Adding CYA and Chlorine - Timing

[Madelineacting]

What order and how far apart do you add stabilizer and chlorine? (Specifically using "shock"). I wasn't sure if it was dangerous to add together like other chemicals

 

[Texas Splash]

We don't put one chemical on top of the other, but if you are adding stabilizer via the sock method (see below), there's no wait time required. Get that sock going somewhere (return jet, skimmer, or elsewhere) and pour liquid chlorine slowly near a different return jet(s). Have a good day.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Madelineacting]

We don't put one chemical on top of the other, but if you are adding stabilizer via the sock method (see below), there's no wait time required. Get that sock going somewhere (return jet, skimmer, or elsewhere) and pour liquid chlorine slowly near a different return jet(s). Have a good day.

I'm using chlorine granules (pre dissolved in water). So I'd leave the sock in while I pour in the chlorine?

Is it better to let the CYA get up to recommended 30 ppm before adding the chlorine?

For background I've been having to shock my pool every night because the chlorine drops to 0 by 11am when the sun comes out. It's not ideal because then I cant keep the solar cover on. I had planned to shock one per week and then use the dissolving pucks in between but the pucks are doing absolutely nothing

 

[Texas Splash]

The sock method eliminates the need to pre-dissolve the granules, but if you've already done that and poured it in the pool, then there is no need for the sock. You can add the chlorine at any time. Yes, with dissolved stabilizer in the water, go ahead and increase the FC level.

Now another discussion - the shocks you are doing. There is normally no need to perform daily or weekly "shocks" when the water is well-balanced and chlorinated. But we know you've had next to no sun protection (CYA) for your chlorine. So what I would suggest is that after you add 30 ppm worth of stabilizer, watch your FC consumption each day. In 24 hrs you should not lose more than 4 ppm of FC unless you have a large swim party or something. If after increasing the CYA you find the FC level dropping fast, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if you have an algae problem that would require a SLAM Process to kill the algae.

Let us know if you have any questions.

 

[Madelineacting]

thank you! I meant the chlorine shock granules is what I add pre dissolved. I did do an overnight chlorine loss test and have been monitoring multiple times a day. TC+FC matched and they always go to 0 after a few hours of sun so it seems like it's the sun causing hte issue.

I just set up the CYA sock just now and will shock later - should I just add enough shock to bring to FC 3ish or should I do a full super chlorination shock? If it hits 10 ppm, will it be too high with the CYA and stay there?
For reference of why I'm considering that, the pool has now had no chlorine for 3 days so I thought I needed a super shock.

[I know for next time that I need to add the stabilizer when I open the pool, but this was my first pool and thought the stabilized chlorine pucks would work as intended).

 

[Chasarms]

If you were using trichlor pucks, you should have some CYA in the water already. If you've been using them all summer, you may be over 30 already. Each fully dissolved 8 oz puck adds about 14 ppm of CYA to a pool of your size..

You will experience some natural, slow CYA loss depending on sun exposure. Best practice would be to test CYA before adding.

Also, 3 ppm is a minimum. If you simply add enough liquid to get to 3 ppm in the morning, you are very likely to have very little if any chlorine the next day. You will certainly be below safe levels to prevent algae. It is pretty normal to lose 3-4 ppm per day of FC even with appropriate CYA levels, depending on sun exposure of the pool. I lose 4 ppm with my CYA in the 40-50 range because my pool is fully exposed to the sun all day.

You should be adding enough chlorine that you still have 3 ppm or so BEFORE you add each day. That said, you may be at 6-7 ppm immediately after adding and that is perfectly fine.

Also, if youi have very high sun exposure, you might consider going to 40-50 CYA. It will ultimately reduce your chlorine use.

 

[mknauss]

"Aqua Chek 7 in 1 test strips"

Is that your only method of testing your pool water chemistry?

 

[Madelineacting]

If you were using trichlor pucks, you should have some CYA in the water already. If you've been using them all summer, you may be over 30 already. Each fully dissolved 8 oz puck adds about 14 ppm of CYA to a pool of your size..

You will experience some natural, slow CYA loss depending on sun exposure. Best practice would be to test CYA before adding.

Also, 3 ppm is a minimum. If you simply add enough liquid to get to 3 ppm in the morning, you are very likely to have very little if any chlorine the next day. You will certainly be below safe levels to prevent algae. It is pretty normal to lose 3-4 ppm per day of FC even with appropriate CYA levels, depending on sun exposure of the pool. I lose 4 ppm with my CYA in the 40-50 range because my pool is fully exposed to the sun all day.

You should be adding enough chlorine that you still have 3 ppm or so BEFORE you add each day. That said, you may be at 6-7 ppm immediately after adding and that is perfectly fine.

Also, if youi have very high sun exposure, you might consider going to 40-50 CYA. It will ultimately reduce your chlorine use.

That makes a lot of sense, thanks! I will shock tonight and then monitor tomorrow and see what I am left with at night. I've only had the pool 3 weeks so the 3 pucks that never really dissolved havent added much. My test strips show no CYA (yes I know there is a better reco test kit but what I have for now, it definitely shows 0)

 

[Madelineacting]

"Aqua Chek 7 in 1 test strips"

Is that your only method of testing your pool water chemistry?

Yeah, I have 2 other brand test strips as well that I tried just wanted to confirm that they all showed the same/similar reading in case one was off. I've read through the posts and know there is a recommended kit but I dont have it

 

[mknauss]

You would be better off getting a drop based test of any kind than the strips. Can you find what they call a 5-way?

Then just add up the stabilizer you add to the pool as being the CYA level in the pool.

Have you read Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools - Trouble Free Pool

 

[Chasarms]

Test strips are pretty unpredictable for all tests, but especially CYA. Even the Taylor test can't really tell you anything with CYA levels below 20. If you add 30 ppm of stabilizer based on Pool Math, you may find that you end up in the 40-50 ppm range once you have a reasonably accurate testing method. If so, you're still fine.

 

[Texas Splash]

Madeline, with a small seasonal pool, I would go to your local Walmart (or pool supply store) and see if they have a simple 5 or 7-way drop tester. They are fairly cheap at Walmart and will do the job for you. Like the article states, if the water ever gets out of control yucky, you can always dump it and start fresh. But it is important that you get comfortable using the PoolMath APP or our original PoolMath web page so that you can determine how much chlorine or acid to add at any given time. Just practice with either one of those and let us know if you have any problems.

 

[Madelineacting]

You would be better off getting a drop based test of any kind than the strips. Can you find what they call a 5-way?

Then just add up the stabilizer you add to the pool as being the CYA level in the pool.

Have you read Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools - Trouble Free Pool

Is it like this?

 

[Texas Splash]

That's one will work for you. Walmart may have a drop kit a little cheaper, but either is fine for your seasonal pool.

 

[Madelineacting]

That's one will work for you. Walmart may have a drop kit a little cheaper, but either is fine for your seasonal pool.

It's 2pm and the FC is at 4ppm ...considering it's been 0 every day for 3 weeks, infuriating me with shocking every single night then swimming in an non sanitized pool, this is quite exciting.

So, am I supposed to add more tonight only if it drops below 2 when I test later?
Also, I read that I shouldn't use my solar cover after shocking/adding chlorine so that sort of renders it useless overnight. or is it okay to use anyway and it just won't last as long? Or is it like, it immediately kills all the bubbles and eats away at the cover? And is that only within the 4 hours of first shocking or is that in general when there is any chlorine in the pool?!

I have a severe debris problem because of the location of the pool (was the only place option) so I'm using the solar cover more so for debris than heat at this point!

 

[Texas Splash]

am I supposed to add more tonight only if it drops below 2 when I test later?

The important thing now, to prevent algae (green or cloudy) is to keep the FC around 3-5 ppm. Never let it drop below 2. Is it's bedtime and the FC is 3 as an example, you should increase it to 5 before going to bed. Or if you usually test in the morning and it's low, increase it. As long as you have a CYA of 30 ppm, an FC of 3-5 (even 6 or so) is just fine for the pool and swimming.

We don't usually use the term "shock" here like you might hear in other areas because it gets misused a lot from pool stores, friends, and neighbors who just bomb/shock their pool with high levels of chlorine without proper measuring. You should have no need to "shock" a pool, and by that I mean increase the FC exceptionally high. In your small pool, if the water gets yucky, just empty it, clean it, and start over. It's easier for you. That seasonal pool link tells you all about it. But just maintaining an FC of 5 or so is not "shocking" a pool, and if you want to place the cover on at night, it's fine.

 

[Madelineacting]

The important thing now, to prevent algae (green or cloudy) is to keep the FC around 3-5 ppm. Never let it drop below 2. Is it's bedtime and the FC is 3 as an example, you should increase it to 5 before going to bed. Or if you usually test in the morning and it's low, increase it. As long as you have a CYA of 30 ppm, an FC of 3-5 (even 6 or so) is just fine for the pool and swimming.

We don't usually use the term "shock" here like you might hear in other areas because it gets misused a lot from pool stores, friends, and neighbors who just bomb/shock their pool with high levels of chlorine without proper measuring. You should have no need to "shock" a pool, and by that I mean increase the FC exceptionally high. In your small pool, if the water gets yucky, just empty it, clean it, and start over. It's easier for you. That seasonal pool link tells you all about it. But just maintaining an FC of 5 or so is not "shocking" a pool, and if you want to place the cover on at night, it's fine.

Hi! So I've gotten down timing to put chlorine every 2nd night and it seems to be working. I missed Sunday night because of a large storm and when I checked in AM the FC was 0. It may have sat at 0 for like 8 hours. What would be the typical protocol next? Is it too late I've messed up the cycle and algae started growing during that 8 hour period? Should I do a super chlorination or use algaecide, etc. thanks again!

 

[Texas Splash]

If you ever see that the FC has crashed too low, of course bump it up immediately. I would even take it up slightly above the normal range for the day just because of the added stress on the water. For example, if your normal range was 5-7, I'd increase it to 7-9. Then I'd watch the water clarity and FC consumption closely for the next day or two. If the water looked hazy or FC was dropping too fast each day, I run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if algae got in there. If nothing bad happened, you got lucky and caught it in time.

 

[sbcpool]

If you're adding every other night, you might consider saving some chlorine and adding every night. The closer to "target FC" you can keep it, the better things will be. You are also increasing your chlorine consumption by 50% unnecessarily.

Every pool is different in terms of total consumption, but the basic principles remain the same. In my pool with CYA at 30 I'd lose about 50% FC per day. If I wanted to keep above the minimum FC and add chlorine only every other day I'd have to raise FC to at least 4x minimum + 1 (4 x [2 + 1] = 12) so that after two days of 50% losses I was still above the minimum. In your case adding 9 ppm FC requires adding about 28 oz. 10% bleach. If you add every day you need to raise FC to 2x minimum + 1 (2 x [2 + 1] = 6), which for your pool means increasing by 3 ppm (9 oz. 10% bleach). So when you add every other day you use 28 oz. 10% bleach every two days, and when you add every day you use 18 oz. 10% bleach every two days.

Hopefully that makes sense.