So my pH level looks to be around 7.6 and TA was around 200. I turned pump off, using pool math app determined I needed around 50oz of 31.45% muriatic acid, poured that around the deep end. Left pump off another 40 min, then turned everything back on and kids swam in it to aerate.. this morning the alkalinity is still reading around 200 and its still cloudy
Alkalinity wont go down
- Thread starter Bradleyj
- Start date
Brad,
It is not a one time deal... For me to lower my TA any real amount takes me a couple of days of testing and dosing every three or four hours...
At first it tends not to move much, then the longer you go, the more it moves. I always drop it lower than I want, because it will bounce back up 10 ppm pretty quickly..
And.. TA has zero to do with a pool being cloudy.. Cloudy is almost always an early sign of algae..
You might want to read this... ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Thanks,
Jim R.
It is not a one time deal... For me to lower my TA any real amount takes me a couple of days of testing and dosing every three or four hours...
At first it tends not to move much, then the longer you go, the more it moves. I always drop it lower than I want, because it will bounce back up 10 ppm pretty quickly..
And.. TA has zero to do with a pool being cloudy.. Cloudy is almost always an early sign of algae..
You might want to read this... ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Thanks,
Jim R.
Welcome to TFP!
First thing's first, what you attempted is called the "slug method" and it is 100% bunk. Dumping a bunch of acid in the deep end does not lower TA any more than properly pouring it in front of the return but it absolutely will damage your pool. Never pour MA in a pool with the pump off.
TA is a pretty unconcerning level, there's really no reason to chase it just because it is 'high'. Just managing your pH as normal will almost always bring the TA to a spot where it keeps the pH stable. Also, as Jim pointed out, it's not the cause of water cloudiness. I know this especially because the same thing brought me here all those years ago. And trust me, it wasn't acid that cleared up the cloudiness, it was chlorine.
First thing's first, what you attempted is called the "slug method" and it is 100% bunk. Dumping a bunch of acid in the deep end does not lower TA any more than properly pouring it in front of the return but it absolutely will damage your pool. Never pour MA in a pool with the pump off.
TA is a pretty unconcerning level, there's really no reason to chase it just because it is 'high'. Just managing your pH as normal will almost always bring the TA to a spot where it keeps the pH stable. Also, as Jim pointed out, it's not the cause of water cloudiness. I know this especially because the same thing brought me here all those years ago. And trust me, it wasn't acid that cleared up the cloudiness, it was chlorine.
The chlorine levels all read as within normal range, but yes, there has been a light film or algae on bottom and sides, that no matter how much Robot use and vac-to -waste i am doing, i cant get it completely gone. I have started using liquid chlorine and gone away from the tri-chlor tabs and shock. Do i need to pour some more?!
If you are seeing algae then that's a problem. Luckily, it's a problem we have an easy solution for: The SLAM Process
It requires a reliable test kit that contains all the required tests, specifically the TF-100 from tftestkits.net or a Taylor K2006c. Following it through to completion will eradicate all the algae in the pool and leave it in a state where it will be easy to keep it clear. Most importantly once coming out of the SLAM is to chlorinate to the FC/CYA Levels. That's the main problem with the typical chlorine ranges, it doesn't factor in the buffering effect of CYA in the water and allows algae to grow even at supposedly good chlorine levels. Following the chart compensates for this and keeps chlorine at a level that is both safe and sanitary.
It requires a reliable test kit that contains all the required tests, specifically the TF-100 from tftestkits.net or a Taylor K2006c. Following it through to completion will eradicate all the algae in the pool and leave it in a state where it will be easy to keep it clear. Most importantly once coming out of the SLAM is to chlorinate to the FC/CYA Levels. That's the main problem with the typical chlorine ranges, it doesn't factor in the buffering effect of CYA in the water and allows algae to grow even at supposedly good chlorine levels. Following the chart compensates for this and keeps chlorine at a level that is both safe and sanitary.
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