Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amps
- Thread starter runcdm
- Start date
Just repaired mine as well. A few years ago had the same problem,but needed a board that would support the Aqua Pod,so never repaired it!!
Was wondering if the firmware can be updated on these boards
Thanks for everyone for the good work!
Was wondering if the firmware can be updated on these boards
Thanks for everyone for the good work!
When we do re solder do you take out the old solder and do a fresh one with the gun?
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp
This post may be 6 years old, but today sir you are my hero.
This post may be 6 years old, but today sir you are my hero.
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp
I agree with Joe. This an old post, but what a great one. I had the same thing happen to me today. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Saved me at least $800
I agree with Joe. This an old post, but what a great one. I had the same thing happen to me today. Fixed it in 5 minutes. Saved me at least $800
Hey alright! We're glad TFP is saving y'all lots of dough! Have a look at all these nice benefits if you throw a little TFP's way, CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!!
Re: Aqua Logic Salt Too High - Cholrinator Off High Salt/Amp
Just did this exact repair today 5/29/17!! Worked like a charm. Thank you so much!
Just did this exact repair today 5/29/17!! Worked like a charm. Thank you so much!
I'm new here but I too have the same issue with my salt system,,,High Salt / Amps. Would the burnt solder point be the problem if I'm still reading High amps on my unit? I can confirm my salt level is 3100 when I check it under diagnostics and run the instant salt / amp test.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,886
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Welcome to the forum.
Usually the solder joint causes the opposite problem. Low current, low salt or power is off to the cell.
The high salt warning comes on when the current exceeds 8 amps. This can be caused by high salt but also by high water temperatures. Do you have solar or a heater that when turned on causes this problem?
Usually the solder joint causes the opposite problem. Low current, low salt or power is off to the cell.
The high salt warning comes on when the current exceeds 8 amps. This can be caused by high salt but also by high water temperatures. Do you have solar or a heater that when turned on causes this problem?
I went straight home and checked the solder point that was pictured and described on this forum and sure enough, mine was burnt out. I was able to re-solder the burnt point and started the system back up. The delay counted down and bam, it worked perfectly! I couldn't have done this without all of you helping & posting here. This has saved me hundreds of dollars on repair cost! I have attached a picture of what my board looked like before I soldered it back.
hey guys,
so i have the same problem. was ready high salt/amps. When i run the diagnostic it ready just over 40 Volts and 10.04 amps.
i removed motherboard and sure enough the pin on the k1 relay had a burnt up solder with no other visual damage to the board. I re soldered it and same thing. ive now resoldered it multiple times cleaning up the board contacts first and no luck.
salt cell is brand new.
any ideas?
so i have the same problem. was ready high salt/amps. When i run the diagnostic it ready just over 40 Volts and 10.04 amps.
i removed motherboard and sure enough the pin on the k1 relay had a burnt up solder with no other visual damage to the board. I re soldered it and same thing. ive now resoldered it multiple times cleaning up the board contacts first and no luck.
salt cell is brand new.
any ideas?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,886
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hi...
I need help...
I have a P4 AquaL ogic and I am having a message of High Salt / Amps.
This started 2 weeks ago when the entire system failed. I thought first that my pump which was making a lot of noise (probably the beering) was broken. So, I have this Hayward 2 speed 1.5hp pump replaced by an Hayward Variable speed Sp26000 pump. The pump has been connected to the P4 by a technician and when got back from work I had this message.
As they told me that I may need to have the P4 main board replaced, I went on internet and found out this forum. So, since the section of the relay was burned, I put a little glob of solder on the back of the card and I changed the fusible (20 to 15 amp). Unfortunnately that didn't resolved the problem. I removed the card and went to an electronic store where the replaced the relay and ensure that all transistor and other circuits were good. Again it didn't change the issue.
My panel shows 2400 ppm but the pool store reads 3500 ppm on a water sample. They said that this should not be the problem because the aqualogic panel reads 2400 ppm.
My cell (C15) was replaced a month ago and she was working fine as I did a super chlorinate for 24 hours to bring my pool water to green to clear. This was I always do in the Spring.
So, any suggestion? Since my card has been verified and fix with the relay replaced, the cell is new and as well as the pump.
Thanks for any help.
André
I need help...
I have a P4 AquaL ogic and I am having a message of High Salt / Amps.
This started 2 weeks ago when the entire system failed. I thought first that my pump which was making a lot of noise (probably the beering) was broken. So, I have this Hayward 2 speed 1.5hp pump replaced by an Hayward Variable speed Sp26000 pump. The pump has been connected to the P4 by a technician and when got back from work I had this message.
As they told me that I may need to have the P4 main board replaced, I went on internet and found out this forum. So, since the section of the relay was burned, I put a little glob of solder on the back of the card and I changed the fusible (20 to 15 amp). Unfortunnately that didn't resolved the problem. I removed the card and went to an electronic store where the replaced the relay and ensure that all transistor and other circuits were good. Again it didn't change the issue.
My panel shows 2400 ppm but the pool store reads 3500 ppm on a water sample. They said that this should not be the problem because the aqualogic panel reads 2400 ppm.
My cell (C15) was replaced a month ago and she was working fine as I did a super chlorinate for 24 hours to bring my pool water to green to clear. This was I always do in the Spring.
So, any suggestion? Since my card has been verified and fix with the relay replaced, the cell is new and as well as the pump.
Thanks for any help.
André
- May 3, 2007
- 16,886
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
What is the amp reading in the diagnostic menu. If it is above 8 amps, it will trigger that alarm. Actual or displayed salt level does not matter. Only amps.
It is indeed over 8 amps.. Actually it is 10.04 amps. But how do we get it down? Other then the board which was verified et fixed (relay replaced) is there a cable or anything else, I can look at. Thanks
- May 3, 2007
- 16,886
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
There is either too much salt in the water OR there may be short somewhere on the board or perhaps the cell itself. Rise out the cell and make sure there is nothing stuck between the plates.
Make sure nothing is shorted on the board too.
Make sure nothing is shorted on the board too.