Another power supply question for ic40

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Alrighty gentlemen… back at it today. Apparently the pump I have is on back order until June from most sites I talked to today. I did find one that had just received a shipment so I ordered it. And a salt cell. No luck on the board, everyone is out.

The pump is literally only 14 months old. I see two options for buying the control panel, and the whole drive, at about $300 and $950 respectivley. Would the odds be good of me fixing this pump by saving $600 or $1300 by ordering just the panel or drive?
 
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Rush,

Did you not prove that the surge card was good by using another IC40?

My guts says that the drive or key pad is bad and the motor itself is good. But my gut has been wrong many times before. :mrgreen:

Seems to me we have an old post or two where keypads have been repaired. At this point I can't see where you have anything to lose by opening it up and seeing if anything obvious pops up.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Rush,

Did you not prove that the surge card was good by using another IC40?

My guts says that the drive or key pad is bad and the motor itself is good. But my gut has been wrong many times before. :mrgreen:

Seems to me we have an old post or two where keypads have been repaired. At this point I can't see where you have anything to lose by opening it up and seeing if anything obvious pops up.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Correct, my breaker doesn't trip with the loaner IC, but to the best of my skills the surge card is only putting out 27V which I gather is not correct. Since I haven’t been able to find one of those in stock, I’ll hold off for a little bit anyways. I can always use shock and chlorine to get me by for a bit. Can’t get by without a pump.
 
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Still debugging this one. I've managed to have a pool pump order cancelled by no less than 4 vendors (allow you to order, but then cancel or back order you). And now it seems I actually have two on schedule for delivery and will have to return one.

But to the current unknown... I still think my 521091 board is bad as I was only getting 27V output. I see that this board is likely no longer available, and I also see references to 521218 being the replacement board. Can anybody confirm that this is indeed the board I need to pursue for replacement? The pinouts and connectors are definitely different on this board compared to 521091. Just trying to get ahead of the research curve in case everything powers up once I get the new pump in place but I'm not making chlorine with a new cell.

Many thanks.

Russ
 

Can't find SWG surge board #521091

Lightning strike took out the main board and the SWG surge board in my EasyTouch 4. The board has PCB #521091 printed on it, but from reading another forum that's not the true retail part number. They say the real part number is #521218 but googleing that shows a different board than the one I...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

@Jimrahbe says the inputs and outputs are the same between the two boards.
 
Thanks @ajw22 , I see that the connector count and grouping is the same, it's just the molex connectors are different. I can probably sort that out too if necessary.

Also, fwiw, I've been on hold with Pentair for 34 minutes now, but my conversation with them earlier indicated that testing the board should be done at the connector to the cell. There's a 4 way and one of the two diagonals should have 24-36V DC on it. I suspect that's the same setup as what Jim was suggesting to test at the board itself. Just putting down info here for further searchers.

Russ
 
Jimrahbe said:
Russ,


Looks to be in stock.

Jim R.
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Thanks Jim,

I actually have two scheduled for delivery. I've ordered 3 or 4 that showed in stock, only to have them charge my card and then cancel my order 2-3 days later and hold onto my $$ for another 3-4 days. Amazon showed a vendor with 12 in stock and they *tend* to be pretty accurate. Shipping from another vendor. I chased down that vendor's website and they had it listed fro $1650 vs. Amazon $2000. I ordered for $1650 from the vendor's website. In the morning, I sent them an email because they weren't taking voicemails, asking them if they indeed had them in stock and were shipping. about 5 hours later, Amazon stock was now down to 5 and I chickened out and went ahead and ordered from Amazon. 2 hours later I got the email from the vendor that I should have tracking info soon.

So..... I'm trusting on Amazon's generous return policy LOL. Once I receive both, I'll install the lesser priced of the two and if it works I will send back the other one to Amazon.

Now I just need to order some fuses for the easy-touch panel for insurance.

Russ

PS, I'm going to keep the website you linked in my shortcuts; they seem to have good stock (if actually in stock).
 
Well, both pumps showed up today so I went ahead and swapped out the pump and salt cell. Cell lights up and the pump runs fine. My easy touch remote doesn’t seem to want to connect reliably, and when it does I can’t seem to get into all the menu options. Running the pump and cell full time for a day (pool was starting to get bad so I put the cover back on). I’ll take the cover off in a day or so and if relatively clean I’ll pull out my backup canister filters and put my good ones back in and try and balance my chemicals.

Thanks everyone for the comments and help. I’m still not certain the cell is working, although it does light up And seems to be happy with salt level and flow.

Russ

PS, if anybody needs a pump pronto, I have one. It’s expensive though… $2k on Amazon and I’ll let it go picked up for what I paid. I’m about to test Amazon’s return policy. :)
 

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Rush,

Do you have a Pentair Remote, or are you using ScreenLogic and your phone?

Everything that you can do on a Pentair remote, you can do from the main EasyTouch panel.

If you set the cell to 50%, then if the cell has good flow and good salt lights, the "Cell" light should come on for 2.5 minutes and then it will be off for 2.5 minutes.

If the cell light is on, then the cell is making chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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