Any idea what this is?
- Thread starter Ripper70
- Start date
LOL, obviously I had to Google that to know what a "check valve on a Hartford Loop" was... found a thread that mentions it....
www.troublefreepool.com
Still not entirely sure what it is, but I hope that OP finds something useful in this??
Maddie
Hartford loop / check valve considerations
I understand the concept of a Hartford loop, and I understand that for maximum effectiveness it should be inside the spa wall. What I'm having a tough time with is that my PB is advising that he doesn't like putting them in the spa wall as he says they require a check valve on the wet side of...
www.troublefreepool.com
Still not entirely sure what it is, but I hope that OP finds something useful in this??
Maddie
70,
It also does not appear to be connected to the suction side of your pump, so unlikely to be the reason for air in your system.. Of course it could just be the pic.. Where does the pipe come from and where does it go???
Jim R.
It also does not appear to be connected to the suction side of your pump, so unlikely to be the reason for air in your system.. Of course it could just be the pic.. Where does the pipe come from and where does it go???
Jim R.
Well. I'm assuming it goes to a return line. There was, at one time, a chlorinator to the right of the check valve that I removed because it was leaking and I didn't use it. Although the clear plastic cover is hard to see through now, it is transparent enough for me to see bubbles bouncing around in there. I guess the Hartford Loop was installed for the chlorinator? I dunno.
I've considered cutting that loop out also. The short pipe between the two elbows at the top of the loop is some kind of flexible tubing that looks rotted and could become a problem soon. I couldn't figure out why it was there in the first place. It's also in the way when using the wrench to remove the filter cover, which is why I considered cutting it out.
It's a mess, I know. Kinda like me. Nothing but patch, patch, patch.
I've considered cutting that loop out also. The short pipe between the two elbows at the top of the loop is some kind of flexible tubing that looks rotted and could become a problem soon. I couldn't figure out why it was there in the first place. It's also in the way when using the wrench to remove the filter cover, which is why I considered cutting it out.
It's a mess, I know. Kinda like me. Nothing but patch, patch, patch.
Ripper, can you give us a couple more shots of your equipment pad so we can see the whole setup?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,852
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Bubbles bouncing around in the top of the check valve is normal. The check valve housing is larger then the pipes in and out and some air will get captured there. The water flow through the CV is not so strong as to sweep the air at the top out.
If you think you have an air leak I suggest you go look at the suction side of your pump. See Suction Side Air Leaks - Trouble Free Pool
If you think you have an air leak I suggest you go look at the suction side of your pump. See Suction Side Air Leaks - Trouble Free Pool
Green arrow is the valve for a waterfall. Red arrow is for a now defunct pump/auto vacuum. Blue arrow was for the main drain. Also defunct.
There is a gas line that was installed but I never saw any heater. Don't think the previous owner ever installed a heater, but I can't be 100% certain. There was, as I stated earlier, an in-line chlorinator downstream of the check valve that I took out last season because it leaked and I stopped using it when I came across this site.
If there is a gas line, then I think that there was probably a heater.
The loop really doesn't make sense otherwise.
The height and spacing are about what you would have for a heater.
I suspect that the heater was removed and the lines were just connected.
All of the plumbing looks bad.
I would redo all of it.
Do you have a booster pump for a cleaner?
The loop really doesn't make sense otherwise.
The height and spacing are about what you would have for a heater.
I suspect that the heater was removed and the lines were just connected.
All of the plumbing looks bad.
I would redo all of it.
Do you have a booster pump for a cleaner?
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It is possible that there was a heater, but what I know about the guy I bought the house from, he was more likely to let a heater rot and rust in place than have it removed. More likely he never got around to installing one and/or figured the money to install and run was more than he wanted to spend.
I removed the booster pump and got rid of the cleaner. It was old and decrepit. I've opted for one of those suction side, creepy crawler type cleaners and am fine using that along with an occasional vacuuming using a traditional hose attached to the skimmer port. I really inherited a much neglected system and have simply applied quick fixes to the plumbing at the start of every season since we moved in (now our 4th summer).
I'd love to professionally redo all the plumbing but don't have the budget for it. Since we've moved in I've already replaced the pump, re-plumbed our waterfall feature and two years ago had a catastrophe that required replacing all the coping and the liner. That was a $7,000 job. I'm hoping to figure out if I can get the system to run as effectively as possible with a DIY approach and make do with what I have to work with. I can add/redo/remove and execute basic PVC plumbing myself but am sometimes ignorant about what the system that I have needs most.
I removed the booster pump and got rid of the cleaner. It was old and decrepit. I've opted for one of those suction side, creepy crawler type cleaners and am fine using that along with an occasional vacuuming using a traditional hose attached to the skimmer port. I really inherited a much neglected system and have simply applied quick fixes to the plumbing at the start of every season since we moved in (now our 4th summer).
I'd love to professionally redo all the plumbing but don't have the budget for it. Since we've moved in I've already replaced the pump, re-plumbed our waterfall feature and two years ago had a catastrophe that required replacing all the coping and the liner. That was a $7,000 job. I'm hoping to figure out if I can get the system to run as effectively as possible with a DIY approach and make do with what I have to work with. I can add/redo/remove and execute basic PVC plumbing myself but am sometimes ignorant about what the system that I have needs most.
Why would they run a gas line if they were not going to install a heater?
The plumbing lines up with what a heater would use. The plumbing really only makes sense if there was a heater.
In any case, it's basically irrelevant now.
You can open the check valve and remove the flapper if you think that it's causing a problem.
The plumbing lines up with what a heater would use. The plumbing really only makes sense if there was a heater.
In any case, it's basically irrelevant now.
You can open the check valve and remove the flapper if you think that it's causing a problem.
Well, either way, I have no plans of installing a heater so, what if I eliminated everything in the plumbing from between the arrows? Do I still need the check valve and Hartford loop? Can I just cut all that stuff out?
You can cut out the loop and the check valve. The loop is not actually a Hartford loop. A Hartford loop goes to an air line, not a water line.
The only reason that it is there is because there was probably a heater.
When they removed the heater, it was the easiest way to make the plumbing work without replumbing a lot.
The only reason that it is there is because there was probably a heater.
When they removed the heater, it was the easiest way to make the plumbing work without replumbing a lot.
JamesW is not incorrect, a by the book hartford loop is for balancing steam condensate.
And I agree with him, chop it all down to the risers.
And I agree with him, chop it all down to the risers.
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