AquaBright Ecofinish--Alternative to Acid Washing

xyz

0
Gold Supporter
Sep 8, 2016
634
Escondido/CA
So the short story is, so far, I like the Acquabright! My pool has never looked or felt anywhere near this good since I've owned it (~6+years). I'll post pics and videos later.

So here is the long story (what the heck, in case someone else is wondering).

So my nice soft SWG pool water seemed to be getting less and less soft. It seemed to be getting more harsh on my eyes over the summer months.

Then I see my pool guy dumping gallons and gallons of stuff in my pool. So I asked him, how is the water? He says turn the SWG to 100%. I say it already is. So I change my pump run time to 16 hrs/day.

So a few weeks later, I happened to see him dumping lots of chlorine in again. Still he says turn up the SWG. I tell him it is already 23hrs@100%. He tells me how nice and soft the water is if I would just use the SWG.

So I check the SWG. Well it is about 5 yrs old, and they last 3-5 years, and so it was done. I'm fairly certain it had not been working since early to mid summer.

So with trials and tribulations, a new IC60, streamlined plumbing, and a new DE filter, I was hooked on TFP.

After a few weeks, a SLAM, and many robot filter changes (removing DE from my pool), my water is...

Crystal, Crystal, clear. A friend of mine said it was as clear as his water that he just had RO-ed.

All is good, right? Nope. Now I can actually see the old plaster, and and the mountains of calcium deposits. With my CSI slightly negative (now), I'm getting handfuls of calcium flakes and pieces in the robot about every other day.

So I acid washed my Spa. Wow, with clear water, and a fairly clean Spa, that is inviting.

So i ask about someone who could recommend a person to acid wash, and Brian tells me--hey, how about AcquaBright?

I looked into it, and it sounds like the BMW of finishes. It is inert, triple bonded to the surface (mechanical, chemical, and thermal) and my Plaster was never going to look new, so I was hooked.

So Brian came down and did a great job applying it.

In summary, so far I'm very happy with it, so far. I'll post more info as I use it more. Not much of the season left, but for the first couple days it is really very nice.

Since it is inert (thermally applied polymer), I no longer have to worry about Plaster issues. And while it may fade over many years, it should fade fairly uniformly, since it is 100% underwater.

The surface is hard to describe. It is not pure polymer. It has a fine silica (or something like that--think slightly coarse sand of various colors), so what you might think would be really slippery (like a liner pool), is not. Neither though is it like sandpaper. Kind of a mix of the two.

Anyway, more pics and vids to follow.
 
Always nice to hear real life use! Were you there to watch it being put on? That would be something to see!

I am looking forward to hearing your long term thoughts.

How about posting a before and after picture of the pool? That would be neat to see.

Kim:kim:
 
Not only was he there but also provided a great deal of help. He was hands on with nearly every phase of the project and I am convinced that the final product would not be what it is today without his generosity and assistance.
 
Pretty awesome pool!! Color is perfect. Can't wait to hear more details on your chemistry usage...keep good records!!

PS - nice DIY install on the QuadDE filter, I love mine.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I hope you keep posting and share your test results every once in a while especially as compared to your old plaster.

I LOVE the color!

Kim:kim:

Definitely!

So far I only have a gut feel as far as chemicals, because it is taking me a while to get to it. But my tap PH is very high, so I added 1/2 gal MA. When I got around to testing it, it was far lower than I expected. So my gut tells me I'll need less MA than before. I'll post some numbers once I get it dialed in.

I was was running my IntelliPH at 55% with the plaster. I have set it to 10% to start, and will ease up to the balanced setting as I see how it goes.

- - - Updated - - -

Picture in Post #4 where your daughter's back foot is located. It looks like a crack running down from the light.

Ah! No, not a crack. I think it was a rivulet of water still draining from the niche.
 
Do you keep the water balance based on a plaster pool or a vinyl/fiberglass pool? Since it isn't plaster now you won't need to deal with adding calcium, will you?

I set poolmath to vinyl, since both AquaBright and Vinyl are essentially inert. Since my tap water already has a CH of 180, I -think- I'm all set. i also think you will want -some- CH otherwise you will have trouble with a CSI that is too negative. The experts will hopefully chime in.


EDIT--also take this with a grain of salt since I am only just getting my CYA up from zero. I'm shooting for 40 for the winter, per Brian's recommendation.

- - - Updated - - -

PS - nice DIY install on the QuadDE filter, I love mine.

I really like my quad also. It -seems- somehow to have gotten even better flow performance since installed-- I can now run my pump down to 750 RPM before the flow switch trips.
 
I set poolmath to vinyl, since both AquaBright and Vinyl are essentially inert. Since my tap water already has a CH of 180, I -think- I'm all set. i also think you will want -some- CH otherwise you will have trouble with a CSI that is too negative. The experts will hopefully chime in.

- - - Updated - - -



I really like my quad also. It -seems- somehow to have gotten even better flow performance since installed-- I can now run my pump down to 750 RPM before the flow switch trips.

Using vinyl surface recommendations is fine. CH and CSI matters more for your SWG than your pool surface. Just aim for a slightly negative CSI (~ -0.1) and you'll be fine.

My Quad always has slightly higher pressure after a fresh tear down and recharge and then, over the course of a few days afterwards, the normal pressure will drop by about a pound or so. Not sure why that is either but it always does that.
 
To expand on negative CSI. The risk of negative CSI exists only in plaster pools. That is because negative CSI, more than -0.6, can cause calcium to dissolve from the plaster into the water leaving pits called etching. There is no plaster to dissolve from non-plaster pools. CH at 180 is a good number for your pool.
 
There is still grout to deal will so CSI will never go away away. I'm not much of a fan of adhering to the traditional recommended levels here in the southwest (high calcium fill water, high evaporation, low rainfall) and would never suggest adding calcium.

While the AquaBright surface should not be impacted by high or low CSI, the SWG, waterline, and heater will all benefit from maintaining a CSI in the -0.3 to -0.1 range.

Your CH will rise quickly enough that you will soon be within the recommended levels.

The 40ppm CYA recommendation had more to do with the CYA you already had on hand. You can certainly go to 80ppm now if you'd like.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.