AquaRite generator not generating!

[George in Georgia]

Okay. On power up the no-flow LED glows. After 15 or 20 seconds flow starts, the check cell light illuminates briefly - then nothing! No indicators at all. I've just cleaned the cell w. HCl in the recommended fashion, no go. After 45 minutes on hold with Hayward I find that they don't have real tech support, at least for us lowly residential users. In the past their techs would guide you through the diagnostic codes, very helpful. I've reviewed a prior thread on this and I have the thermistors in hand if needed. I'll have a local pool shop check the cell today.

The problem happened suddenly, essentially overnight. We have had some thunderstorm, nothing close, no power losses. With a LOT of luck its that thermistor.

Replacing the PCB if needed doesn't worry me; back in the day I built two HeathKit color TVs, with picture tubes. Installing those big CRTs was the only "scary" part. I'll post the diagnostic codes when I have checked the cell. Gotta find my soldering pencil and the de-soldering wick....

This site is a wonderful resource! Keep up the good work.

 

[Tanner M]

I would guess it is a problem at the panel. There is a little current limiter that burns up that is soldered onto the board. The part number for it is digi key 570-1062-ND. Do a little search around the forum and you will find that the problem is pretty common. It can be fixed by soldering a new one in or replacing the board.

 

[Philo]

Could it be as simple as the replacing/checking the flow switch?

 

[Meadow]

Replacing the PCB if needed doesn't worry me; back in the day I built two HeathKit color TVs, with picture tubes. Installing those big CRTs was the only "scary" part.

CRT's implode not explode, but I hear yah! I started with the prehistoric vacuum tubes long before the hybrid. I still have my B&K 707 Dyna-Jet Tube Tester and B&K 470 CRT Tester/Rejuvenator. The HV Flyback x'former was adopted by modern technology and are still in use. Other third world countries still use the vacuum tubes on high powered radio transmitters.

But yeah, soldering would be an easy tasks for you. Please keep us posted.

 

[George in Georgia]

Okay, I've pulled the board, making notes as to what color wire goes where. The thermistor has a crack on one side, and the PCB is somewhat discolored where the thermistor is soldered in. Naturally I couldn't find my electronics tool box with the solder sucker and solder wick, so I'll make do with some stranded lamp cord to wick the solder, I hope! If this doesn't do the trick I suspect a new board is in order. From the looks of the board with all its surface mounted components any sort of servicing looks way beyond my abilities!

I note that the display board is sold separately. From the looks of the whole thing the display just plugs into/onto the main board, but VERY carefully! The electrical connections seem to be made via a 7 pin socket, which engages 7 elongated "pins" from the main board. The display is perhaps 1.5 inches above the main board. Plenty of chances to screw up mating the two!

BTW, as of only a few years ago Hayward would offer real telephone help, enabling me to verify that a new cell was needed. No more! When I asked them on the phone it seems that the stock answer is "We'll help you find a dealer." I sent them an email with their site's form, bemoaning the lack of real technical support for the end-user and "Walter" replied that I should check the site's FAQ (which I had, it's pretty much useless) and any concerns about the PCB should be left to a site visit by a technician.

 

[ping]

Replacing the thermistor will work, there are YouTube videos on how to do it.

 

[Meadow]

/\ what he said.

George,
While you can do without a solder sucker or wick if you're proficient in soldering, I would suggest for you to order the thermistor ahead of time. The Digi-Key part# is as follows 570-1062-ND for SL32 2R025 and 570-1105-ND for AS32 2R025 which has a wider lead wire. So check and see what type you have before placing an order.

The display board is a plug in type and secured in place by the plastic stand-off. Just make sure to align the pins when installing it back.

Also, youtube is bombarded with videos on how to repair the Aquarite board. Lots of helpful tips on how to replace the thermistor.

 

[George in Georgia]

Okay! I reinstalled the board, and while frantically stroking a rabbit's foot (the rabbit was NOT amused!) waited for the no-flow light to go out. Eureka! All systems go!It's been pumping chlorine for the past two days. I did have the good sense to put the extra thermistor of the two I'd bought in the controller box so I can find it if/when needed.

Many thanks for the help and encouragement! The Internet, for all its flaws, is a wonderful tool when good-hearted folks come together in a common cause.