A couple questions before putting in a SWG

Jump to latest Follow Reply
thechairperson

thechairperson

Bronze Supporter
May 25, 2019
54
Northwest Arkansas
Pool Size
17500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm about to order a SWG and I have a couple questions. For reference, this is my 3rd season with my pool (the pool is much older). I'm ordering a SWG in hopes that it will simplify my pool maintenance, and have decided on a CircuPool RJ-45 PLUS.

Here are pictures of my setup.
  1. pH: Should I expect to have problems balancing pH?
  2. Pump: I have a SSP. I think I'm fine keeping this for now?
  3. Timer: Would it be worth changing out my timer while I'm installing the SWG? So far I've only used it manually and left my pump on 24/7 during the summer. (Mostly just never got around to figuring out how and when to have the timer on.)
  4. Is there anything else I should consider changing out / upgrading / automating at this time? I'd like to make caring for my pool a lot easier and take less time.
Thanks!
 
You will have to be a bit creative on install. I do not believe the flow switch should be on a downward water direction so it should be installed elsewhere in your system.
Your pH will not react much differently than when using liquid chlorine which I assume you are using now.
You SS pump is fine. You say you run it 24 hours per day now so no issues. Just adjust the SWCG to generate how much FC you need each day.
Timer - You could save a lot of money on electricity if you used it, but that is up to you. Just be sure the SWCG is set on the Line outputs on the with the pump so if the pump is off the SWCG is off.
Robot cleaner makes cleaning the pool much easier. Look at the Maytronics S200 line of robots.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Teddyadams and thechairperson
I added a SWG and a Robot and life it so much easier. Once you get it dialed in you won't have to worry about Chlorine any more.
I added both in early 2020 and haven't looked back.
What was nice was going on vacation for 10 days and coming back to a clear pool with the same FC of 7 I left it with :)
I did add acid every week or 2 but I don't try and perfect it, just pour a little and test once a week.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thechairperson
In prepping to install a SWCG I purchased, it looks like my pool is not bonded. I'm not sure how old my pool is (we purchased the home two years ago), but the pump is not bonded and I do not see any bare copper wires by any of the equipment.

Where do people go from here? I suppose the answer depends on how much risk I'm willing to take, but I could bond the pump, SWCG, and the pool water (using a bond connection in the PVC pipe). I would love to pull up all the decking and install bonding around the pool, but it seems quite expensive and not in our budget.

Also, the timer (which goes to the pump and soon-to-be SWCG) is not protected by a GFCI. Is it the norm that this is installed at the breaker for pool equipment?
 
What is your deck made of?

I say bond as much as you can.

Pump needing to be on GFCI was added to the NEC a few years ago. Lights on GFCI has been in NEC for many years.
 
The wood and garden areas don't get bonded.

Any indications that the concrete areas have rebar in it?
 
ajw22 said:
Any indications that the concrete areas have rebar in it?
Click to expand...
That's a good question. I would guess that that patio portion next to the house does, but don't know for sure. I'm not sure about the portion that directly surrounds the pool. There are a couple places where it has cracked, which makes me think it might not, but I am not very knowledgeable in that area.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Well if you find some rebar at the edges of the concrete connect the bond grid to it.
 
Been tied up but trying to get this finished. I checked my pool chemicals and I have:
  • ph: 8
  • TA: 110
  • CH: 225
  • CYA: not sure (accidentally crushed my tube and am ordering a new one)
  • Salt: probably around 0 (ordering tests)
  • Chlorine: 0
It sounds like I shouldn't worry about TA until I get everything else balanced (increase CH, CYA, salt), and then look at CSI. Is that right?

Also, with CH:
  • People say not to mix in a bucket. It sounds like this is because the heat that is generated? If doing small amounts, I'm guessing this isn't an issue.
  • Why are the TFP recommended levels (350-550) so much higher than other sources? I'm just trying to learn.
  • With such a wide target range 350-550, what should I aim for? I'm coming from 225, so it'd be easiest to just meat or beat. Any reason to try to go for the middle (450)?
    • Not CH, but similar question with CYA range of 70-90

Thanks again!
 
  • Like
Reactions: markayash
Don’t worry about your TA or CH.

Your focus should be to maintain a FC level of 5 with daily testing.

Keep your pH in the 7s.

Figure out your CYA.

What is the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water?
 
  • Like
Reactions: markayash
thechairperson said:
Ok, I'll do that. Although, what's the point of testing TA and CH and the TFP guidance then?

I'll have to test the water from the hose to see what it is, but haven't filled anything since last year
Click to expand...
I would get your FC up before switching to the SWG. Makes it easier to dial in if your just trying to maintain a FC of 7 vs trying to increase it at the same time.
You can work on the other numbers once it’s up and running.
One difference most of us see if PH will creep up over time so I add a little liquid acid every couple of weeks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thechairperson
thechairperson said:
Although, what's the point of testing TA and CH and the TFP guidance then?
Click to expand...
If you stay within the Recommended Level ranges, your CSI should be in the range between aggressive to your plaster and calcium scaling tendency. So your CH is a little low. That is being counterbalanced by your higher TA. As your TA comes down by managing your pH, it would be advisable to raise and maintain your CH at 350 ppm minimum. Unless your fill water has significant calcium in it and you add water due to evaporation. But from your Location, that is not likely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thechairperson and markayash
thechairperson said:
Ok, I'll do that. Although, what's the point of testing TA and CH and the TFP guidance then?
Click to expand...

The point is get your FC and pH well under control before you spend time on TA and CH. TA and CH is some fine tuning to water balance.

I am trying to steer you where you priority should be - Fc and pH.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thechairperson and markayash
As for your salt levels, don't assume it's at 0 because you'll be in for a big surprise. If you've been using liquid chlorine up until now and you haven't done a partial or full drain in a while, you will have salt in your water. I switched my pool over from chlorine to SWG last year and when I tested the salt with my Taylor K1766 kit, I found I had almost 3000 ppm of salt. I only needed 2 bags of salt and I was good to go. Definitely check your salt level BEFORE you add any salt to be sure you don't go overboard.
 
  • Like
Reactions: markayash
On the test before you add, I drained my pool in May of last year. I changed to SWG at the end of August, so 4 months of operation with mostly bleach. It was about 1500 ppm. I only had to add about half the bags of salt I expected.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply