Automation stopped working after recent storm - have to replace pump + automation system?

[FL904]

We have had the following working great for the last 5 years:

• EasyTouch upgrade for Compool
• ScreenLogic app
• Pentair Intelliflo VST pump

Recently after a big lightning / rain storm, we noticed that the automation system wasn’t working anymore, specifically:

• Pump wasn’t being turned on according to it’s normal schedule.
• ScreenLogic app appeared to be functional (it would connect and let me tap buttons) but it would not actually control anything - putting it to Spa mode wouldn’t be reflected on EasyTouch panel, and turning on Pool Light feature wouldn’t actually do it.
• EasyTouch panel shows “No Comm” in Pump 1 status
• Pump display is active/buttons work, as if it’s not communicating with EasyTouch

The following still works:

• The pump itself works by itself, I was able to setup a schedule on the pump (instead of EasyTouch) and it’s been working fine
• The EasyTouch screen / buttons appear to be functional _overall_, it will still turn on the pool lights for example.
• I went through the system test diagnostics on the EasyTouch screen and didn’t see any issues.

My local pool repair company tried a new communication cable (didn’t fix problem) so thought we needed to replace the board (PCB assembly for compool to easytouch, 521099-Z) - was going to charge $1k for that.

But then when they came out and put in a new board, that didn’t fix the problem. They discovered that they had to unplug/remove the ScreenLogic wireless receiver from the board or else it would keep tripping the 3amp circuit. But even removed still, the board and the pump wouldn’t communicate.

So now they think lightning fried 3 different parts and that I need to spend $3500 to:

• Replace the board (I had them take it back for now since it didn’t fix the problem)
• Replace the Drive on the Intelliflo VST
• Replace the ScreenLogic wireless bundle

Or (optionally) spend almost $7k to replace the entire pump & automation system with a new Intelliflo VSF and Intellicenter panel.

Questions:

1. Before replacing what visually appears to be a perfectly good pump / drive and a perfectly good automation system, I wanted to get a second opinion here on whether there might be anything else preventing communication from SentryLogic to the pump?
2. Is it common for lightning to damage 3 different parts, but only enough so they don’t communicate with each other?
3. If there’s nothing simpler I’m leaning on replacing everything since I believe that’d give me a new 3 year pump warranty and because the panel box / some of the parts itself are almost 20 years ago. Good idea?

I also fully removed the ScreenLogic wires from the J20 connection (so only the 2 pump wires were connected), and finally I reset the EEPROM - no luck.

 

[Jimrahbe]

FL,

While possible, it is unlikely that lightning damaged three different parts.

If you erased the Eprom, then you have no programs and the pump will not run.

Do this...

Remove EVERYTHING except the main pool pump from the com port on your circuit card.

Make sure the system is in the AUTO mode, and not the Service mode, and then go look at the pump. (You might need to wait a couple of minutes). See what the display on your pump says. It should show "Display Not Active". Since you have two pumps, make sure the cable that is connected to the com port is the same cable going to the main pump.

Try that and let us know what you find.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[FL904]

If you erased the Eprom, then you have no programs and the pump will not run.

I did that as my very last step. But thanks for letting me know. I assume even without a program the pump should still show “display not active”, which it’s not.

Remove EVERYTHING except the main pool pump from the com port on your circuit card.

“Com port” is the same as where it’s labeled J20, right? While my picture shows 2 different sets of wires (4-wire ScreenLogic + 2-wire Pump) plugged into the J20 port, after taking the photo I actually did already remove the 4 ScreenLogic wires which means only the 2-wire Pump ports are still connected there. That’s what you’re talking about, right?

Make sure the system is in the AUTO mode, and not the Service mode, and then go look at the pump. (You might need to wait a couple of minutes). See what the display on your pump says. It should show "Display Not Active".

I didn’t know it could take a couple minutes, thanks for that. But even still, with only the pump in J20, and I checked that it shows “Auto” (not Service/Timeout), after several minutes, the pump still does not show “Display Not Active”.

Since you have two pumps, make sure the cable that is connected to the com port is the same cable going to the main pump.

I actually only have 1 pump, not sure what made you think otherwise? I did made sure that the pump shows “Pump Address 1” and on the panel: that Pump #1 shows Intelliflo, Type VS (since VST isn’t an option), and Pump #2 is not setup.

 

[Jimrahbe]

FL,

If the pump does not say "Display not active" it means either the pump or the main board is bad. Usually it is the board, but not always.

This time, connect ScreenLogic to J20 and nothing else. Then see if ScreenLogic works by turning on a light in ScreenLogic and then seeing if the light actually came on in the pool.

The idea here is to try and eliminate things.. If any device on the RS-485 com port is bad, it can make all the equipment connected to the com port look bad. If ScreenLogic works, then that would tell us that that the main board is ok and of course ScreenLogic Protocol Adapter is ok.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[FL904]

I wired only ScreenLogic to J20 and the 3 amp circuit flips when I turn the power on, the board won’t power on with ScreenLogic in the circuit. So pretty sure ScreenLogic is broken? One of the chips on it also appears swollen. That said, I don’t remember seeing that 3amp breaker flipped when I originally noticed the problem, that maybe happened as part of people messing with everything, not sure.

So I guess it’s likely that ScreenLogic is broken and then either the pump driver OR pump driver + board? We could narrow it down with a replacement ScreenLogic board I assume.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Fl,

When you see a hole in a chip, like in your pic, that is a pretty good indication of a lightning hit.

I assume that the chip is on the outside antenna/transceiver unit. You could as a test, run a 4 wire cable from J20 to the ScreenLogic protocol adapter and eliminate the wireless link. If nothing else this would tell you if the main board is working.

It does look like you took a pretty go lightning hit.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[FL904]

Fl,

When you see a hole in a chip, like in your pic, that is a pretty good indication of a lightning hit.

I assume that the chip is on the outside antenna/transceiver unit. You could as a test, run a 4 wire cable from J20 to the ScreenLogic protocol adapter and eliminate the wireless link. If nothing else this would tell you if the main board is working.

It does look like you took a pretty go lightning hit.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Interesting idea, thanks. Yes that was the outdoor unit.

I believe you’re saying to disconnect the wires from my black indoor unit, bring the white piece (only) outside and plug it into J20 (without pump)? Would it get power from the main board or does it need the black unit for power? Right now it’s plugged into Ethernet - do these things pick up wifi too, or would I need to run long Ethernet to outside to test, or are we only looking to see if the board turns on without the breaker flipping?

 

[Jimrahbe]

FL,

The white unit is called the Protocol Adapter. It basically talks "Pentair" at the end with the green plug and "Ethernet" at the other end which is plugged into your home network.

When you use the wireless links (which are not WiFi) the inside transceiver provides power to the Protocol adapter.

If you remove the wireless links, you can run a simple 4 wire cable from J20 on the EasyTouch and connect it to the green plug on the Protocol Adapter. This should turn the Protocol Adapter on and allow you to control your EasyTouch "assuming" the main board is ok.

The whole point is to try and see what is good and want is bad. No sense buying a main card if it is not bad.

You could also move the Protocol adapter outside and then run a long Ethernet cable back inside to your network.

I am sure the reason the 3-amp fuse pops is because of the bad chip on the outside wireless card.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

If you have a wireless bridge/extender, you can use that at the ET box, plugging the ethernet cable from it to the Protocol Adapter. Then you can see Screenlogic on your Wifi.

 

[FL904]

Ok, so my understanding is I wouldn’t be learning anything new until I have a long enough Ethernet cable to go outside with. I don’t think I do now but I could get one.

Edit: or a wifi extender.

 

[guinness]

Paging @rstrouse in case he has any suggestions since he's an RS-485 expert.

 

[FL904]

I’m borrowing a wifi extender from someone, will try that.

 

[FL904]

I got it hooked up as described.
The 3amp breaker doesn’t flip anymore, board powers on.
My phone is on the Extender network.
When I try to login it gets passed the first “Connecting” step but doesn’t get past the “Searching for system controller” step

Since I erased the EEPROM do I need to do anything to get the ScreenLogic2 Interface Adapter to talk to the board? I see some wireless thing on the screen in settings, not sure if this or anything else is needed)

 

[Jimrahbe]

Fl,

While adding the wi-fi extender might be the best approach in the long run, you have now added in an unknown.. Just connecting the protocol adapter to a 4 wire cable would have just replaced the wireless links, and the protocol adapter would still have been connected to the network as it always was.

Now we don't know if the problem is the protocol adapter or the new connection to the network.

It is best when troubleshooting not to change two things at the same time.

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

I agree Jim, if they have enough Ethernet cable to get from the ET to their modem.

 

[FL904]

Alright… I’ll try to get a long Ethernet. Thanks all.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Marty,

Or just a simple 4 wire 22 gauge cable to connect the J20 com port to the protocol adapter inside house.

You don't have to leave it that way, just need to confirm what works and what does not.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[FL904]

I don’t have a long set of 22 gauge wires either. I’ll pick up a long Ethernet and report back.

 

[FL904]

Actually: I realized if I put the black ScreenLogic piece outside then I could rule out the wireless extender as being the issue. I hooked it up similar to how it’d be in the house, got on the Extender network, and now I can load the app fully.

Do you agree / Does this mean the board is bad? (In addition to the pump drive and ScreenLogic wireless receiver, since the pool company already tried replacing the board but that didn’t resolve the pump issue)

 

[Jimrahbe]

FL, sorry, I am confused.

How is the EasyTouch talking to your home network???

Jim R.