OmniLogic controller with a new t-cell installed, and the relay keeps going to OFF state, and current goes to 0.00a.
Anyone have thoughts on this??
Anyone have thoughts on this??
Aquarite SWG problem in Ontario
- Thread starter khooiveld
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,726
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Is the SWCG powered off when the pump is not running?
www.troublefreepool.com
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
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Yes I believe so…. But we run our pump 24/7 (at variable speeds based on time of day / if heater is on), so I don’t think that’s the issue.
When I manually switch the relay polarity in the OmniLogic controller - the cell turns on for about 45secs, and then turns itself off (see screenshot above).
Repeating the process switches the polarity, and the cell comes back to life in the opposite polarity for another 45secs - and then turns to off again.
When I manually switch the relay polarity in the OmniLogic controller - the cell turns on for about 45secs, and then turns itself off (see screenshot above).
Repeating the process switches the polarity, and the cell comes back to life in the opposite polarity for another 45secs - and then turns to off again.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,726
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Is the cell current immediately 0.00 when you change polarity for both polarities?
Is the cell clean?
What are the first 4 of the Hayward controls (OmniLogic) control box?
Is the cell clean?
What are the first 4 of the Hayward controls (OmniLogic) control box?
Cell is brand new (as I thought this was the original cause of why we were having problems).
Not sure what you mean by first 4 of the OmniLogic …. This is my panel for reference 
If the cell is clean with no scale, the actual salinity is probably 2,100 ppm and not 3,200 ppm.
You need to verify the salinity two new different ways.
I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a calibrated salinity/conductivity meter.
I suspect that the reading of 2,100 ppm is probably correct.
If the cell is clean with no scale, the actual salinity is probably 2,100 ppm and not 3,200 ppm.
You need to verify the salinity two new different ways.
I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a calibrated salinity/conductivity meter.
The label below means that the system has a 3 year warranty and the system was made on the 129th day of 2017.
When was it actually installed?
If the cell is clean with no scale, the actual salinity is probably 2,100 ppm and not 3,200 ppm.
You need to verify the salinity two new different ways.
I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a calibrated salinity/conductivity meter.
The label below means that the system has a 3 year warranty and the system was made on the 129th day of 2017.
When was it actually installed?
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We purchased the house (and pool) just last year….. however I believe the pool was installed end fall of 2017.
I will pick up a salinity tester this week - but any idea why the relay keeps turning off?
If the cell is clean with no scale, the actual salinity is probably 2,100 ppm and not 3,200 ppm.
You need to verify the salinity two new different ways.
I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a calibrated salinity/conductivity meter.
You need to verify the salinity two new different ways.
I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a calibrated salinity/conductivity meter.
The relay turns off because the average salinity is below 2,400 ppm.
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