Adding more chlorine

[albertg]

Right now my pool is consuming about 7ppm in 6 days for the last 3 cycles (18 days). If I had added 14ppm at the beginning of one cycle, would I have been able to wait 12 days before adding again (not currently using the pool)? Is that how the relationship works? Or does chlorine get consumed at a different rate depending how much is in there?

One example I read is that it doesnt make sense to add more than SLAM value when doing a SLAM. My question is, why not? Wouldn't it be easier to stay at SLAM level if you over chlorinate, not risking the chlorine to dip below SLAM? I mean if you know something is eating the chlorine then it makes sense, right? What am I missing?

 

[wireform]

Well right now we are still very early in the swim season. Whatever you're consuming now may be double that when the suns angle changes and the more it'll consume. I'd recommend an SWCG for that pool and call it a day. Once you dial in what the pool consumes daily you'll adjust the % and run time to give you chlorine output needed.

 

[mknauss]

One example I read is that it doesnt make sense to add more than SLAM value when doing a SLAM. My question is, why not? Wouldn't it be easier to stay at SLAM level if you over chlorinate, not risking the chlorine to dip below SLAM? I mean if you know something is eating the chlorine then it makes sense, right? What am I missing?

When you go above the ranges of FC (target range for maintenance and SLAM level when doing a SLAM) the FC above that level burns off much more quickly due to UV. Plus, elevated FC can bleach out vinyl liners, though you do not have that issue.

Use the ranges as shown in the FC/CYA Levels

 

[albertg]

When you go above the ranges of FC (target range for maintenance and SLAM level when doing a SLAM) the FC above that level burns off much more quickly due to UV. Plus, elevated FC can bleach out vinyl liners, though you do not have that issue.

Use the ranges as shown in the FC/CYA Levels

so you are saying that at some point the chlorine burns faster. Is that true only around slam levels? Or is it also true if say I’m trying to maintain an fc of 5 and I double dose to 10 before I go on a 4 day vacation?

 

[mknauss]

It will burn off faster above Target ranges also, just not as fast as in the SLAM example.

For short vacations, of a few days, raising your FC to near SLAM level should get you by. We also recommend the use of Trichlor tablets in a floating dispenser when you are going to be away for more than a couple days. Just take into account the amount of CYA added in your future FC levels.

 

[albertg]

Well right now we are still very early in the swim season. Whatever you're consuming now may be double that when the suns angle changes and the more it'll consume. I'd recommend an SWCG for that pool and call it a day. Once you dial in what the pool consumes daily you'll adjust the % and run time to give you chlorine output needed.

Funny thing is before I moved into this house and into this pool, my first, it was setup with a sand/de filter and Hayward swcg that apparently wasn’t working (says the pool guy). It was cheaper for us to just convert to cartridge filter and standard chem pool. I didn’t know much at the time and my wife and kids moved in first so priority was to get the pool open, clear, and working. I might’ve done things differently but no regrets. I’m learning a lot and am enjoying this.

 

[mknauss]

If the SWCG equipment is still there, I would recommend investigating repairing it. A SWCG reduces the daily pool maintenance chores dramatically. And when you go away, it will keep adding chlorine. We leave for weeks (to over a month) with no issues due to our SWCG.

 

[albertg]

If the SWCG equipment is still there, I would recommend investigating repairing it. A SWCG reduces the daily pool maintenance chores dramatically. And when you go away, it will keep adding chlorine. We leave for weeks (to over a month) with no issues due to our SWCG.

i don’t have the filter but I still have the turbo cell (t-cell 15) and panel box (controller?). How could I test it?

 

[mknauss]

Hayward cells can be tested by many pool stores.

Does it turn on? If it does there is a diagnostic sequence that you can get to analyze it. @JamesW can give us some guidance on that.

 

[albertg]

It is technically still wired to the pool electric panel.

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings from the box when you press the little black button?

What are the first four characters of the serial numbers from the box and cell?

 

[mknauss]

It looks like the cell was cut out. That is a bummer. Not sure you can use the diagnostics that way.

 

[albertg]

What are the diagnostic readings from the box when you press the little black button?

What are the first four characters of the serial numbers from the box and cell?

When I cycle through the each press of the diagnostic button I get:

25
31.9
0.00
SP
-0.00
AL - 0
r 1.59
F-15 (upside down F)
0.00

i assume the serial number is the barcode? If so the first four characters are:

Box: 3A14
Cell: 3E14

 

[JamesW]

They are both from 2014. I suspect that the box is fine. The cell is probably dead.

Some pool stores test cells. You can bring the cell in for testing before buying a new one.

 

[albertg]

I realized the cell wasn't plugged in when I took the reading. I'm wondering if I should plumb this up and just buy a new cell if this one doesn't work. Am I missing anything else (have the box, cell, flow sensor). I read that these can go bad every 4-5 years. Do I really have to replace that often?

 

[mknauss]

A T15 with your size pool will last a good 5 years or more. It is like buying your chlorine upfront. At the end the cost is essentially a wash.
It would appear all you need is the cell and installation. Then some salt.

 

[albertg]

Thanks Marty. Time to go to pool school on swcg.