Aqualink RS 8 actuator signal shows only 12v

[tavacska]

I have an automated Auqalink RS8 to control one pump with two actuators for pool and SPA. It works fine for years, but it suddenly stopped working for spa mode. The actuator for pool/spa inlet stopped working. The other one for return works fine.

After testing for a while, the problem was rooted to the RS8 system. The two actuators are connected to the RS board separately with 3 line connector. White/Red/Black. The white/black is 24 volts, but the red/black is only 12 volts for the stop-working actuator.

I bet it is not connecting loose problem. Any suggestions for the next step?

Thanks.

 

[HermanTX]

Switch the connection for the 2 actuators and put into Spa or Pool mode? If the current non-functional actuator turns then that confirms it is on the RS PCB. The current functional actuator should not work in this test.

 

[tavacska]

After swapping the two actuators, I discovered that the functional actuator continued to operate correctly, while the broken one remained non-functional. Fortunately, the PCB board appears to be in good condition.

I further tested the manual button located behind the actuator, and it demonstrated proper functionality, stopping the actuator fully in both directions. This indicates that the micro switch, capacitor and the motor are also functioning correctly.

Upon retesting the voltage on the red/black wires, I found that it remained at 12 volts, unlike the functional actuator which showed 24 volts. This suggests there may be a short circuit in the red wire. To troubleshoot the issue systematically, I have ordered new micro switches to eliminate them as potential causes one by one. I just don't get it where it could be wrong.

Thank you.

 

[tavacska]

The issue has been successfully resolved.

The problem arose from a broken manual switch on the back of the device, which was caused by corrosion.

Unfortunately, finding a suitable replacement for the switch in the market proved to be challenging. As a viable alternative, the solution involved soldering two jumping wires, effectively restoring the functionality of the switch and bringing the device back to life.

 

[HermanTX]

The issue has been successfully resolved.

The problem arose from a broken manual switch on the back of the device, which was caused by corrosion.

Unfortunately, finding a suitable replacement for the switch in the market proved to be challenging. As a viable alternative, the solution involved soldering two jumping wires, effectively restoring the functionality of the switch and bringing the device back to life.

Thanks for sharing the solution.