Another power supply question for ic40

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R

RushT

Member
Apr 16, 2022
16
DFW
Pool isn’t happy right now. No power to pump or ic40. 12Amp breaker in the easytouch panel keeps tripping. Disconnected ic40 and it doesn’t trip. However, I only have about 27V on the pcb output. Is that my issue? Should I replace that before spending the dollars on the ic40 (which is only about 2 years old).

TIA
 
Welcome to TFP.

Do you have the IntelliChlor power center integrated into your EasyTouch Load Center or the separate Power Center box?

Show us a picture of the inside of your EasyTouch panel showing the wiring.

@Jimrahbe
 
Rush,

Power to the pump should have nothing to do with the IntelliChlor issue. :scratch:

In most cases the same power that goes to the pump also goes to the SWCG transformer, so odd.

When the cell is making chlorine, the power out of the surge card is about 35 Volts DC. When the cell is resting, it is about 40 volts DC.

The input AC to the surge card is about 28 volts AC.

I would assume the cell is bad, but don't know enough about the surge card to know if it works, when the cell is disconnected.

Cells have a two-year warranty, so you should check the date on the cell and turn in a warranty claim if possible.

I'm going to send you a PM..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

Do you have the IntelliChlor power center integrated into your EasyTouch Load Center or the separate Power Center box?

Show us a picture of the inside of your EasyTouch panel showing the wiring.

@Jimrahbe
Click to expand...

It’s an all-in-one box/panel. I’ll try and grab a pic in a bit. I took one of the pcb that I *think* is bad earlier.

4 pin dongle disconnected so I could test voltage.
49E5B9B3-888D-4152-AFC1-AAE9A2FB9A37.jpeg
 
Rush,

Your problem is that the bottom connector on the Surge card in your pic is wired wrong. Not sure where those two wires go, but I believe they should be in Pins 2 and 3 not 1 and 2.

Please double check. It could be the pic, but I don't think so.. This should also fix your pump issue.. :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
I believe they should be in Pins 2 and 3 not 1 and 2.
Click to expand...
@Jimrahbe - OP should confirm but the screws for pins 2 and 3 are sunken down more than 1 and 4 so I believe that it is correct.

I also wouldn't think a goofed up comms connection would cause a tripped breaker.

--Jeff
 
Jeff,

I agree, I did not see the screw heads. The pic is deceiving; well to me anyway. :mrgreen:

I was thinking more about pump running than a popped breaker. Got all excited for nothing. :brickwall:

Thanks for the correction,

Jim R.
 
Jim,

No worries... I wasn't paying attention to the pump part of the conversation. :mrgreen:

@RushT - When you plug in that 4 pin connector to the board, it trips the 12A breaker?

I don't have an easytouch so I can't make too many comparisons but I'm curious if there is something in the wiring outside of the panel that has been worn through and maybe is tripping the breaker. I'm thinking that the 12A breaker is for the CPT and when that goes away, the filter pump relay drops out, which would kill the pump and the SWCG transformer power.

--Jeff
 
Turbo1Ton said:
Jim,

No worries... I wasn't paying attention to the pump part of the conversation. :mrgreen:

@RushT - When you plug in that 4 pin connector to the board, it trips the 12A breaker?

I don't have an easytouch so I can't make too many comparisons but I'm curious if there is something in the wiring outside of the panel that has been worn through and maybe is tripping the breaker. I'm thinking that the 12A breaker is for the CPT and when that goes away, the filter pump relay drops out, which would kill the pump and the SWCG transformer power.

--Jeff
Click to expand...
It’s always possible there’s some bad wiring outside the box. Jim was awesome and loaned me a used ic40 that I’ll test out tomorrow.

I only had the connector loose to test the output pins, which only provided 27V DC. If I disconnect the ic40, the breaker stays on. When I then connect the ic40, the breaker trips. I’m hoping the loaner ic40 gives me the same result which would lead me to believe the pcb output is bad, causing a tripped breaker which takes the pump offline too. I’ll check with the ic40 disconnected and see if the pump comes back online.
 
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Alrighty,

I tested this morning with the alternate ic40 and it powers up just fine. No tripped breaker. But no power to the pump still. Could that be an issue with the pcb too? Or do I need to start looking at other things. It looks like my cell is bad, my pcb only puts out 27V DC, and the pump still doesn’t power up. This is starting to sound expensive. :).
 

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And another piece of info or two:

I tested HV to the pump and both legs are good. On the pcb, there’s a 4 lug connector at the bottom with green and yellow wires on connectors 2 and 3. If those are supposed to put out anything constant, there’s a problem. It bounces around at the 0 to 0.5V range in both DC and AC. These two wires go to the lcd panel on the pump.
 
The green and yellow wires you are messing around with are the RS-485 data comm lines. They are low voltage lines that communicate by their voltage differential. Make sure you don’t short out the wires and blow a COMM chip.
 
I sort of figured that was likely the case. But where does the lcd get its power from?

Another piece of info that I didn’t think was really part of the problem, but might be diagnostic. I have the remote setup, it’s also lost comm connection.

Oh. and the D1 diode light seems to blink off and on red.
 
Rush,

Tell me how you tested the 240 Volts AC into your pump. Did you test between L1 and L2 right at the pump input, or did you test L1 to ground and then L2 to ground?

Do you have a Pentair Remote or do you ScreenLogic so you can use your phone?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Rush,

Tell me how you tested the 240 Volts AC into your pump. Did you test between L1 and L2 right at the pump input, or did you test L1 to ground and then L2 to ground?

Do you have a Pentair Remote or do you ScreenLogic so you can use your phone?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Both, L1 on the block to ground, L2 on the block to ground, and then L1 to L2. This was all at the connections on the pump.

I have the pentair remote.
 
Rush,

If you had 240 volts AC between L1 and L2 and the pump's display is blank, then you have a pump issue. It could be just the keypad/display, or it could be the control head. Neither of which is a good thing.

FYI.. With the pump connected, if you test L1 to gnd and then L2 to ground you will get 120 VAC on each one, even if you are missing one side of the 240 VAC. The only valid test is between L1 and L2.

Sounds like you might have taken a power surge.

Jim R.
 
Ugh…. Is that something I can troubleshoot myself? I replaced the pump after the 2021 snowpocolypse, so I’m pretty sure I’m past a 1 yr warranty, but should have had some life left in it.

Yep, delivered on 2/26/21.
 
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