Advice for 2 week old pool

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C

Collin228

0
Bronze Supporter
Aug 16, 2018
25
Austin, TX
Howdy all,

I just wanted to run my numbers by you all and make sure I am not missing anything. I am trying to follow the TFP guidelines using aTFT test kit. So far I have added Chlorine, quite a bit of acid, and CYA yesterday. Anything stand out? I think it is almost time for a SLAM, but it is a new pool and I am nervous doing it. I also wanted to get your take on the CH results. Should I do anything to lower it?

Thank you.

TC 5
CC .5
Free Chlorine: assuming is 4.5?
PH 7.5
TA 80
CH 250
CYA 40
 
At first glance, the numbers don't look bad, but we need to know more about your pool. Please update your signature with all of your pool and equipment details so we can give you some accurate guidance.

Why do you think you need to SLAM? Do you have algae or cloudy water? FYI - If this is a new plaster pool, you don't want to SLAM yet.
 
What about the calcium? Should I try and lower it?
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No, your CH level is fine. Using the PoolMath tool, we look at the "CSI" row after all numbers are entered. You want your CSI to be at neutral or even slightly above zero right now with new plaster. Later next season when the plaster is fully cured, you'll start keeping the CSI slightly negative to prevent scale. But for now that's not a problem. Remember that pH has the most significant impact on that CSI, followed by TA, CH, and water temp. Practice in PoolMath and you'll see what we mean.

UPDATE: After reviewing your numbers in PoolMath, your CSI is slightly low (about -0.32). I wasn't sure about your water temp so I listed it at 60 degrees. You should let the pH rise a bit (new plaster will do that anyway) and keep the pH in the upper 7s during this cold weather. A pH of 7.8 brings your CSI to -0.03 which is much better for the new plaster.
 
Thanks for the follow up. I am using the pool calculator app and didn’t know how to get the CSI number, but realized I was just missing temp. I add the 52 degrees and my csi is -.52. I will let the ph raise up some and monitor. Thank you.
 
I just ran some new numbers. From what I can tell I am looking good. TA is a little high, but not much. Probably going to at some Muriatic acid in a few days to get me towards 7.6 PH. Any issues?

FC 2.5
CC 0
PH 7.8
TA 110
CH 300
CYA 30
Temp 58
CSI .11


 
I would leave your PH at 7.8 and not lower it until it gets into the 8s. That keeps your CSI higher which is what you want for your plaster curing the first 30 days.

Your TA is fine. It will lower over time as your manage your rising PH.
 
Ok I had a few more questions, if you don’t mind. My pool is coming up on 30 days old this week. I was planning on adding salt to it, mainly just to swim in it this weekend. See any issues with this? I am pretty sure I need to keep the SWCG off and continue to use chlorine, but any reason not to add salt? What might happen to my pool chemistry when I add salt and heat the pool to 80? I just want to get in this thing for once...

collin
 

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Collin228 said:
Ok I had a few more questions, if you don’t mind. My pool is coming up on 30 days old this week. I was planning on adding salt to it, mainly just to swim in it this weekend. See any issues with this? I am pretty sure I need to keep the SWCG off and continue to use chlorine, but any reason not to add salt? What might happen to my pool chemistry when I add salt and heat the pool to 80? I just want to get in this thing for once...

collin
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What instructions did your builder give you? It is important to follow that first to ensure your warranty remains valid.

After 30 days, usually the salt is added and the SWCG is turned on. Dump the salt in usually the shallow end and push it a bit towards the deep end. Don't turn on the SWCG until the salt is fully dissolved in 24 hours. Test the salt level before adding salt as your pool already has some. Use the app to figure out how much salt to add based on volume. You can add more but would need to drain water if you go over your mark. You can also turn your heater on now. Hopefully you have the K-1766 salt test kit?
 
I do have the salt test and did it a few days ago. It was 400 ppm, so based on the app i need to add 300lbs to get it to 3000ppm. Probably going to add 200lbs at once and check daily and add a bag at a time until I get to 3000.
 
What SWG do you have? Please put more equipment details in your signature.

Will your SWG work with mid 50s water temps?
 
I am not planning on turning on the SWCG until it warms up based on this.

During prolonged periods when the water will be lessthan 55°F (13°C), the unit should be turned off and achlorine floater or erosion feeder should be used byputting a small number of tablets in either of thesedevices until the water temperature increases. Doing thiswill lengthen the cell life and provide better performancewhen water conditions are more optimal.
 
Signature is much more helpful now.

No reason to add the salt until you have consistent water temp above 60. I think salt will dissolve better in warmer water.
 
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