below)
I have had the pool since 2012, started maintaining myself since 2014. During that time I have used different Pinch-A-Penny stores and their tests. Yes we can take this to "agree to disagree" but I can say that the stores agree with each other's readings, agree (within margin of error) with Aquarite (well until the cell started failing).
Eventually I had to keep increasing salt to have the Aquarite not show low salt. During the last
Good to hear with the health thing..Been battling one health thing or another in the family for the last 10 years, but things seemed to be aligning now.
pool with almost complete shed: designed-for-solar roof
so wait, you built a shed just for solar? Neat!
Well the shed has tons of stuff in it (including some resident 'coons that have pooped on just about everything), but the size and angle of the roof were specifically for solar. Of course now wish I'd made it about 4 ft wider. ?
Think maybe your salt history story got truncated?
Think maybe your salt history story got truncated?
Last edited:
I was using both SWG reading and 2 different Pinch-A-Penny stores. Just received the kit (after SWG turned off) and other than one reading (4400) I didn't test again. I hope the level magically drops to something reasonable - it was high because I was "gaming" the SWG to work.
I have no idea what happened, I typed a massive long story then decided to remove it all and just summarize.. but somehow it managed to be posted anyway.. I think the summary version should suffice...
probably wish you made it 'coon proof too lol. Maybe you can extend it?
There's a section of the wall above the windows that didn't get enclosed (can see 2x6s in pic) = 'coon grand entry. It'll get done ... eventually. The width of the roof allows only 1 ft on each end of the horizontal solar panels. The existing panels are the cheapy Fafco Sungrabbers; stored for 10 years and likely will emulate a sieve. Since we already have them, nothing to lose but time at this point to try 'em.
I just read half way through the thread link you posted. Wow some of the things I have been trying to determine... I could replace the Aquarite for the Aquaplus (the savings from the cell pay some of the cost of the upgrade) which would mean buying the Tristar (even briefly tried to figure all the models)... to then figure I should go with Pentair since people here are saying Pentair automation is best.. but then it maybe best to buy the Pentair SWG to go with (which is to me sub-optimal due to Pentair having the electronics on the cell)Been battling one health thing or another in the family for the last 10 years, but things seemed to be aligning now.
pool with almost complete shed: designed-for-solar roof
Very impressed with the level of detail and diagrams in your thread. It's the sort of thing I like to do in IT, but the plumbing stuff I will have to brush up on.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
That's a pretty typical SWG cell failure scenario.. they start reporting there is not enough salt when they start to go out and if you believe only the cell you will add too much salt into the water. That's why testing the salinity separately helps diagnose that particular failure mode. been there done that. Luckily I didn't add so much salt that I had to drain my pool to get it back in line after replacing the cell.
I say you are in Fla... I've seen where the simmer rains dilute the pool enough and owners forget they have an over flow gizmo on the pool... so the pool drains water, it get replaced with rainwater, and the salinity goes down. That was my first thought when you said you had to keep adding salt.
I have an overflo gizmo on the pool? Is that something that gets installed with newer pools? I have no idea.. the pool came with the house when we bought it in 2012.. it's a very old pool... would this gizmo be a physical piece of equipment? If so there isn't one on the equipment pad. There is a vacuum pipe with a cover. The other end has a red valve which is closed at the equipment pad)
I knew the SWG was reporting it lower than it was. The SWG would work if it's sensor registered the salt level was correct, so I kept increasing salt with the history / knowledge that the salt level would reduce anyway so it wouldn't matter if my actual salt level is a bit high.
Whatever is causing salt to go down I assume will continue. I just hope the new SWG will generate Chlorine with salt level this high if it doesn't. I would rather not drain/fill the pool. CH is a bit high too (again assuming I tested it accurately) so that may force my hand.
I will check and check again before I run the new SWG (whenever I have it installed..) and adjust up or drain a bit and re-fill as necessary.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
That's where testing the salt level helps. If your test matches the controller then that is good and you are loosing water someplace else. Do you have to drain water when it rains there? I setup a siphon on my pool or use the pool's pump to drain water during the winter rains so it doesn't over flow.
Rain went to top of pool a few times..maybe overflow during hurricane I have a backwash valve (for previous sand filter) that I use to drain if needed.. and did so prior to major hurricane as way to help with flooding if needed.
Bit of a storm tonight will see in morning the levels.. was thinking I have to add chlorine it is a definite requirement now.
Bit of a storm tonight will see in morning the levels.. was thinking I have to add chlorine it is a definite requirement now.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Ok then... everytime you have to drain water out of the pool, you are draining off salt and CYA that will need to be replaced. You are losing your chemicals to dilution. I'm lucky where I live as there is not much spring rain and virtually no summer rain. So during the swim season I only lose water to evaporation but the chemicals stay in the pool. and I only see the dilution during the winter rainy season.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,828
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Eco,
This thread seems to be rambling among several topics, I'll stick to the salt issue. Here's what I'd do if I were you. I'm not sure how many tests you've done are actually done with the K-1766 test kit but you need several in a row with this kit. Different tests methods are available they have a fairly wide range of accuracy even when performed with good technique. When different people with different levels of technique are used you introduce even more error. This introduces potentially a large range of accuracy error. The reason we prefer the K-1766 performed by you is it's the most accurate, reliable result you can get. So I would test with the K-1766 and post the result. If your result is outside the recommended range you should adjust necessary. Then do the test again each week and report it here. In the meantime it would be helpful to see a photo of your pool that shows all the skimmers and openings along the pool at the water line and a photo of the pool equipment.
Chris
This thread seems to be rambling among several topics, I'll stick to the salt issue. Here's what I'd do if I were you. I'm not sure how many tests you've done are actually done with the K-1766 test kit but you need several in a row with this kit. Different tests methods are available they have a fairly wide range of accuracy even when performed with good technique. When different people with different levels of technique are used you introduce even more error. This introduces potentially a large range of accuracy error. The reason we prefer the K-1766 performed by you is it's the most accurate, reliable result you can get. So I would test with the K-1766 and post the result. If your result is outside the recommended range you should adjust necessary. Then do the test again each week and report it here. In the meantime it would be helpful to see a photo of your pool that shows all the skimmers and openings along the pool at the water line and a photo of the pool equipment.
Chris
I think jimmythegreek pointed me at a good system, but what turned me away was that my in-pool spa-type jets needed more control than that unit could provide, the next higher version cost was acually close to or more than the IntelliCenter, and the RF to wireless to PC connection was reported as really slow.
Retired development programmer here.
I'm probably partly the cause - an incognito Nash Rambler.
But the automation selection with its solar and SWG aspects so matches what I'm trying to do.Are the salt test strips worth anything? I thought I'd read that they were "good enough" to verify the levels reported by the SWG. If not, I'll need to get that test setup too. Really interested to see if eco's problems are caused by SWG failure. Good info for the future.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,828
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Diane,I think jimmythegreek pointed me at a good system, but what turned me away was that my in-pool spa-type jets needed more control than that unit could provide, the next higher version cost was acually close to or more than the IntelliCenter, and the RF to wireless to PC connection was reported as really slow.
Retired development programmer here.
I'm probably partly the cause - an incognito Nash Rambler.
Are the salt test strips worth anything? I thought I'd read that they were "good enough" to verify the levels reported by the SWG. If not, I'll need to get that test setup too. Really interested to see if eco's problems are caused by SWG failure. Good info for the future.
Test strips are not as accurate +/-500 ppm at best. Some have reported they are close to swg readings but swg readings are from a probe that is even less inaccurate. I originally used test strips because they were on sale. The strip test is really easy but accuracy is an issue for swg. Most salt cells seem to read salt level low. At a per-determined level they warn about low salt and then stop working to protect the cell from damage. So if your test strip is off by 500 ppm and the salt cell reading is even worse say 700 ppm it can be really difficult to be sure you're at least close to the right operating level which makes it hard to diagnose... sort of a vicious circle. This all becomes a non-issue with a drop test that's +/- 200 ppm, super simple to do and has enough reagents to last years for under $30.
Hope this helps.
Chris
Thanks Chris. If I'd known the reagents lasted more than a year, would have gotten one instead of the strips in the first place.
I only drained a few times since 2014. my salt loss is much more frequent than can be accounted by a once every 1-2 yr drain.