Aquapure 1400 backboard or transformer problem

danman

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2016
58
Spring, Tx
#1
Hey everyone, need some advice / help again. In short I went out Friday to check my chems to find there was next to 0 chlorine in my pool. So I go and check my panel and it shows "LO" chlorine production and a 123 error code, which I looked up and that indicates a low power condition. So I got my PH in check and then added some liquid chlorine to get a handle on that. So I'm good with the chems back in balance. However I broke out my test manual that shows me the test points and what voltages I should have. I attached the link below. So here is my data,

Backboard Test Points
1 - 8: 75 VAC, actual reading 78
2 - 6: 65 VAC, actual reading 67
3 - 6: 21 VAC, actual reading 20
4 - 5: 120 mV, couldn't get a reading on my meter, could be user error.

While the cell is on I tested under load(green and black)on backboard I should get 22 - 28 volts. I get 4.
While the cell is on I tested the power cable to the cell and again I should get 22 - 28. I get 4.

Front board tests
holding R-Temp & Salinty should be 2.8, I get 2.7
holding Pool Temp & Salinty & R-Temp, should be 75, I get 74 degrees.
holding H-Temp & Salinty & chlorine prod rate arrow down, I could not get a reading just beeps

Based on the manual I did not understand where to test the transformer. So that's my main question. Power flows into the transformer from the breaker, and then into the backboard and out to the cell correct? If so, does this mean I have a bad transformer or bad backboard? Also do I need to be concerned, with these voltage deviations?

I hope this is enough information to find a resolution, but if not let me know and I'll try and get it.

Manual I used
http://https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
13,088
#2
What is your actual salinity as tested by a good salt test kit like a k-1766?

What is the water temperature?

What does your box show for temperature and salinity?

How old is the cell?

I suspect that the center pin has disconnected from the center plate.

Pull the cell and look very carefully at the plates using a good light. Check for eroded plates.

Feel the center pin to see if it's loose.

"LO" means low temperature cutoff.
 
OP
OP
D

danman

Well-known member
Sep 5, 2016
58
Spring, Tx
#3
my kit won't test salinity, I actually just ordered the taylor K-2006 and that should be here on the 25th. Water temp is around 77 - 79 at the moment. the box shows (at the panel) a salinity of 3.1, and a temp of about the same. I was told the cell could be 4 yrs old, but I'm unsure. last august I replaced the tri-flow sensor.

When you say center pin from the plate what does that mean? Does that mean inside the power cord or inside the cell? I had the cell of this saturday, because I read that if it was dirty that might cause the problem but it looks really clean to me.

I can go check the pin on the top and see if it's loose.

Why would I get the "LO"?

thanks for the response.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
13,088
#4
Check the plates for erosion. You have to look very carefully at the plates with a good light from both ends.

The serial number will tell you the age of the cell. For example, a S/N starting with F12 would have been made in 2012.

There are 3 pins that stick out of the cell. The plug has 3 holes that go over the pins.

The center pin is welded to the center plate. The two outer pins are welded to the outer plates.

Typically, the plates will erode where the pins connect and the the pins will lose contact with the plates, which can cause the low current error you're seeing.
 

robl45

Well-known member
Oct 27, 2007
787
Parkland, FL
#5
Hey everyone, need some advice / help again. In short I went out Friday to check my chems to find there was next to 0 chlorine in my pool. So I go and check my panel and it shows "LO" chlorine production and a 123 error code, which I looked up and that indicates a low power condition. So I got my PH in check and then added some liquid chlorine to get a handle on that. So I'm good with the chems back in balance. However I broke out my test manual that shows me the test points and what voltages I should have. I attached the link below. So here is my data,

Backboard Test Points
1 - 8: 75 VAC, actual reading 78
2 - 6: 65 VAC, actual reading 67
3 - 6: 21 VAC, actual reading 20
4 - 5: 120 mV, couldn't get a reading on my meter, could be user error.

While the cell is on I tested under load(green and black)on backboard I should get 22 - 28 volts. I get 4.
While the cell is on I tested the power cable to the cell and again I should get 22 - 28. I get 4.

Front board tests
holding R-Temp & Salinty should be 2.8, I get 2.7
holding Pool Temp & Salinty & R-Temp, should be 75, I get 74 degrees.
holding H-Temp & Salinty & chlorine prod rate arrow down, I could not get a reading just beeps

Based on the manual I did not understand where to test the transformer. So that's my main question. Power flows into the transformer from the breaker, and then into the backboard and out to the cell correct? If so, does this mean I have a bad transformer or bad backboard? Also do I need to be concerned, with these voltage deviations?

I hope this is enough information to find a resolution, but if not let me know and I'll try and get it.

Manual I used
http://https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-aqua-pure-error-codes.pdf
I believe you can measure the voltage out points to the cell with it disconnected from the board as long as the unit is actually in on mode. Set it to 100 percent and test the connections straight on the board with the cell disconnected. It sounds like the board is bad. When I fixed mine, I found used ones on ebay for around 80 dollars. I had to do the board and the transformer since the plug connecting them had melted.
 

Kent M

New member
Jun 12, 2018
4
Folsom CA
#6
I believe you can measure the voltage out points to the cell with it disconnected from the board as long as the unit is actually in on mode. Set it to 100 percent and test the connections straight on the board with the cell disconnected. It sounds like the board is bad. When I fixed mine, I found used ones on ebay for around 80 dollars. I had to do the board and the transformer since the plug connecting them had melted.
I'm on my 3rd backboard. I bought a new cell and sensor last year. They are clean and the pins and cable look good. When I got the 123 code I replaced the backboard. Everything was fine for a month. Now I'm getting the 123 error code again. When I went to check it out the pin connector was melted on the two cables coming from the transformer. Is the problem with the transformer or downstream(cable, connections, sensor, cell,etc)
Any help is greatly appreciated

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