At my wits end with Sta-Rite Dura-Glas system

Jump to latest Follow Reply
JackInTexas

JackInTexas

Member
Aug 7, 2022
6
DFW
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'll be brief...new member here. Senior on a fixed income and trying to keep my pool pump running with as little expense as possible. Problem: Leak between face plate and tank body. I have replaced the shaft seal, diffuser o-ring, seal plate o-ring, stainless attaching band around plates and I still have a leak that's driving me crazy! Shaft seal is installed correctly (good quality part) It's a pre-1998 system so the cone was replaced, too. Impeller is in good shape as is diffuser. I even replaced the screws for it. (from manufacturer) Video here:

Any suggestions appreciated. Almost 50 days of 100 degree+ temps and I need the pump working correctly to keep the water clear! We all know green water =bad! Thanks! :cool:
 
JamesW said:

Sta-Rite Max E pro plastic casing cracked

Crack is on the basket side. Picture is with the clamp removed. Seems like an odd failure spot, but I saw another thread on here with a similar problem and read several comments online from people replacing theirs. Pump is only about 3 years old. Maybe they had a bad run of housings. Pump runs...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

View attachment 444155
Click to expand...
Thank you James....I'll disassemble and check for cracks. Greatly appreciate the reply.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
Toxophilite said:
Your clamp is missing the spring. That might have contributed to the cracked housing by over-tightening of the band. You might get away with some epoxy if tight right now.
Click to expand...
The knob broke and since we've been here, almost 7 years, there never was a spring on that band. Just the the large one on the DE Filter. Why they decided to use brass on a stainless steel bolt is mind boggling! The brass is softer metal and more open to stripping. I pull my filters in spring and fall and backwash one a month.
 
A thumb knob will ensure no one can overtighten, and the band can still expand on temp change. A lot of damage can be done with a wrench and nut, as the band can easily be taken over limit and past limit of the plastic. Would not surprise me if why others have experienced similar cracking in that area.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Toxophilite said:
You might get away with some epoxy if tight right now.
Click to expand...
Epoxy won't work.
Toxophilite said:
A thumb knob will ensure no one can overtighten
Click to expand...
A thumb knob can definitely be overtightened by hand.

Torque is a feel that some people have and some people don't have.

Tightening nuts, bolts, screws etc. can be done with a torque wrench/tool if you know the torque specifications.

However, there is definitely a skill and ability to knowing how tight to get things.

For band clamps, light tapping with a rubber hammer can help seat the clamp without overstressing the nut.
 
  • Like
Reactions: borjis
JamesW said:
Epoxy won't work.

A thumb knob can definitely be overtightened by hand.

Torque is a feel that some people have and some people don't have.

Tightening nuts, bolts, screws etc. can be done with a torque wrench/tool if you know the torque specifications.

However, there is definitely a skill and ability to knowing how tight to get things.

For band clamps, light tapping with a rubber hammer can help seat the clamp without overstressing the nut.
Click to expand...
Most folks never realize the tension they are applying. In some applications, we did in fact have mandatory torque specs on clamps when I was in the field. Seating of everything is important. Temperature of parts being clamped together at the time can factor. A turn too many that can't be felt on the end of a wrench, as you previous used a short wrench but this time used a longer one or a ratchet, is where thumbknobs and springs help. If you leave the spring gaped, you are probably within acceptable range. Longitudinal cracking at the clamp lip base is pretty tell tale of over clamping force.
 
Toxophilite said:
Longitudinal cracking at the clamp lip base is pretty tell tale of over clamping force.
Click to expand...
Over tightening the clamp can cause issues, but the design is flawed, in my opinion.

That part flexes every time the pump is turned on or off and that causes repeated stress cycles that eventually create a crack.

The part needs to be much stronger to withstand the repeated pressure cycling.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JackInTexas and borjis
JamesW said:
Over tightening the clamp can cause issues, but the design is flawed, in my opinion.

That part flexes every time the pump is turned on or off and that causes repeated stress cycles that eventually create a crack.

The part needs to be much stronger to withstand the repeated pressure cycling.
Click to expand...
I also should add that the pump is over 30 years old. Except for shaft seals, diffuser O-ring and face plate O-ring Regular maintenance), there really have been no issues with this simple system.
 
  • Like
Reactions: borjis and JamesW
Toxophilite said:
Your clamp is missing the spring. That might have contributed to the cracked housing by over-tightening of the band. You might get away with some epoxy if tight right now.
Click to expand...
There was never a spring on that clamp. Those are on filters only. That pump has stood the test of time, despite some thinking it is a bad design. I have a customer with one about 30 years old that I recently put a variable-speed motor on with just a new seal, O rings. Your pump has handled millions of gallons of water and flexed hundreds of thousands times. Pre-98? Near 25 years? Good long service life. Should only need this part to be good. Can't be repaired.

Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas/Dura-Glas Tank Body (Volute) C176-47P1 replacement.​

 
  • Like
Reactions: JackInTexas
1poolman1 said:
There was never a spring on that clamp. Those are on filters only. That pump has stood the test of time, despite some thinking it is a bad design. I have a customer with one about 30 years old that I recently put a variable-speed motor on with just a new seal, O rings. Your pump has handled millions of gallons of water and flexed hundreds of thousands times. Pre-98? Near 25 years? Good long service life. Should only need this part to be good. Can't be repaired.

Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas/Dura-Glas Tank Body (Volute) C176-47P1 replacement.​

Click to expand...
Thanks for the info ...... yes.... almost 30 yrs old! Two homeowners before we bought the house seven years ago.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply