Alage is kicking my rear, talk me off the ledge.

C&HSewell

Well-known member
Aug 17, 2021
89
Covington, Ga
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
THis is our first year as pool owners. I had posted several months ago about successfully completing a SLAM, and then posted a update thinking the algae came back, but then convincing myself it was just dirt in the liner seam. Finally two weeks ago, I came to the hard realization that it was not dirt and that the stuff in the seam was indeed algae. So, I started another SLAM, brushing, testing, adding bleach, testing before I went to bed and retesting first thing in the morning amd repeating for over 7 days unitl I thought all was well. I passed the OCLT and even kept the FC up at SLAM level an extra day. Only to wake up one morning last week to see algae collecting in the same spot.

I had to take a break both mentally and physically from the SLAM. It was just really discouraing to me to the point of thinking getting a pool was a bad decision. Over the last few days the FC was slowly drifting down and the dead algae settling had not gotten any better or worse. I decided the last night to restart the SLAM with the starting FC at 13.5. I vaccumed the dead alage to waste and added the recommendation dose of CalHypo(this time) to get it up to the SLAM level. I actually felt good. I actually dreamed that when I woke up there would be dead algae covering the floor. Well, I woke up this morning to go check and your guessed, it, the dead algae on the floor was worse than it ever was and in more spots. One section it was about 4 inches wide.

My Pre-Slam Data:
FC: 8
CC: 0
CYA: 70
Ph: Dropped down to 7.4
TA 80
CH: 130

  1. Why would the dead algae be worse than ever after adding the Cal-Hypo?
  2. How long can you SLAM before risk damaging equipment? 28PPM FC cant be good over a period of time
  3. How can you vaccum to waste without losing so much water than it goes below to skimmer? Do you just keep replacing the water?
  4. Should I pause the SLAM and let everyhting settle down and make sure the Ph is back normal and restart later?
  5. Any other thoughts?
I am 10000000% discouraged.
 
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  1. Why would the dead algae be worse than ever after adding the Cal-Hypo?
Not joking...you killed it.
  1. How long can you SLAM before risk damaging equipment? 28PPM FC cant be good over a period of time
SLAM level FC will not harm your equipment.
  1. How can you vaccum to waste without losing so much water than it goes below to skimmer? Do you just keep replacing the water?
Vacuum to the filter...doesn't have to go to waste. When your filter pressure rises 25% above clean pressure, then backwash. No need to waste the water.
  1. Should I pause the SLAM and let everyhting settle down and make sure the Ph is back normal and restart later?
No, let's get this slam done. I would use Liquid Chlorine for your slam.
  1. Any other thoughts?
I think you have one of a few things going on.
1) Even with an OCLT <1 FC, your SLAM isn't over until FC <= .5 AND your water is clear. Water is clear = NO DEAD ALGAE. You have to continue slam until there is nothing left in the water.
2) Even if you passed all three criteria, it may be that there was some tiny bit left over in a seam, a weir door foam, a ladder, a light. Did you scrub absolutely everything in the pool?
3) You let your FC get too low at some point and algae came back.

Can you post some pictures of your pool from all angles?
Do you use pool math? If so, go to the gear in upper right corner, then scroll to the bottom and enable sharing pool math logs.

We'll help you figure this out!
 
  1. Why would the dead algae be worse than ever after adding the Cal-Hypo?
Cal hypo can cloud the water when used in large amounts so it is not recommended for the
SLAM Process stick with liquid chlorine.
Cal hypo used this way can also raise your ch quickly, you don’t want to cause a scaling condition.
  1. How long can you SLAM before risk damaging equipment? 28PPM FC cant be good over a period of time
At your cya level of 70ppm the amount of available chlorine at slam level is not any harsher than what’s in many municipal drinking water supplies with no cya. No worries, a couple weeks of slam level is ok so long as you adjusted ph before beginning as outlined in the article.
  1. How can you vaccum to waste without losing so much water than it goes below to skimmer? Do you just keep replacing the water?
Yes, or you just vac to filter & backwash as needed when pressure rises 25% above clean pressure. Adding a little DE to the filter can help capture the fine particles, you may want to wait until there’s less bulk to do this as it can clog the filter quickly & requires babysitting.
  1. Should I pause the SLAM and let everyhting settle down and make sure the Ph is back normal and restart later?
Did you adjust ph to 7.2 before beginning?
  1. Any other thoughts?
Let’s be sure to cover ALL the bases this time so we don’t need to have any more do overs:

For a successful SLAM Process
you need to continue to MAINTAIN Slam level fc for your cya as often as possible (multiple times per day) until you meet ALL 3 end of slam criteria-
The more often you test & replenish fc the faster SLAM will go.

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
AND
the water is clear.
(Crystal Clear w/no algae dead or alive)

*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.)
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.

Do not be discouraged!
Instead be thorough & deliberate & you’ll be good 2 go in no time 😊
SLAM ON!
 
You mention only adding chlorine twice a day (early morming, before bed). That's just not often enough. Try for *at leat* 3x per day, more often if possible. Test and re-dose if your FC has dropped down below SLAM level. Some folks on days off test and re-dose as often as hourly or every two hours.

Liquid Chlorine is always the most effective type of chlorine for a SLAM.

Maddie :flower:
 
You mention only adding chlorine twice a day (early morming, before bed). That's just not often enough. Try for *at leat* 3x per day, more often if possible. Test and re-dose if your FC has dropped down below SLAM level. Some folks on days off test and re-dose as often as hourly or every two hours.

Liquid Chlorine is always the most effective type of chlorine for a SLAM.

Maddie :flower:
I tested and added multiple times throughout the day, but always did it before I went to sleep and when I woke up for the OCLT.

I am just curious why the large increase in Dead Algae overnight when I added the Cal-Hyo versus the LC. It was extremely noticable, lprobably 10x as bad.
 
Not joking...you killed it.

SLAM level FC will not harm your equipment.

Vacuum to the filter...doesn't have to go to waste. When your filter pressure rises 25% above clean pressure, then backwash. No need to waste the water.

No, let's get this slam done. I would use Liquid Chlorine for your slam.

I think you have one of a few things going on.
1) Even with an OCLT <1 FC, your SLAM isn't over until FC <= .5 AND your water is clear. Water is clear = NO DEAD ALGAE. You have to continue slam until there is nothing left in the water.
2) Even if you passed all three criteria, it may be that there was some tiny bit left over in a seam, a weir door foam, a ladder, a light. Did you scrub absolutely everything in the pool?
3) You let your FC get too low at some point and algae came back.

Can you post some pictures of your pool from all angles?
Do you use pool math? If so, go to the gear in upper right corner, then scroll to the bottom and enable sharing pool math logs.

We'll help you figure this out!
I do use Pool Math and have selected to share, but for some reason when I entered the amount bleach added as "added suggested amount" it showed up as -1oz Bleach for many of the time I added it to the pool.
 
Any chance your Liquid Chlorine was old? Anything older than 3 months?
No, I looked to make sure. It was the Pool Essential 10% from Wally World. The mfg date was the around the 350th day of 2022 and the FC would always increase to SLAM when added. It is the craziest thing. I vaccumed and backwashed last night and this morning had no visible dead algae, which is a move in the right direction. I am also going to recheck my CYA level today as well. When I tested last night to verify, it looked like it was no longer 70 but more along the lines of 30. But it was not in ideal light conditions and I think I had the black dot stare. I have always struggled with the CYA test.
 
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I am just curious why the large increase in Dead Algae overnight when I added the Cal-Hyo versus the LC. It was extremely noticable, lprobably 10x as bad.
I believe that there is sediment in some or all Cal-Hypos that looks an awful lot like dead algae. I have experienced the same observation as you. But it happens when I'm sure there's no algae in my pool, too. Maybe this stuff will go into solution if given enough time, not sure.
 

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Whooo hoo indeed!
 
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HELP!!!!! I am once again dealing with Dead Algae in my pool. I test regularly and I PROMISE, let me underscore underscore, bold, whatever else can be added to PROMISE, my FC has not one time dropped below the minimum FC on the FC/CYA Chart over the last 2 months. I keep an excel spreadsheet for cying out loud and it kept at it consistently. For the last 2 Months not a single sign of dead algae. Why now????

My test results have been consistently
FC: 5.5-7.5(some suuny days it would drop to 5.5 but never lower) and I even do uneccesary OCLT periodically which would pass.
CC: 0
CYA: 70
Ph: 7.4-7.8(ive dropped it to 7.4, via MA, only 2x over the last 2 months because it would get to borderline 8)
CH: 160
my pool has been humming along at running the pump for 12 hrs with the SWG at 40% until yesterday.

I am the epitome of frustrated.
 
Are you sure its not pollen? We are covered up with it in the south.
Got any pics?
I dont think it is, is was also on the angled side/botton going to the deep end. I never had even at the height of the pollen season here in Ga.

No pics since I got ******, threw a bunch of LC at it and started brushing this morning. I am sure there will be an opportinity to take some photos and I will post them.
 
Edit - I missed that you had a SWG.

That is certainly frustrating, while you are within the target ranges, some pools need a bit more chlorine. Sometimes that is poor circulation or something else unique about your pool. Regardless, the 5.5-7.5 FC isn't working for you and I would consider keeping your FC using the non-SWG chart after your SLAM. That would be a FC or 8-10 for your CYA of 70.
 
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This is the best pics I could get. The water is not cloudy as the distance might show.
 

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It may be time to deep clean the sand filter or at minimum a looonnnggg backwash. Keep the FC on the very hot side for the next ten days and add DE to the filter via the skimmer, enough to bring up the psi by one "1" psi. Brush so it gets water bound and filtered. Watch the filter pressure afterwards as it captures the small stuff you may see a spike in pressure, then backwash and do it again.
 
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It may be time to deep clean the sand filter or at minimum a looonnnggg backwash. Keep the FC on the very hot side for the next ten days and add DE to the filter via the skimmer, enough to bring up the psi by one "1" psi. Brush so it gets water bound and filtered. Watch the filter pressure afterwards as it captures the small stuff you may see a spike in pressure, then backwash and do it again.
I ran back wash for 3 mins and waste for another min this past Friday. Is it possible this may just be dirt that was blown in from the filter afterall? I will also do a OCLT tonight.
 
I wouldn't jump to conclusions yet about the sand filter malfunctioning such as a broken lateral unless you have good reason to. As I said ^^^^ some DE and keeping the fc real hot for ten days within the cya/fc ratio probably will clear it up.
 
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