Aquarite SWCG Lights shutting off

[asumrall]

Hey all, I've had a problem lately where my SWCG doesn't show any lights on after a few minutes. It continues to display the Salt level and I can go through the diagnostics button but I'm wondering if it needs to be replaced or if there's some trouble shooting I can do to potentially solve it. Everytime I turn the SWCG off and back on the Power and Generating light kick on and then shut off after only a minute or two. Is it possibly a bad salt cell causing it? The one currently installed is over 5 years old according to the previous owner (not sure how old due to purchasing the house last year). Since the display showing the salt level works I don't think it's anything on the main board but I wasn't sure what to check or how to check it. It's frustrating right now because I'm SLAM-ing my pool and the extra CL2 from the SWCG would be nice. Also it won't do any good to SLAM and then not have the SWCG working which would require me to use more bleach. Let me know if you have any questions and thank you!

Salt Level = 2800 (I know it's a little low but I'm not sure that's the problem) Will add salt after the SLAM is finished.

 

[JamesW]

Move the switch to Off and check the diagnostic readings. Then, move the switch to Auto and recheck the readings.

If the voltage is erratic, the thermistor is probably bad.

With the switch in the Off position, the voltage should be about 30 to 32 and steady.

When the switch is moved to Auto and the cell begins to generate, the voltage should be about 24 to 28 and fairly steady.

If the voltage is going below 24, the thermistor is bad.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

 

[asumrall]

The Voltage is all over the place. From as low as 1 up to 30. It's erratic while both off and on auto. I'll replace the thermistor as soon as I can get one in. Does that mean it's still producing chlorine while the lights are off or no?

Serial # of Cell =3E16356
Serial of box = *5A0707-1

Thanks for the quick reply. I just found where you suggested something similar on another thread, sorry I didn't see it during my search :-(

 

[JamesW]

The cell was made the 356th day if 2016. So, probably installed in 2017.

The box was made in July of 2007.

The thermistor is probably bad. The unit is not making chlorine.

 

[asumrall]

Thanks so much, James! Just an update my thermistor should be here tomorrow. I took advice from another thread and used a binder clip to compress the current thermistor and it's back up and working for now!

SLAM is almost complete, passing all tests just waiting on crystal clear water. Its a little cloudy still but hoping to be done in a day or two.

Hoping desoldering the thermistor isn't too difficult as I have the tools just have never had to desolder anything before. Thanks again!

 

[chiefwej]

I just cut the legs of the old one, bent them around the legs of the new one and soldered them at a 90 degree angle. Much quicker and easier than de soldering from the board. It also leaves it standing up away from the board for better cooling.

 

[mguzzy]

Yup.. that's the easiest way to solder the new one on. Its not like the old one is worth saving.

 

[asumrall]

I just cut the legs of the old one, bent them around the legs of the new one and soldered them at a 90 degree angle. Much quicker and easier than de soldering from the board. It also leaves it standing up away from the board for better cooling.

That's brilliant. So you cut the legs off near the old thermistor, bend them 90 degrees, bend the legs of the new one 90 degrees, then solder together? Am I understanding that right? Thanks so much I never would have thought of that... Reminds me to KISS (Keep it Simple, Stupid) which I have a problem doing. Always over complicating things...

 

[chiefwej]

Just bend the cut off legs of the old around the legs of the new and solder.
(sorry if image is rotated)