How do you aerate? I’ve read some threads but not sure “building” a pvc add on works in my situation . I have two fountains that bubble up on my ledge - does that count as aeration by increasing the output of the fountains ?
Aeration/Alkalinity SWG
- Thread starter j190phil
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 59,743
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
As another way of looking at lowering TA and implementing pH containment, let pH drift up to around 8.0, add acid in an amount that will lower your pH and thus calcite saturation index to a level you are comfortable with (adjust your CH so calcite saturation is not out of range at pH 8.0 and some measure less, with your TA — and the TA will be slowly dropping). Forget aeration to force pH down, just keep doing that until TA and pH stabilize where they want to be. Initially you will be adding acid frequently. As time marches on, less frequently. Letting pH drift up on its own and then lowering pH is seemingly less work and hassle than lowering pH and then forcing it back up with aeration. I like to run calcite saturation index between -0.3 to something slightly positive. Reasonable minds can differ. If saturation index isn’t familiar, get the PoolMath app 
- Jun 24, 2021
- 9,099
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Welcome to TFP!!!
Curious why you don't think it will work in your situation?
General recommendation is to just manage your pH (keep it in the 7s) and TA will naturally come down. As it does, your pH rise will slow. I too have SWCG and with a TA of 60, my pool sits at 7.4 pH. I even tried to raise it to 7.6, within 12 hours it REVERTED to 7.4 and has been stable all year. If it is not reasonable to manage (i.e. multiple additions per week), then you might want to lower your TA.
I was able to lower TA by 70 in about 3 days with the rig below. I built it on top of a sump pump and drilled holes in the caps. The TRICK is to make A LOT of VERY TINY bubbles. You can make it go faster if you cycle your pH between 7.0 and 7.4. Reduce your TA to 7.0, aerate. When you get to 7.4, repeat. CO2 outgasses at the highest rate within these pH boundaries (this allows you to make your TA adjustment in the shortest amount of time).
I too have SWCG and with a TA of 60, my pool sits at 7.4 pH. I even tried to raise it to 7.6, within 12 hours it REVERTED to 7.4 and has been stable all year.
As Marty said, turn on your fountains first and see if that works. If not, this might work for you.
Curious why you don't think it will work in your situation?
General recommendation is to just manage your pH (keep it in the 7s) and TA will naturally come down. As it does, your pH rise will slow. I too have SWCG and with a TA of 60, my pool sits at 7.4 pH. I even tried to raise it to 7.6, within 12 hours it REVERTED to 7.4 and has been stable all year. If it is not reasonable to manage (i.e. multiple additions per week), then you might want to lower your TA.
I was able to lower TA by 70 in about 3 days with the rig below. I built it on top of a sump pump and drilled holes in the caps. The TRICK is to make A LOT of VERY TINY bubbles. You can make it go faster if you cycle your pH between 7.0 and 7.4. Reduce your TA to 7.0, aerate. When you get to 7.4, repeat. CO2 outgasses at the highest rate within these pH boundaries (this allows you to make your TA adjustment in the shortest amount of time).
I too have SWCG and with a TA of 60, my pool sits at 7.4 pH. I even tried to raise it to 7.6, within 12 hours it REVERTED to 7.4 and has been stable all year.
As Marty said, turn on your fountains first and see if that works. If not, this might work for you.
I’ve got my winter TA down (about 100 ppm reduction) and at about 70 right now; pH rise has slowed considerably exactly as you describe, but not as stable as yours. What is your CYA? Are you using borates? Is it related to your having vinyl instead of plaster? Anything else you can think of that allows your pH to stabilize so low? I’m very happy to just try to hover around 7.8. I don’t see hovering any lower without doing something different.
Getting back to the OP and aeration, again, what is the motivation — a need to drop TA quickly? (just curious and hoping I learn something).
I’m just trying to get it to the right levels, initially before getting on this board I was just maintaining on my own for the first time and not looking at the whole picture (focused on FC and PH) . Since I’ve been in here I’ve been educated a lot having to get my CYA up to 80 from 22 (FC was evaporating in the Texas sun) so now I’m just working on getting the TA down under 100 although my pool looks great - really no issues except the TA “number”
- Jun 24, 2021
- 9,099
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Then the best approach is to just manage pH and keep it between 7.0 and 8.0 using Muriatic. Over time your pH rise will reduce and stabilize to where it is manageable.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 9,099
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
CYA is 80. Yes, I'm using borates, but was as stable before I added borates this year. Maybe partially due to vinyl, but most pools stabilize pH due to plaster after 18-24 months after build. The other factor is that the pool has a solar cover on all the time when I'm not swimming, which reduces CO2 outgassing significantly.
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