A renter with a pool!

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A couple "non close up" pictures.

By the way, I put seven bags of Morton's Pool Salt in the pool tonight. FC (using a test strip) was around 1. I currently have the iC40 set to max output and was planning on leaving it there until about 10 tonight.IMG_8192.jpgIMG_8191.jpg
 
tested water chemistry this morning:

CH 150
TA 110
pH (using meter) 8.4
FC 5.5
CC .5
salt (according to Aquachek strip) 5.4 or 1980

Should I be adding one thing at a time and waiting a day etc? What's the right process?

(I added the salt about three days ago when I finished the SWG install. I put in 8 bags of Morton's Pool Salt from Walmart. I put in 1/2 gallon on bleach on that day and haven't added any since then)

thanks for the guidance!
 
I tested salt this morning (second time using the kit about 5 days apart). My first test came in at 4000ppm. Today's test for salt (using the recommended K1766) came in at 46 drops or 9200. Any idea of what might be happening?

Other results:

FC = 6
CC = .5
CH = 125
TA = 100
pH = 8.5

Thanks!
 
Just found this thread.. So cool you added a SWG to a rental pool. If you are curious about whether the SWG is producing. test the water right out of the return while the SWG is in a generation cycle. You can either stick a test strip in the flow or use a tube to collect the water from the return and compare it to the pool Cl, it should be higher.

Also just curious.. you guys did a lot of work on the pool as renters. I'm curious if you approached the owners about offsetting some of the cost of the SWG since its basically a permanent improvement to the property.
 

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JaySav said:
Thank you for the info. I have the Aqua Logic not Pro Logic tho, are they pretty similar? It seems hard to find stuff online about Aqua Logic, most of the time the search brings up Pro Logic or Aqua Rite for some reason. I will further troubleshoot today but I think it was a little of a false alarm. Of coarse when the guy showed up all was operating properly, long story short he cleaned the cell, called Hayward for IT troubleshooting, Hayward confirmed board was operating properly, they both discounted the Aqua Check salt test strips and told me to go get an actual salt test done. I did and here was my results:

Aqua Check salt strips: 3400 ppm
Aqua Logic board: 2700-2800 ppm (jumping from one to another)
LaMotte Tracer: 2800 ppm (got this same reading from 2 diff pool stores, 1st was a local shop 2nd was national chain, on same type of device)
"Fancy spin tester" possibly the LaMotte Waterlink: 2400 ppm (Local shop)

It's almost funny how many diff readings I have for this, I mean how do you determine which one to actually go with? One guy did the LaMotte Tracer test when I went in the first store, as I was walking out I forgot I wanted to see my phosphate reading so I turned around and the first guy all of a sudden was busy so the next guy did the spin test and that's when I noticed the diff readings, 2400 vs 2800, all within 5 min of each other. I asked the guy to explain the conflicting readings and he just said "the first guy shouldn't have used the LaMotte Tracer, he should've used the Spin tester"....good explanation. Phosphates on spin tester was around 800 some and at the second pool store phosphates were 300 some with dropper test. LOL. I've read some threads on here that the phosphates are very debatable, I probably wont do anything with them. My goal is to put the least amount of chemicals in the pool as possible. This all makes me that much more thankful to do my own water testing, what a headache.

I've read pretty good things about the the Aqua Check strips. I know they have a +/- but to have a +/- 600 ppm is just completely unreliable and unusable. Their next stop is the trash can. That fancy spin tester is reading pretty low but overall I think I'm going with the LaMotte Tracer/Pool board since they are all in the same ball park and the board is the actual device I need to satisfy since it's reading the salt and producing the chlorine. I added 2 bags of salt and will see if the reading comes up on the board in the next day.

Side note the pool service tech that came out, which was a really nice ma'-n-pa' family owned pool service company (very nice and honest), basically said he thought the Hayward system is one of the better systems out and to go with the salt reading the board was showing. The guy at the 1st pool store all but said my set up was junk in so many words. I've read the Aqua Logic isn't great and has some problems but man its hard to know who's advice to take with this stuff.
Click to expand...

Here is my experience a few weeks ago with salt testing, I initially thought the SWG was going bad but it turned out to be just low salt. Just thought I'd add my .02. Ultimately I've learned I only trust a test I conduct. I threw my salt test strips in the garbage, I now do the dropper test for salt myself but to be honest I just rely on my board since its the one that is reading/telling the SWG to make chlorine. If the board is happy and running correctly then I'm happy.
 
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@CarolineM retested today at 3200. Not 100% but I probably used 25ml!

I'm still really struggling with CYA testing. The idea of "until you don't see the black dot at all" seems subjective. I've personally put in 2lb dry acid and 1 gallon liquid over the past month. I can still "make out" the black dot until the water level is really close to 20. Advice?

Today:

by pH meter 8.5
salt 3200
FC 7
CC 0
Calcium 125
TA 90
CYA - who knows (20-40?)

Thanks!!
 
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Did a full test yesterday and CYA still seems like it's at 20. The guy that started up the pool (before I found tfp) finally sent me his bill. I wasn't at the house to watch, but the bill says he put in 5 pounds of stabilizer. So with seven pounds of dry acid and one gallon of liquid I would think my CYA should be much higher (I did do a filter change about a month after his addition). Any advice?

Yesterday at about 6PM

pH 8.2
Cl 3.5 (I'm running my pump about 12-15 hours per day with the salt cell set to 40%)
CH 150
TA 70
CYA 20
salt 3400
forgot to do CC

Thanks for the help!
 
The 5 pounds of stabilizer should have raised your CYA by 50 ppm. Either the pool volume is really off, the 'pool guy' lied, or you have had a massive exchange of water since it was added.
 
I hate to lean towards the “lie” part other than loss through evaporation and rain water there has been zero water change (and I guess what I mentioned isn’t really water exchange anyway).

I assume it would be 100% OK to add more dry acid, right? Being a SWG I’ve got a long way to go to get to the right CYA!
 
My test results from Sunday were:

Chlorine 3ppm
CC .5
salt 3000
CH 125
TA 70
pH 8.4
CYA 30

While I try to get my CYA higher, where should I try to keep my chlorine? Anything in particular that I should work to change?

Thanks for the guidance!
 
I head outside to night to check on the pool. My last full test was about a week ago. I decide to use a aquacheck strip and the chlorine looks very low. I get my full kit out and test again for chlorine. Sure enough - 1ppm.

I head out and look at the SWG and the light is red to indicate low salt. I'm thinking...that can't be - I just tested for salt last week and it was at 3000ppm. So I test (using the taylor kit) for salt and sure enough. It shows 2400ppm. Is that even possible? It has rained a lot here recently but I've done no water exchange (ever).

Is this normal?

(I put in enough bleach to raise my chlorine to 5ppm for now)

Thanks for the help!
 

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