Aqualink can no long start the Ultratemp 120 after replacing swith panel and bezel

pool_runnings

Member
Apr 15, 2020
13
Philly Suburbs
Aqualink RS and an Ultratemp 120
Opened for the season and everything was running fine. Could initiate the heater and have it run with no issues from both the panel in service mode and remotely in auto mode. Realized the up arrow on the Ultratemp was broken so I ordered a just new switch panel and bezel (maintaining the old heater control board). After I installed it the heater powered up fine (not running just powered up) and the up arrow was working properly. Went to turn the heater on from the Aqualink panel in service mode and nothing. The light on the panel is not lighting and does not initiate the fan. Same result in auto, and can not trun the heater on. Any ideas? While I shut the breaker off for the heater I may have forgotten to shot the power off for the Aqualink at the panel. Can I damage the board by and pulling the 'com' and spa' leads off the back of the ultatemp board?
 
Confirm this is a Pentair Heat Pump controlled by an Aqualink system?

Is the HP connected to the Aqualink by an TR-485 data cable or by the "firemans switch"?
 
If you shorted the data lines with the power on you may have fried the driver chip.

Easiest thing is to switch the heater to being controlled by the 2 wire fireman’s switch instead of the data line. Heater control on the Aqualink should work the same.
 
And which connections are on the HP since I am confused about which you are using...

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It is connected where you circled (I was wrong about '8' and '9' earlier). On the HP control board the 'com' is connected to '2' on the Aqualink and the 'spa' is connected to '1'.

And does the "Temp1" or "Temp2" on the Aqualink turn "red" when you click it (indicating heating has been called for)?

Do you have a multimeter where you can measure the 2 wires to see if they are outputting a signal?

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HP control board.png

There is no indication that heat is being called for. On the aqualink or HP. When in service mode I click the heater button and the light does not turn on. However, when I turn he breaker back on for the aqualink and it goes thru the start up cycle the heater light does flash. Would that indicate that the board is not fried?

I cannot find my multimeter so at the moment, no. But given that the light is not functioning to indicate that it is on, I am assuming there's no signal.
 
What Aqualink do you have? How do you control it? Do you have a PDA or Web Interface? Do you have that screen I posted above? Aqualink uses its own pool temp probe to determine if the heater set point 1 or 2 needs to be cycled on/off. Do you see the "Pool Temp" like I show above? If you go to the heater set points, what are they?
 

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It's old school. I have a one touch inside the house. I'm assuming it's from the early 2000s. I do not have the screen that you posted above (but would love it!).

Also, I thought it was unrelated, but maybe not - the temp sensor for the water connected to the Aqualink is bad. It's reading 144 currently. Can that prevent it from starting? I am getting a correct reading from the HP screen.

How do you start it in stand alone mode? I assuming I start it somehow the the HP itself?
 
It's old school. I have a one touch inside the house. I'm assuming it's from the early 2000s. I do not have the screen that you posted above (but would love it!).

Also, I thought it was unrelated, but maybe not - the temp sensor for the water connected to the Aqualink is bad. It's reading 144 currently. Can that prevent it from starting? I am getting a correct reading from the HP screen.

How do you start it in stand alone mode? I assuming I start it somehow the the HP itself?

If the water temp sensor is bad then it won't be able to start the heater. So lol yeah, if the water temp is reading 144 and you set your heater to 85, it thinks the water is already too hot and won't call for more heat!

I don't know about that heater but it should have a local mode when you have no automation. Scroll through the menu buttons and see what you can find.

You can also try swapping the air temp probe with the water temp probe and see if that will cause the heater to go on.
 
So swapping out the funtioning air sensor for the malfunctioning water sensor, enabled the aqualink to seemingly turn the heater on as evidence by the indicator light now coming on. Except the HP did nothing. I then turned the remote off at the HP and it does run properly in stand alone mode. Something else is preventing the aqualink from communicating with the HP. Maybe the cable is shorted out somewhere? It is quite fraile and may have been damaged since I've been messing with things.
 
You have a multimeter to check the continuity of the cable?
 
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