alkalinity too high

[captiveinflorida]

Hello, I tested all my water and everything is perfect except for alkalinity. it's 240.
I have two tests, I was using pool time strips at first....they suggested I adjust ph and "wait" for TA to lower itself. But the ph is fine already. So should I just wait?
But then I tested with a test kit and same thing TA 240 and everything else perfect and water is crystal clear.
Then I went to the pool math calculator and it said some confusing stuff. When I put in 240 to the TA section it said: to add 34 oz of baking soda. but then said to lower TA you reduce ph with acid and then aerate to increase ph. Huh? I thought baking soda raised TA so why should I add it?. And I don't really want to use acid to lower ph. I have some ph down I bought which i would rather use. But the ph is perfect so why should i mess with it?
TA

Goal: 80 to 120

Add by weight or by volume of baking soda. To lower TA you reduce pH to 7.0-7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH. Note: Adding baking soda will also raise your pH just a little.

 

[Richard320]

The only reason poolmath would direct you to add 34 oz baking soda is if you chose a target TA higher than the current TA. So either you made a typo in the now column or you entered too high a target in the target column.

If pH is okay, there's no reason to mess with TA. It's really only useful to calculate the acid dose to lower pH.

Now here's what's worrisome: "Using Pool time 1" Max Blue 6 in 1 tablets with built in stabilizer." Each tablet you add raises both FC and CYA. The FC dissipates. The CYA does not. It just builds and builds. The higher the CYA, the higher the minimum FC you need to maintain to keep the pool sanitary and algae free. Are you? Just so you know, probably 95% of the green pool threads here boil down to CYA buildup.

As an aside, "everything else perfect" isn't particularly enlightening to us. We like to see actual numbers.

 

[captiveinflorida]

I did goof and put in the target as my now figure. So I did it the correct way and put in to lower ph to 7.2 and it said to put 5.9 oz volume or 3.9 dry acid which I prefer to use to lower ph. I may just let it sit for a day since no one is going to swim today and
see what it is at end of day. PS I didn't put in all the numbers because I didn't write them down and the test kit iis outside and my memory is not that good. BTW I am an old grandmother so please be patient with me. Ok I went out and got the test kit which is HDX 5 way test kit. And far as I can remember the numbers are:
chlorine 2.0
combined cl 2.0
ph 7.6
TA 240
the fifth test was for bromine which i don't use, i think that's what that is for.
Now in the pool calculator it has a section for borate what is that for? Never heard of that. Should I be testing for that?
Well that's about all the info I can give you for now. Thank you for your help even thought you seem to be annoyed with me.

The only reason poolmath would direct you to add 34 oz baking soda is if you chose a target TA higher than the current TA. So either you made a typo in the now column or you entered too high a target in the target column.

If pH is okay, there's no reason to mess with TA. It's really only useful to calculate the acid dose to lower pH.

Now here's what's worrisome: "Using Pool time 1" Max Blue 6 in 1 tablets with built in stabilizer." Each tablet you add raises both FC and CYA. The FC dissipates. The CYA does not. It just builds and builds. The higher the CYA, the higher the minimum FC you need to maintain to keep the pool sanitary and algae free. Are you? Just so you know, probably 95% of the green pool threads here boil down to CYA buildup.

As an aside, "everything else perfect" isn't particularly enlightening to us. We like to see actual numbers.

 

[pooldv]

There is no need to test for borates if you havent added borates to your pool then enter 0.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hey.... do you know those PoolTime Max Blue 1" 6 in 1 pucks contain copper???? Are ya sure ya want COPPER in the water?!??! That's gonna cause stains and green hair too.

Any product with "blue" in the name is suspect for copper and you should check the ingredients and SDS online.

Maddie

 

[kabutotx]

The HDX isn't a very reliable test kit. TFP recommends the TF-100 or Taylor 2006c.
TA - You need to test your fill water TA.
Chlorine - Your chlorine needs to be based off your CYA (Cyanuric Acid). I would bet it needs to be higher than 2.
Read The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry. Also the Chlorine/CYA Chart

 

[BattleOfYakima]

Welcome to TFP - wonderful to meet you! I love helping grandmothers with pools! It's like cooking together - acids, bases, and sanitization.

Richard320 is a truly awesome expert and his advice is top notch! If he explains something or predicts what went wrong, please don't read the words as aggressive or mean - I promise they were written with the goal of helping you to your very own Trouble Free Pool and educating you on anything you could get even better at! You're really fortunate to have him, pooldv, and YippeeSkippy all in your thread already!

Those links that kabutotx gave you really helped me learn when I was new to the TFP way of pool care - now I'm a guide and helping others!

So to recap - your high TA isn't a health concern or anything and we can work with it. The pucks/tablets - probably best you don't buy any more of those. I do highly suggest you buy a recommended test kit, all of us here in Florida really need one given our rain/floods/storms/lots of swimmers/sun. The TF-100 is currently your best option, but the K-2006C is fine if you feel the need to pay more for a brand name box to hold the same chemicals, totally up to you, no wrong answer with those two.

Do you have any regular, un-scented, non-splashless bleach? Walmart generic great value brand 8.25% is super fresh and strong and cheaper than the leading brand name. Since you're in Florida like me, it is possible your local pool store sells 10% bleach (they call it pool chlorine or liquid chlorine shock) and this is often even cheaper than bleach if they do refillable containers like my Leslie's Pool and Pinch a Penny Pool stores do. As explained in pool school - by using the liquid bleach/chlorine - we add the sanitizer that is in the pucks, without the other chemicals that are in the pucks. I know 3 in 1 and 5 in 1 and 6 in 1 all sounds really fantastic - but what if you're already good on the other levels and only need 1 in 1 (bleach/chlorine)? So when you have a chance, please buy several gallons so we can keep your pool safe and blue. We'll calculate how much to add after you tell us what % you bought.

Lastly, one of those chemicals in the tablets is called CYA. Your pool needs some, but too much and it becomes harder to keep clear and blue. Both the TF-100 and K-2006C have CYA tests included so we can make sure you have enough, but not too much. The CYA level also determines what level of chlorine (Free Chlorine FC) you need to keep the water safe to swim in (and clear/blue). Real test kits are the best - like having a candy thermometer or frying thermometer instead of trying to make due with a short, regular thermometer without getting burned.