Acid wash or re-surface

It has a lot of steps and to a newbee it seems that any one error could sabatage the whole process

"In general, it is safer to exchange water in a pool rather than drain. We’d like to share a method done from time to time by members of TFP.[3] The process to exchange water depends on determining a few factors:

  • The temperature of your fill water versus the pool water temperature.
  • Does the pool water have salt in it above 2000 ppm or a Calcium Hardness of 800 ppm or more?
  • Essentially, is the pool water high in Total Dissolved Solids (TDS).

Where will the effluent be discharged?​

Prior to exchanging the pool water to fresh, you need to determine where is the effluent (pool water you remove) going? Some municipalities have requirements. Be sure to research that. In most areas, it is easiest and best to drain to your sewer clean out at your home. If the water has salt in it, be wary of draining to your grass or plants. It may do them harm.

What pump to use?​

You also will need a pump to remove the water from the pool. It is not advised to use your pool pump. It is a fairly expensive piece of equipment and if by chance it loses prime during the process you could damage it. A low power (1/3-1/2 hp) submersible utility pump is a good choice.

The rate at which it pumps is very dependent on what hose size and length you use to direct the effluent. If using a garden hose to a sewer cleanout, expect a flow rate of 6-9 gallons per minute.

Pump from the deep end or near the surface?​

To determine whether you pump from the deep end of the pool or from near the surface of the pool, depends on your fill and pool water characteristic.

Adding water to the deep end while pumping from a top step or near the surface is recommended if your fill water is much colder (>20F) then the pool water.

Put the pump in the deep end and fill from the shallow end if your fill water is nearly the same temperature as the pool water, you have a saltwater pool, or have very high CH. Put the fill hose in the skimmer, if you have one, in the shallow end. If no skimmer, then use a bucket to put the water hose in and have the top of the bucket above the pool water surface. Be sure to secure the hose to the bucket.

Replacing water in-place process depends on several factors:[4]

  • Pool Water TDS (PWTDS)
  • Pool Water Temperature (PWT)
  • Fill Water TDS (FWTDS)
  • Fill Water Temperature (FWT)
DeltaT = (PWT - PWTDS / 165) - (FWT - FWTDS / 165)

If DeltaT is positive, then you want to fill at the lowest point and extract at the surface and at the greatest distance from the lowest point.

If DeltaT is negative, then you want to extract at the lowest point and fill at the surface and at the greatest distance from the lowest point. <-Preferred as it is easier to do with a drain pump and you can fill inside one of the skimmers.

If |DeltaT| < 5, then there will be a lot of mixing.

Salt is the largest component of TDS. No matter what chlorination method you use, salt is added to the pool water and can be significant after many years. Every 1000 ppm of salt is worth about 6F in temperature difference.

Balance the water flow out and in​

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same.

When you have the pump you will use, take the effluent hose and fill a 5 gallon bucket while timing it. Calculate your gallons per minute (gpm) from that. Then you can estimate how long to run the process.

It is suggested to exchange 5-10% more water than needed to reduce your CYA/CH/etc to account for errors.

Be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process.

Once started do not stop until complete​

Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish."
Like kimkats said, the instructions are just to help you be the most efficient with the process so you don’t waste any more water than needed. You’re generally trying to only drain the “bad” water while adding back “fresh” water at the same time. The more splashing that happens the more the good and bad water can mix and end up draining more of the good water than needed.

The note about making sure where you are draining the water is good though. Don’t just dump 10k+ gallons of water in your neighbors backyard.
 
I will give the water exchange process more thought. The first thing I need to concentrate on is gettting rid of free chlorine. I have a trouble free test kit on the way (SWG-pro).
 
I will give the water exchange process more thought. The first thing I need to concentrate on is gettting rid of free chlorine. I have a trouble free test kit on the way (SWG-pro).
There’s not much you need to do other than wait a couple days. FC depletes a little all by itself each day.
 
There’s not much you need to do other than wait a couple days. FC depletes a little all by itself each day.
And when I am done with diluting the water or replacing it, will my SWG add back the chlorine at the right pace?
I imagine I will need to add salt at that point plus do a lot of other things.
 
And when I am done with diluting the water or replacing it, will my SWG add back the chlorine at the right pace?
I imagine I will need to add salt at that point plus do a lot of other things.
SWG just adds a fixed amount when they are powered on, there’s no pace or “smarts” to them. When you’re done, run all the water tests and adjust as needed. Then turn the SWG back on. Youll need to adjust the SWG up and down over the course of the season.
 
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SWG just adds a fixed amount when they are powered on, there’s no pace or “smarts” to them. When you’re done, run all the water tests and adjust as needed. Then turn the SWG back on. Youll need to adjust the SWG up and down over the course of the season.
ty
 
It looks like it is probably metal stains.

Most likely, it is a combination of copper, silver and iron.

Jack’s #2 Copper and Scale Stuff is sulfamic acid and it might work.

Sulfamic attacks copper, so you have to take the heater offline before adding sulfamic acid.

After doing the treatment, you should drain and refill if it is safe to do so.

Draining a pool can result in the pool popping out of the ground and floating.


So, you have to be very careful and check the ground water level before draining.

You should get professional advice before draining to verify if it is safe to drain and refill.

Why drain and refill?? I was getting ready to treat mine for copper staining, is it going to be necessary to drain and refill??
 
Why drain and refill?? I was getting ready to treat mine for copper staining, is it going to be necessary to drain and refill??
Drain is the only way to get rid of contaminated water. The sequestrant isn’t permanent, just temporary until you can replace the water.
 
Received my TFP Salt Pro Kit today. Thank you Nate and Sarah.
Planning on Ascorbic acid treatment and here are the products I was thinking of buying
1. Ascorbic Acid: Amazon.com
2. Algaeside: Amazon.com
3. Sequestrant: Amazon.com

Never did this before.
I think I should shut off SWG on the Aqualogic and then test water until chlorine gone as first step. Correct? Any comments on intended above chemicals?
 

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I have and frankly I am not confident as I have never raised or lowered the pH of a pool before. Quantitatively I do not have a feel for this.
Additionally I see that there are different ways to prepare water for Ascorbic acid.
For example: These directions speak about ajusting pH t 7.4-7.6 https://lesl.a.bigcontent.io/v1/sta...s Stain Remover directly,is less than 1.0 ppm.
The directions above are somewhat different :
  1. Take your chlorine down to 0 and PH down to 7.2, if there is chlorine in the water it won't hurt, it will just eat up the ascorbic acid, so you will need more to get rid of the stains. Let it decline naturally. Remove tablets, stop adding liquid chlorine, or turn off the SWG.

Am I missing stuff
 
Hi all
As mentioned just received the TFP salt pro kit and I am downloading poolmath which requires registratrion. Do I use the same credentials from the Web site ie user name and password on this app or are they separate?
 
Hi all
As mentioned just received the TFP salt pro kit and I am downloading poolmath which requires registratrion. Do I use the same credentials from the Web site ie user name and password on this app or are they separate?
Use the same credentials.
 
From the WIKI "

How To Use Polyquat 60 in Ascorbic Acid Treatments​

Polyquat 60 needs to be added weekly throughout the whole time that you have the chlorine levels below normal (or at zero during the ascorbic acid treatment). It does not last forever and is not to be used as a one-time dose unless you only have the chlorine below or at zero for less than a week.[15]

It is also important to note that you should not mix the commonly used, "Jack's Magic Magenta Stuff" pool cleaner formula and Polyquat in a pool. According to the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), Jack's Magenta Stuff is an acrylic acid copolymer. That means that it is a negatively charged polymer designed to attract and then bind to positively charged metal ions. On the other hand, Polyquat is a positively charged polymer. When you mix these two, you may form a cloudy mess in your pool water. Due to this, Trouble Free Pool recommends that you should never, mix these two.[16]"

QUESTION: Is this true for Jacks Purple stuff also? Amazon.com
 
It taken some time but I am getting all my ducks in a row slowly
1) TFP salt water test kit
2) 5 lbs of Vit C
3) Algaecide Polyquat 60
4) Jacks Purple Stuff ( delivery pending for next week)

The plan will be to drain the pool after treatment and rebalancing which I never did before
the pool is 40,000 SWG

What quantities of Borax and Chlorine and Baking soda should I have on hand to accomplish the balance? I don't mind buying a little to much rather than to run back and forth to stores. Do I need anything other chemical to do the job? (hopefully next week end)
 

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