Adding SWG With Hayward OmniPL

And Hayward specifically calls out that a heat pump and gas/solar heater must be plumbed in parallel to each other in order to void the warranty of the heat pump.
People who have two heaters have an objective for what they are looking to accomplish with two versus one.

It depends what that objective is.
 
And Hayward specifically calls out that a heat pump and gas/solar heater must be plumbed in parallel to each other in order to void the warranty of the heat pump.
Interesting, the regional Hayward rep was on-site at the time to wire up all the equipment and program everything. He didn't say anything about that.
 
The manual says wired in parallel, not plumbed in parallel, right?

But you are correct in that they did not follow the instructions there, which indicate the water heated by the gas heater should not go into the heat pump. And there's supposed to be a bypass valve which there is not.

Seems like at the very least the gas heater should have been after the heat pump.
 
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In order to add the Chlorinator to OmniPL before plugging it in (like it says on the red sticker) do I have to go through the entire Config Wizard?

I hope it remembers the current settings because I didn't configure it, the Hayward rep did, and reviewing the manual indicates there are some complicated settings (like what lives on what relay, etc).
 
In order to add the Chlorinator to OmniPL before plugging it in (like it says on the red sticker) do I have to go through the entire Config Wizard?

I hope it remembers the current settings because I didn't configure it, the Hayward rep did, and reviewing the manual indicates there are some complicated settings (like what lives on what relay, etc).
You do need to enter the configuration, yes. But you only need to enter Bodies of Water and add the chlorinator and select your model for Pool and Spa. Then schedule and set %s.

The only settings you'll lose, are ones you intentionally override.
 
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Should I redo my plumbing? My main concern is that the propane heater is before the HP, so it's sending very hot water through it.

I'm going to have to do some plumbing work to add my SWCG, so wondering if I should tackle the heater order at that time as well. Then it's like, if I'm going to do that much, should I also add heater bypasses...

Because of the unfortunate equipment order that my builder created, I feel like all of that is going to create quite the spaghetti mess of plumbing with some long back and forth runs.

Another curveball is the thermostat, I'm not sure how that is installed so it makes me slightly uncomfortable.
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Should I redo my plumbing? My main concern is that the propane heater is before the HP, so it's sending very hot water through it.
It actually is not sending very hot water through your HP. Maximum temperature rise out of a gas heater is about 17F.

Read Heater Maintenance - Further Reading

If your spa is 100F then the heater may output water up to 120F depending on your flow rate.
 
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You can plumb two heaters in series or parallel. There are pros and cons to each. It depends how you intend to run your equipment with your pool and spa.

And it depends how your OmniPL can control the heaters in each configuration.

Do you care about the Hayward warranty on your heaters?
 
It actually is not sending very hot water through your HP. Maximum temperature rise out of a gas heater is about 17F.
Hmm OK, that's an interesting point, I guess I didn't really stop to think about it, I was thinking the water must come out of the heater blazing hot to be able to have enough energy to be able to cool down on the way to the hot tub and still be hot enough to heat the water.
Do you care about the Hayward warranty on your heaters?
That's kind of a loaded question :LOL: I mean yes, but how long are the warranties? (I have not dug through that paperwork yet) If it's a year I will probably be fine. If it is 5 or 10 years and something goes wrong then I will hold the pool builder financially responsible since he did not install it to Hayward specifications, which is sad because he exclusively deals with Hayward products. Hint: he is not very good.
 
OK, time to start making some cuts. I started to lay things out, and due to the 12" required before the flow switch, this is pushing this extension out a bit further than I was hoping.

Any thoughts or suggestions here? How much space should I have between the SWG couplers and each fitting? Is the amount of space between the 2 90's too close?

swg_layout.jpg
 
Place the flow switch after the cell. The cell can be counted as the 12” of straight pipe.

Leave enough clearance under the cell that the hump on the cell can be facing down.
 
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Edit: Just putting this here in case somebody else runs across this. The OmniPL Console UI is actually very intuitive, it's not a long menu you have to 'scroll' through, you actually select which area you want to update. What I did was selected the type of cell, selected the port that it was plugged into, then plugged it in. Everything is working well so far.

I've got everything plumbed in and glued together. Going to test for leaks this morning.

For plugging in the SWG to the Hayward OmniPL, there are big red stickers everywhere that say to select the cell in the menu before plugging in. But when exactly do I then plug in the cell?

Do I plug it in after I get past that part of the Config Wizard (but before finishing in the menu)?
Do I finish the config wizard, let the system turn back on, and then plug in the cell?
Something else?

Based on the wording in the installation manual, it seems that I select the type of cell, click next, and when it's at the 'Where is the Cell Located' screen I plug it in, so that it detects it?

hayward_cell_install.jpg
 
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I know it’s been almost two months now, so assume you got it all working. I just recently installed SWG with my OmniPL as well. What I did was add it to config then shut down the whole system. While off, I plugged it in.

One thing I am curious about tho is how yours fit in. I bought a different brand t-cell-15 equivalent and I am unable to put the internal cover back on because the plug protrudes too far. I don’t think it’s because it’s aftermarket. I notice from other pictures of Omni units that the plug goes directly into the main board. However, my OmniPL has an extension board it came with the makes it protrude a couple inches out from board. My system is about 2 years old. I wonder if this is to prevent some issues where I’ve seen the board get fried from a bad cell. If that were to occur then the extension board would probably be replaceable.

Anyone know?

Edit: ignore me for being an idiot. I just needed to pull the red tag on front.
 
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