Since FC dropped less than 50% over the course of an hour today I don't believe there is any reason to suspect that ammonia remains an issue.
CYA help please
- Thread starter sealy99
- Start date
Since FC dropped less than 50% over the course of an hour today I don't believe there is any reason to suspect that ammonia remains an issue.
I am currently twice the lvl of SLAM. I checked it last night after sun dropped and was at 9 FC. Added 1 gl of Muriatic. Checked again this morning and FC is at 8, PH is 7.5. Safe to assume that with loss of 1ppm overnight that whatever was eating CYA is gone and chlorine consumption likely due to Texas sun?
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- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,802
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
The sun certainly is one culprit. It's taking my FC as well. But while you are SLAMming and waiting to pass the 3 criteria, no doubt there are still some organic critters taking your FC as well. At least you had a small window of opportunity to lower your PH and get back on the SLAM wagon. Keep it going and you'll eventually succeed.
Yes, I think you are finally on the downhill side, but before adding anymore CYA, do one of the 10 minute tests to see if the FC holds.
FC still holding at 8 after an 1 hour. Going to pick up stabilizer today and try to mitigate some of the chlorine loss.
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Just curious - is drain and refill an option?
Instead of fighting it with 300+ gallons of bleach and wasting weeks doing it, why not drain and refill (or partial drain and refill)?
I believe I had ammonia last two openings. It took some time to get water clear, but I was losing only about 10-20% FC overnight for a little over a week. The question I had - if you have a bacteria consuming CYA and turning into ammonia, do you still want to bring CYA to 30 or would it be better to test for ammonia and kill it first by slamming all night and only then worry about CYA.
Instead of fighting it with 300+ gallons of bleach and wasting weeks doing it, why not drain and refill (or partial drain and refill)?
I believe I had ammonia last two openings. It took some time to get water clear, but I was losing only about 10-20% FC overnight for a little over a week. The question I had - if you have a bacteria consuming CYA and turning into ammonia, do you still want to bring CYA to 30 or would it be better to test for ammonia and kill it first by slamming all night and only then worry about CYA.
If I had known a month ago what I know now, I would have drained it, scrubbed it, and refilled. At this point, even though it's green, I can see the bottom and feel like I'm close to a turning point. I've been in a constant SLAM situation. Thinking my CYA was at 40, I've worked to maintain FC levels between 16 and 20 for AL this time. Even when it's dropped faster than I can get to it, I don't think it's ever dropped below 6. With a CYA of 0 and a SLAM lvl of 4, seems like anything living in there should be dead by now. One change I am making is brushing the pool with a wire brush instead of the soft nylon bristles. In doing this I've found several areas of black algae that when I scrape the top off, a green cloud comes out from underneath. Took off all the pool fittings and return jets yesterday as well as pulled the pool light and scrubbed out the concave area behind it. Can't quite figure out how to disconnect the light yet and hope I don't light myself up in the process of figuring it out. Seems like floating in 8 feet of water and messing with electricity is likely to make me a contender for this year's Darwin award.
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Are we 100% sure on that (bold italic)? I questioned whether adding cya is a good idea when bacteria is present. But if what you say is 100% accurate, then this answers my question. Thanks
WOW! You have done the right thing in giving the "pros" the boot! THAT pic looks better than they had it????? No thanks!
You are doing the right thing. Hit it hard and heavy and you will be able to read the heads/tails of a coin in the deep end!
I would leave the light out for now to allow you to get to everything REAL good. Can you just sit it on the side of the pool?
Kim
You are doing the right thing. Hit it hard and heavy and you will be able to read the heads/tails of a coin in the deep end!
I would leave the light out for now to allow you to get to everything REAL good. Can you just sit it on the side of the pool?
Kim
Thanks Kim. No, the cord that attaches to the light will allow it to float, but no chance of reaching the pool deck. I'm sure it's a simple thing to disconnect. Just need to figure it out
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I am not so sure it is a simple thing to disconnect BUT I really do not know. See I THINK that the cord is LONG so that there is no connections or such from where it connects to the power to the light. Less chance of any problems with water and electricity!
BUT I really have no firm idea. This is just coming from what I have seen here on TFP during clean ups and building.
Kim
BUT I really have no firm idea. This is just coming from what I have seen here on TFP during clean ups and building.
Kim
Nikon5400, bacteria is not as hardy as algae and can not stand up to chlorine very well so even a small FC will wipe out the colony. The problem arises when ammonia is present because it will almost instantly react with the chlorine, preventing it from killing the bacteria. In those cases, including possibly sealy99's, adding CYA will feed the remaining bacteria, creating more ammonia and causing the CYA level to drop back to zero. That is why BoDarville created the procedures that Divin Dave posted. In those situations the ammonia must be destroyed and an FC level must hold before adding additional CYA. Consider the ammonia a fortress protecting the bacteria, we have to tear that down before we can attack the bacteria directly. Once an FC is holding though the bacteria is being destroyed fast enough that it is safe to add CYA. That is why I did not see the need for running a 10 minute test, FC had held enough to rule out any ammonia remaining in the pool. But the test confirmed that anyway, so moot point.
As for getting this problem in the first place, yes the FC must be zero. This is most common when a pool that closes for the winter loses its FC. I have seen it in both above ground and in ground pools up this way and it seems like it happens much more commonly some years than others. I don't have a clue why that is. The process can happen in any pool though if the FC drops to zero.
As for getting this problem in the first place, yes the FC must be zero. This is most common when a pool that closes for the winter loses its FC. I have seen it in both above ground and in ground pools up this way and it seems like it happens much more commonly some years than others. I don't have a clue why that is. The process can happen in any pool though if the FC drops to zero.
Sealy,
you dont want to disconnect any electrical. The fixture is water tight. So just take off the retaining ring, and the whole fixture will come out of the niche. On most lights, there is 1 screw at the top and a little tab at the bottom. Just take out the screw, tilt the fixture and out it comes.
- - - Updated - - -
Sealy,
you dont want to disconnect any electrical. The fixture is water tight. So just take off the retaining ring, and the whole fixture will come out of the nice. On most lights, there is 1 screw at the top and a little tab at the bottom. Just take out the screw, tilt the fixture and out it comes.
you dont want to disconnect any electrical. The fixture is water tight. So just take off the retaining ring, and the whole fixture will come out of the niche. On most lights, there is 1 screw at the top and a little tab at the bottom. Just take out the screw, tilt the fixture and out it comes.
- - - Updated - - -
Sealy,
you dont want to disconnect any electrical. The fixture is water tight. So just take off the retaining ring, and the whole fixture will come out of the nice. On most lights, there is 1 screw at the top and a little tab at the bottom. Just take out the screw, tilt the fixture and out it comes.
Correct, the cord on the light fixture is sealed and goes through the conduit all the way back to the switch/panel.