Adding SWG With Hayward OmniPL

[chapterthree]

I'm new to the forum, and fairly new to pools. We had our pool installed last year, and I'm exploring the idea of adding a SWG.

I have Hayward OmniLogic PL automation, and I have 2 bodies of water (pool and hot tub) on a single set of equipment, the automation toggles them back and forth (not sure if that matters for SWG).

How would I go about choosing a SWG that would be compatible with my equipment?

And is this something I can DIY? Or do I need to look at hiring someone?

Thanks!

 

[bradgray]

I'm new to the forum, and fairly new to pools. We had our pool installed last year, and I'm exploring the idea of adding a SWG.

I have Hayward OmniLogic PL automation, and I have 2 bodies of water (pool and hot tub) on a single set of equipment, the automation toggles them back and forth (not sure if that matters for SWG).

How would I go about choosing a SWG that would be compatible with my equipment?

And is this something I can DIY? Or do I need to look at hiring someone?

Thanks!

Welcome to TFP!

Your system is salt-ready. Hayward has the T-Cell line that is plug-n-play with your automation.
Plumbing into the line after your heater is generally fairly DIY friendly, but it depends on the space you have available. Do you have a photo of your equipment pad?

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

A Hayward Aquarite cell plugs directly into your Omni PL. And you need to plug in a flow switch if you don’t have one.

We recommend you get a cell that is rated for 2X your pool volume. That is a Hayward T-15 or 940 cell rated for 40,000 gallons. You will also need the Hayward P-KIT plumbing kit with unions and a flow switch.

Installation can be DIY if you can cut and glue PVC.

Post pics of your equipment pad so we can see your situation.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[chapterthree]

Thank you for the replies, and sounds like that is great news for me!

So to confirm, all I need to buy is something like this: Goldline Hayward T-CELL-15 Chlorinator Cell Kit 40K gal.
And possibly the P-KIT, and that's it?

How do I know if I might already have a flow sensor? I'm going to attach some pictures, and I have more if other angles are needed, and I annotated the flow on one of them.

Looks like I don't have a good spot to install the SWG after the heat pump

 

[ajw22]

Check if flow switch is attached to the board…



You can mount the cell horizontally to the right or vertically. Leave enough ground clearance so the cell hump faces down.

 

[bradgray]

So to confirm, all I need to buy is something like this: Goldline Hayward T-CELL-15 Chlorinator Cell Kit 40K gal.

Yessir.

And possibly the P-KIT, and that's it?

Yessir. The PKIT comes with the flow sensor and the unions.

How do I know if I might already have a flow sensor?

Allen gave a way, but it's also usually obvious and I don't see it in your plumbing.

Looks like I don't have a good spot to install the SWG after the heat pump

You could do what Allen suggested. You may also have JUST enough room if you cut and reset two 45°/22.5° couplers further back.

 

[chapterthree]

Awesome! I went ahead and ordered the P-KIT, 40K W3T-CELL-15, and K-1766.

To confirm I would just be using the following salt, correct? And I can also start adding some of the salt (up to 2000ppm) before I install the SWG, correct?

Do I need to start adjusting my chemistry to SWG chemistry before adding salt, before activating the SWG, or do I do that after the SWG is running?

 

[ajw22]

Awesome! I went ahead and ordered the P-KIT, 40K W3T-CELL-15, and K-1766.

Great!

To confirm I would just be using the following salt, correct?

I never used that salt. I prefer finding well priced pool salt from Morton’s or Diamond Crystal or Aquasalt. Do not use Clorox pool salt.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

And I can also start adding some of the salt (up to 2000ppm) before I install the SWG, correct?

You should wait until you get the 1766 and test what salt level is currently in your water to start with.

Do I need to start adjusting my chemistry to SWG chemistry before adding salt, before activating the SWG, or do I do that after the SWG is running?

What adjustments do you think SWG chemistry requires?

 

[chapterthree]

What adjustments do you think SWG chemistry requires?

I thought I saw in a few other posts that some of the chemistry needs to change a bit with a SWG. Is that not the case? I did review Water Balance for SWGs but that looks like standard ranges anyway.

Here's what my pool store/Hayward dealer said about just going with a SWG (I originally asked them for a quote for Sense & Dispense):

Hey Kevin you can plug the salt cell directly to the OMNI $1,124.65 plus about $300 for install. I do not recommend this, you will not like the result! When you connect a salt cell directly into an OMNI the TCELL runs on a timer and is not based on what chlorine needs of the pool are. Salt generated chlorine has a ph in the 13 range (14 is highest) requiring frequently manually adding acid to the pool to balance the PH. It is also scale forming which can negatively impact the formation of scale on your tile. Also high ph is not comfortable to swim in. Our eyes ph is about 7.4 which is most comfortable.

I presume I'm just getting 'pool stored'?

 

[ajw22]

See

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Your pool store guy is clueless how things really work.

We don’t recommend the Sense and Dispense.

 

[chapterthree]

Your pool store guy is clueless how things really work.

Yep, since discovering this site I have realized that. I was already skeptical of them, but it's clear now.

We don’t recommend the Sense and Dispense.

Same thing here, I have since discovered that a SWG and frequent/accurate testing is the best setup.

 

[bradgray]

Yep, since discovering this site I have realized that. I was already skeptical of them, but it's clear now.

He's not far off, and he's not wrong that the system generates chlorine based on timing and is going to cause pH rise. But TFP explains this in better detail.

Same thing here, I have since discovered that a SWG and frequent/accurate testing is the best setup.

Yes. We don't like those systems even in the service world where you'd think we'd love robots to do our job. And actually, we would, if they could. But they are very poor at it.

 

[chapterthree]

Do we like this better?

 

[ajw22]

Do we like this better?
View attachment 475214

Yes, that will dissolve much better. Grab it while it is available. Get some extra bags at that price. Salt does not spoil.

 

[chapterthree]

OK awesome, thanks!

I have a 40K W3T-CELL-15 on the way, which SWG would I select in PoolMath?

 

[ajw22]

OK awesome, thanks!

I have a 40K W3T-CELL-15 on the way, which SWG would I select in PoolMath?
View attachment 475224

Aquarite T-15

 

[kello711]

Any reason why your heaters are plumbed in series? This might be an opportunity to install some bypass valves and reconfigure the heater plumbing into a parallel setup.

 

[chapterthree]

Any reason why your heaters are plumbed in series? This might be an opportunity to install some bypass valves and reconfigure the heater plumbing into a parallel setup.

Probably a fair question that I may not have the knowledge to answer. I'm a pool n00b, this is my first ever pool, it was built last year. The quick answer is 'that's how the installer/builder installed them'. But let me describe my heating scenarios:

1. The propane heater is exclusively used to get the hot tub up to temp. The propane tank is a 120 gallon tank.
2. The heat pump gets both the pool and hot tub to the base temps, depending on the time of year. Right now it keeps the pool at 55 and the hot tub at 65. In the summer the heat pump keeps them both in the low 80s.

What would be the advantage/benefit of having them plumbed in parallel? How would I even do that with 2 bodies of water that are controlled via automated valves?

 

[ajw22]

Pentair recommends a HP and gas heater be put in series.

The concept is for the heat pump to try and maintain the desired water temperature. If the HP cannot do it then the gas heater can be supplementary heat when necessary.

A HP is lower cost BTUs than gas heat BTUs. Use the lower cost heat first then supplement as necessary.

 

[kello711]

Pentair recommends a HP and gas heater be put in series.

And Hayward specifically calls out that a heat pump and gas/solar heater must be plumbed in parallel to each other in order to void the warranty of the heat pump.