I need to add approximately 35 pounds of CH increaser to my pool. My level is currently 100 and the manufacturer of my fiberglass pool recommends a level of 300. I took a sample of my water into a local pool store so I could make sure I tested my water correctly, and they told me to add 35 pounds of CH increaser, in 8-9 pound increments. I get the same figure when I plug my test results into the Pool Math Calculator so I assume this is accurate. The lady at the pool store said to put the CH into a pillow case each time I add it, and tie the pillow case to the ladder because the CH increaser can harm the floor of my pool because it gets hot when added to water. This sounds crazy to me and contradicts what is taught on here, so I assume that I need to broadcast it around the deep end instead. Since I need to add 35 pounds of it, how many pounds should I add at one time, and how long do I need to run the pump afterwards before I shut the pump off or add more of it to my pool? I know from experience that it gets hot when you add it to a bucket of water, so I assume that it is important to brush well after broadcasting it. I don't want to do anything that could potentially harm the floor of my fiberglass pool so I wanted to make sure I understand how to add it before I do anything.
Adding a large volume of CH increaser to pool
- Thread starter nadar
- Start date
borjis
LifeTime Supporter
History has shown that pool store test results are seldom accurate, so the first thing to recommend is
one of the test kits that will give you 100% correct results. TF100 or Taylor K2006C.
I see in your signature you have the K2006? Are you out of CH test reagent?
I don't use much CH, but when I do add it, it get's mixed in a 1 gallon bucket of pool water. (usually a few pounds at time is fine)
Just be aware the water will heat up quite quickly. A few pounds will make it hot. Then pour it over a return jet
in the deep end. You can broadcast it to the floor, of course. With lots of brushing to make sure it all gets dissolved quickly.
I just choose to do the bucket way.
I usually add half of what is called for then test. Then add whatever more is necessary.
Occasionally the dosage is incorrect and can be over shot, so adding half takes care of that problem.
I would not trust what the Pool store told you. Small chance that is correct.
one of the test kits that will give you 100% correct results. TF100 or Taylor K2006C.
I see in your signature you have the K2006? Are you out of CH test reagent?
I don't use much CH, but when I do add it, it get's mixed in a 1 gallon bucket of pool water. (usually a few pounds at time is fine)
Just be aware the water will heat up quite quickly. A few pounds will make it hot. Then pour it over a return jet
in the deep end. You can broadcast it to the floor, of course. With lots of brushing to make sure it all gets dissolved quickly.
I just choose to do the bucket way.
I usually add half of what is called for then test. Then add whatever more is necessary.
Occasionally the dosage is incorrect and can be over shot, so adding half takes care of that problem.
I would not trust what the Pool store told you. Small chance that is correct.
I see where you say you used the pool store to double check your own results.
Check your tap water and see what the CH is for it. Mine is around 30 right now.
I have a concrete pool (that’s really old) and it eats calcium for dinner. I buy two Joe Ice Melt 50# (red) bags from Sams and have it delivered to my door about twice per year. (I’ve learned the hard way to always have it on hand). So I can’t comment specifically on the “official” pool store CH increaser, but I’d be very leery of what else it contains.
I usually add in 25# increments by dragging the bag around the pool with me and using a scoop to throw it across the water - more in the deep than in the shallow. Usually takes about 3 days to see the “true” CH level reflect in my testing.
If I were you, I’d order from Sams and wait a few days before I put the pool store stuff in my water.
Just be CERTAIN you actually do the order and address the CH soon. I didn’t last year (better things to do, forgot, but the water looks great) at the start of summer and it took me until the end of summer to realize why we were seeing the sudden breakdown of a DIY resurface we did a few years back. (Doh!) The CH is more for the protection of the surface of the pool (especially concrete ones) than the water.
Check your tap water and see what the CH is for it. Mine is around 30 right now.
I have a concrete pool (that’s really old) and it eats calcium for dinner. I buy two Joe Ice Melt 50# (red) bags from Sams and have it delivered to my door about twice per year. (I’ve learned the hard way to always have it on hand). So I can’t comment specifically on the “official” pool store CH increaser, but I’d be very leery of what else it contains.
I usually add in 25# increments by dragging the bag around the pool with me and using a scoop to throw it across the water - more in the deep than in the shallow. Usually takes about 3 days to see the “true” CH level reflect in my testing.
If I were you, I’d order from Sams and wait a few days before I put the pool store stuff in my water.
Just be CERTAIN you actually do the order and address the CH soon. I didn’t last year (better things to do, forgot, but the water looks great) at the start of summer and it took me until the end of summer to realize why we were seeing the sudden breakdown of a DIY resurface we did a few years back. (Doh!) The CH is more for the protection of the surface of the pool (especially concrete ones) than the water.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
@Household6 the OP has a fiberglass pool and needs CH for different reasons and a different level then your concrete pool.
Riiiiight. Buuuut what does that have to do with any differences? (Seriously, what am I missing?)
This is such an alien concept to me.... I;ve been battling high CH ever since I took over testing.
I don't know about pillowcase and such, but I do know the pool store lady is correct --- it will get hot. Hot enough to melt ice in freezing temperatures. That's why you don't mess around premixing it -- the potential for burns is too high.
Adding it slowly is probably prudent. If you need to push it around with the brush, it'll be a whole lot easier if the piles are small enough to do that. And we've had many, many threads here over the years complaining about Calcium clouding the pool. It will clear with time. No reason to panic if it happens to you.
I don't know about pillowcase and such, but I do know the pool store lady is correct --- it will get hot. Hot enough to melt ice in freezing temperatures. That's why you don't mess around premixing it -- the potential for burns is too high.
Adding it slowly is probably prudent. If you need to push it around with the brush, it'll be a whole lot easier if the piles are small enough to do that. And we've had many, many threads here over the years complaining about Calcium clouding the pool. It will clear with time. No reason to panic if it happens to you.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Fiberglass pools don’t “eat” calcium the way your old concrete pool does. His water should maintain the calcium level unless there is a major drain or dilution.
Totally understand.
I suggested they test their tap water to see if that could be a culprit - if you add water (either a little over an extended time or in a sudden large amount) that has a CH of 30 it’s going to pull down your pool water CH of 300, right?
I included the info re my CH hungry concrete pool in my response to show my vast “experience” with CH, which IMO seem to be applicable. No? (I certainly don’t want to give out bad info!)
Since OP joined TFP 6 months ago, and judging from their careful to include all info question (some of which the initial response seemed to miss) I was concluding they’re beginners. Given that many open their pools around Memorial Day I assumed this might even be their first week or initial opening. (But hey, we all know what happens when we Rear U ME).
Do you have any suggestions on why the OP’s CH might have suddenly dropped from 300 to 30?
Steve_in_C
Bronze Supporter
I have always spread CaCl2 pellets around the perimeter. If it is spread thin there won't be enough head to damage. Just make sure it's not heaped up at all. Only 1 granule deep. BTW I use the following snow melt product for calcium MELT 25 lb Bucket Calcium Chloride Pellets Professional Strength Ice Melter - Walmart.com
Most of our aquifers around here don't have high calcium.
Most of our aquifers around here don't have high calcium.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I use the same brand, but get it in 25# bag for $11 (with free delivery). I might spring for a couple of the $26 buckets though and refill from bags as they would be more convenient and easier to store.
Let us know you're not a robot - Sam's Club
www.samsclub.com
My bad - do you have any suggestions on what could suddenly pull CH from 300 to 100 (not 30)?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I’m referring to the OP’s situation. (Please remove your focus from me and help the OP.)
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
OP never said his/her CH dropped from 300 to 100 or 30.
I think the OP got the proper direction and will ask for clarification if needed.
I just went through his post history. All of it. Where does he say his CH was ever 300?
Said manufacturer suggests level of 300, right?
Said current level is 100, right?
Unless this is their initial pool fill (which could be the case, but most would have stated) I went from the frame of mind they’ve had water in their pool before. (And unless the CH in their drinking water is 100, I can’t imagine how this could not be the scenario.)
Maybe I should have asked “what have your CH levels previously been?” But that’s still inapplicable to what the OP was asking. They wanted to know “how” to add “so much” CH to their water.
My point was I add ice melt to my pool often, and often in 25-35’ish lbs increments. I merely throw it across the water to distribute it.
Meaning - pool store CH increaser may be different, 35 lbs isn’t a lot, and a pillow case isn’t necessary.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Steve_in_C
Bronze Supporter
Not being that far from Faytetteville, your fill water may be similar to mine. However mine is well water and yours may come from the Cape Fear River. My fill water CH is 17 (as expressed in CaCO3 mg/L) and was measured by KAR laboratories (copper <0.02mg/dL and total iron <0.01mg/dL). pH is 5.5, other than that I feel that I have pretty good fill water. Fayetteville's water test indicate a hardness of 31. I assume that is expressed in CaCO3. https://www.faypwc.com/pwc-water-report-2017.pdf