Another Baquacil to Salt Conversion with several questions.

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RidingMann

Well-known member
Aug 11, 2019
45
Cumming, GA
Let me start off with a little about me and the pool...

I live near Atlanta, GA but, I'm working on my mom's pool in southwest VA. Unfortunately, I do not have weeks to put into this conversion. I'm really hoping to get it mostly right in the next 3 days.

She has not added any baquacil products for approximately 3 weeks. On Thursday, I had her start dosing the pool with 2 gal of bleach, once a day. She also added 20lbs of Clorox Alkalinity Increaser and 8lbs of CYA. When she added the bleach, of course, it turned neon green, but went back to crystal clear within an hour or 2. She also added bleach just like this on Friday and Saturday.


I got in town today, changed the sand, and installed the SWG and bonding fitting with zinc sacrificial anode. The SWG came with test kit (strip style). As of today at noon this is what the tests looked like
PH 7.2-7.4
FC 0
Total Alkalinity 120
CYA 30-50

This is where things get uncomfortable for me.

I began to question the reliability of the test strips, so I sent her to walmart to buy a test kit. All they had (besides more strip kits) was an HTH 6-way test kit. While I was waiting for her to return, I dosed 4 more gallons of bleach and dumped 700lbs of Clorox Pool salt in. I did not turn the SWG on.

Here's my problem, I have no idea how to use this test kit. It tells me how to test chlorine, but it maxes out at 5 (you compare the colors after putting 5 drops of the chemicals in it). Everything thing I've found on here is that I need to hold at 15 ppm of FC, right? But how the heck do i know how close I am? Is this test kit a waste of time and money? If so, what do I buy and where?

I've rambled on enough for now. Thanks in advance for any help.

OH, is there any way I can get this thing close to right before Wednesday?
 
Being as time is not on my side, and after reading here more, I got out of bed and went out to brush the pool, backwash the filter, add 2 more gallons of 6% bleach, and turn the SWG on super chlorinate. This is what it looked like when I went out.

What in the world is this stuff?
8-11-2300.jpeg8-11-2301.jpeg
When we started the conversion, despite not being treated for almost 3 weeks, the pool was crystal clear.
 
That is baqua-goo. See step 5 ...

www.troublefreepool.com

Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine

This Step-by-step guide will help you transform your pool from Biguanide (Baquacil, SoftSwim hereafter referred to as Baqua) to chlorine. Read more
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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First and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP! So let’s look at a few items,
  • No FAS/DPD Test Kit
  • You’ve added cya
  • Must be done in a few days

I’ll be a barer of bad news, you’re facing some MAJOR hurdles. These three items added up likely would be enough to just suggest a drain/refill. Exchanging as much water as you can will be a huge help in this case. The process often takes a week or more if done right and the addition of cya has likely really set you back.

Is a water exchange a legit option for you??
 
Goodness that's a large pool of goo. Was your mom working under any specific guidance or plan to convert this pool?

What is her water source- city or well? If well water, will she be able to refill reasonable easily if she drains that mess down and out?

A good conversion uses nothing but time and liquid chlorine. No other chemicals needed initially, and a SWG is not used at this point at all. Everything that is in the equipment picture will get gummed up with this goo.

The test kit you require is the FAS-DPD test kit for chlorine up to 50ppm. A GOOD test kit for you is the TF-100 from www.tftestkits.net You'll be spinning your wheels with anything less than that or the K-2006C. TF-100 is $70 but worth every penny and usually saves pool owners far more than the cost in the end.

Please read the TFP method of conversion. What can you do to get back on track and recover this water or make the decision to drain and refill (but still will need a short, small conversion for Bacqua still in the system).

Maddie :flower:
 
I've contacted TFTest kits about getting a TF 100 overnighted. They're not that far away, so having the kit soon shouldn't be a problem.

A water change is not something that we prefer to do HOWEVER, desperate times call for desperate measures, right? I've got the pump set to waste as we speak. I'll run it down to about 20% or so... I get nervous draining 100%. I've heard the liner can pull out?

As for her guidance? Ummm. You're talking to her counselor and I GREATLY underestimated/under-researched on this one.

Now that we have a drain in progress, and a kit soon to be here, what should I do?
 
You don’t want to completely drain a liner pool. All sorts of bad things can happen.

What type of filter does the pool have? I would change the filter medium as it is likely all gooed up.

Refill the pool and follow the process in post #3. You should have alot less goo to clear up.
 
ajw22 said:
You don’t want to completely drain a liner pool. All sorts of bad things can happen.

What type of filter does the pool have? I would change the filter medium as it is likely all gooed up.

Refill the pool and follow the process in post #3. You should have alot less goo to clear up.
Click to expand...
Hayward S200, I just changed the sand yesterday, but I can do it again if needed. How far down should I drain it?
 
I cant say how far to drain it. Don’t know the shape, size, age of liner, type of walls, type of floor, ground water that can float a liner, how things look, how many hoses you can run to quickly refill it.

Leave at least a foot or two of water on the entire bottom of the pool. So how much you can drain will be dictated by the shallow end.

If you have an abundance of cheap water I might drain it down some then add water and drain more to dilute the remaining water. If you have the water and the time. Maybe run hose in and pump out at the same time for a while.
 
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Gotcha. Liner is a few years old, in great shape.
Rectangle, fiberglass panels behind the walls, cant remember what the stuff is called that we made the floor out of (looks similar to thin set you put under tile), and refill is slow, 1 garden hose.

Also, I just talked to Rebecca. Super nice lady. Speed stir and TF 100 will be here tomorrow.

Once I get filled back to normal level, what should I do? Bleach?
 
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RidingMann said:
Once I get filled back to normal level, what should I do? Bleach?
Click to expand...

Follow this step by step. pH first then bleach.

www.troublefreepool.com

Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine

This Step-by-step guide will help you transform your pool from Biguanide (Baquacil, SoftSwim hereafter referred to as Baqua) to chlorine. Read more
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Reactions: RidingMann
One of the things I've been reading on here is how important it is not to have any algae. So during my "down" time I've been cleaning all of the nooks and crannies.

I discovered that the caulk around the skimmer door (inside the frame that sandwiches the fiberglass wall panel and liner to between the skimmer frame and housing) hasn't been redone in years and is mostly missing.

Is there a specific type of caulk that I should use? Any special instructions?

Also a tad more backstory-
My father installed the pool himself from a kit in 1987 and has been the primary caretaker. He passed away a few years ago, so all of the common knowledge is now gone. I suggested the salt water conversion to my mom with the hopes of making the financial burden of the pool less. So far, I'm failing. Lol

Thanks for all of your help. I wish I would have started here, my life would be much more simple.
 
RidingMann said:
I discovered that the caulk around the skimmer door (inside the frame that sandwiches the fiberglass wall panel and liner to between the skimmer frame and housing) hasn't been redone in years and is mostly missing.

Is there a specific type of caulk that I should use? Any special instructions?
Click to expand...

Pics to understand your situation help. Show us a pic of the skimmer area that needs caulk.

Not sure what material is the best for it. @jimmythegreek may have ideas.
 
Scrubbing is usually the best way to remove scum and calcium buildup. Do that first, if stains persist we can let you know how to deal with that later, no need to worry about that for now. Be sure to keep a keen eye on the liner while draining and refilling. Any sings of wrinkling and stop the drain immediately and refill. As for the caulking you can use any any silicon based with anti mold.
 
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Flying Tivo said:
Scrubbing is usually the best way to remove scum and calcium buildup. Do that first, if stains persist we can let you know how to deal with that later, no need to worry about that for now. Be sure to keep a keen eye on the liner while draining and refilling. Any sings of wrinkling and stop the drain immediately and refill. As for the caulking you can use any any silicon based with anti mold.
Click to expand...
I ran it down to about 17" deep in the shallow end. It started to wrinkle in one corner, so I started the refill then.
I'll run to lowes and pick up some silicone now and get it recaulked before the water gets back up to it.

Thanks again!
 

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