Aqua rite not generating salt PCB issue?

[rolsim3]

You have sw r1.4, the symptoms correlate to a missing dc supply to the cell. Do you hear the relay "click" shortly after moving the switch from off to auto?
If it does, measure the dc voltage between pins 1 and 2 as shown in the link from post #2 "Troubleshooting the Main Board"
If the current is missing, inspect the Thermistor and K1 or K2 solder and the connector.
You can replace the Varistor later should you decide to keep the PCB.

I would have to agree that unless that varistor shorted and took out a fuse somewhere that the unit should fully power up without it.

I fear that the surge that took the MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) could have taken something else upstream out. But at least you know it's the DC power supply section so I would still say it's repairable. Do you know how to diagnose component problems on low voltage electronics?

If not, I would cut out the damaged MOV and see if that helps. If not, consider a new board, unfortunately.

Edit:
It appears the thermistors control DC current. That is worth looking into as well. You might want to order all three parts and do what we call a "shotgun" repair and see if then works. Good luck

I do not know how to diagnose component problems on a low voltage system. I do own a rudimentary voltmeter. I have ordered the thermoster and varister kit. I will pull the main when it powers down and inspect for other damage. I noticed a hairline fracture in thermoster as well. Will post more pics. Thank you all for chiming in!

 

[rolsim3]

The voltage is good, so the thermistor is probably good.

Check the back of the circuit board and touch up any bad solder joints.

If you move the switch to Off and then back to Auto, what happens with the voltage and current before the unit shuts off?

Nothing....off, auto, superclorinate. 31.4 voltage.

 

[JamesW]

Ok, I would check the board for a failed solder joint and touch it up. Also, replace the varistor.

 

[JamesW]

When you had everything apart, did you make sure that all of the wires were put back correctly?

Do you have a picture of the whole board?

Check the 20 amp fuse.

 

[rolsim3]

 

[rolsim3]

Scortched marks on retainer clip off what looks to be K1.

 

[JamesW]

I don't see anything wrong with the back.

The post that holds the display board is next to a relay. Maybe replace the relay.

It might be worthwhile replacing the board vs. spending a lot more time on fixing this one.

 

[rolsim3]

I don't see anything wrong with the back.

The post that holds the display board is next to a relay. Maybe replace the relay.

It might be worthwhile replacing the board vs. spending a lot more time on fixing this one.

I have ordered the repair kit. I'll give it one shot them move to replace if that doesn't work. Thank you so much for all of your time and advice.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

@OP, please take a closer look at the K1 solder joint (circled in red). Use a magnifying lens if you cannot spot the loose solder. This K1 relay solder joint carries the 31VDC supply to the cell via connector pins 1&3.
All it needs is a reflow. Won't hurt to give it a try!

 

[rolsim3]

@OP, please take a closer look at the K1 solder joint (circled in red). Use a magnifying lens if you cannot spot the loose solder. This K1 relay solder joint carries the 31VDC supply to the cell via connector pins 1&3.
All it needs is a reflow. Won't hurt to give it a try!

Thank you for the suggestion. Sorry for this new question, but what is a reflow?

 

[ajw22]

Sorry for this new question, but what is a reflow?

Heat up the point with a solder iron until the solder gets molten then let it cool. Reheat it but don’t add any new solder.