Aqualink RS6 Controller having issues

zz28zz

0
Mar 26, 2018
88
Austin, Tx
Inside control panel had all LEDs illuminated, including 2 with no corresponding button that can be seen thru the cover. Screen shows 6700 Rev C. Display backlight also turns on and off randomly when issue is present.
Had this issue before. Tinkered with it some (Rpl 9V batt, disconnected spa-side remote, cycled power) and it went away for months.

It's intermittently back again. Thought issue was with the inside controller board. While it was having issues, looking at backside of circuit board, I found a 5V regulator (TO-220 package). Measured incoming voltage via the red wire that's supplied from the outside panel. It was 5.3V or so. Between the red power wire and the 5V regulator there's a power diode, so voltage drops another 0.7V down to 4.6V at the 5V regulator input. Output voltage from the 5V regulator is 4.3 volts. Thinking this is a bit low.

Since it's nice outside today, the controller is of course working perfectly, but wanted to dig a little deeper anyway. Went to outside panel and found the 4-wire bundle from the inside controller. Located the Red wire and measured voltage at the terminal block at 9.85V. Disconnected the Red wire and voltage at terminal block rose to 9.93V. Re-connected the Red wire and voltage dropped back down to 9.85V. Went inside and measured Red wire voltage at 7.58V, so a 2.3V drop over abt 25 ft of wire run. Went back outside and removed the Red wire again and placed an ammeter in-line. Measured the start-up current of the inside control panel at 248mA and after a couple of seconds, it dropped to 128mA and was steady. Using the voltage drop across each end of the Red wire (2.3V) and the current flow (128mA), I calculate ~18 ohms of resistance.

When the inside controller is working good, the 5V regulator has abt 6.8V present at it's input and 5.1V on the output.

To summarize, I believe it's one of 3 possibilities:
1. Inside controller is pulling too much current when it's having issues.
2. Outside control panel isn't supplying sufficient current to maintain the proper voltage.
3. Red wire resistance is excessive intermittently. (seems unlikely)

Suppose I'll have to wait for it to act up again and re-check current demand from the inside controller.

I ordered a new inside control panel circuit board, but now I'm starting to think the issue may be with the outside panel..

Anyone happen to know what the voltage to the inside panel (Red wire) is supposed to be or what normal current draw is for the inside control panel via the Red wire??

Thx!
 

See page 17 in Jandy Aqualink Troubleshooting Manual.


The microprocessor was hit by a power surge. Turn off all power to the system. (If the PCB is prior to Revision N, disconnect the nine (9) volt battery.) Wait two (2) minutes and then turn the power on. If this frees up the system, you will need to reset the time and date, except with a Revision N board. Programming will not be lost. It is advisable to install a Surge Protection Kit

See Section 5. Troubleshooting on page 32 of Jandy Aqualink RS Installation Manual.[54]

From Check Section 5. Troubleshooting on page 32
SymptomProblemPossible Solution
All LEDs are on at the control panel and the part # and revision letter of the control panel software are displayed. The override switches at the power center operate as they should.Control panel is not communicating with the power center PCB.Check the two center wires (black & yellow) of the four conductor cable. Also check the installation of the CPU Board on the power center PCB. If the PPD is not seated correctly the system will not communicate.
All LEDs are on at the control panel and the part # and revision letter are displayed, but override switches at the power center do not operate at all.1. Damaged or improperly installed CPU Board.
2. Damaged power center PCB.
1. Check alignment of the CPU Board. 2. If CPU Board is installed correctly, replace the power center PCB.
 
No issues found with any of the connections for the 4 wires. I did see on page 2 of the Jandy troubleshooting doc where it says
"The Controller is supplied 10 VDC from the power center via the outside two wires (red and green) of the
4 conductor cable
.". This is very close to what I see when it's operating correctly, but I suspect the voltage is dropping significantly when it starts acting up based on what I saw at the controller.

The wire resistance does seem a bit high at ~18 ohms over 25ft. An online wire size/resistance calculator shows that for a 25 ft run, I'd have to be using 38ga wire for this resistance to be normal. Not sure what size I have but looks close to 20ga. 20ga should be under 1 ohm (0.25 ohm) at 25 ft.
 
I would replace the wire before buying a new controller.

I have had the wire go bad to an All Button controller when I had an Aqualink.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zz28zz
Found a helpful link at the bottom of this thread.

I was getting ~17 ohms one-way (at least on the power wire). Link says it should be under 10 ohms round-trip for the 2 comm wires.
Appears my wiring resistance may be too high. Need to find some 4-conductor wiring. Wonder if the old-school phone wire would work??
 
Any 4 conductor wiring will work.

You can try phone wire, but it is thin and will have more resistance and voltage drop with a long length. Phones run at higher voltage and can stand more voltage loss over a length.
 
Played around with this some more yesterday. It appears my voltmeter readings were off due to where I probed. I was using the terminal strip screw heads. Turns out the "well" where the wire goes in is a much better place to measure from. I'm now consistently seeing 9.9V outside and 9.8V inside (red wire). This is with the inside controller working perfectly.

Tied the 2 inner comm wires together outside and measured 1.2 ohms round trip from inside (looping back from one wire to the other). So that's fine. I'll have to wait until it malfunctions again to troubleshoot any further. I'm suspicious of the outside PCB.

I've been thru 3 or 4 spa side controllers over ~10 years that appeared to have died. They connect to the same terminals on the outside board as the inside controller. Now I'm wondering if they were really OK and the 10Vdc from the outside PCB was drooping (plus it had a much longer cable run).

Anyway, a new inside PCB just arrived. Seller said if it's connected to power, the warranty is void so I'll have to leave it inside it's sealed bag until I'm convinced it's really bad. Return window shrinks every day. Grrrr..