It was still dark when I got the water for sampling. I used the same amount of chemicals and water each time. I expected FC to be high since I added 3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine to the pool since Sunday. All the tests were some with the same pool water. Maybe checking the filter will provide some answers but it will not happen for about 2 weeks unfortunately.
Water with blue hue
- Thread starter kal2002
- Start date
Hi guys,
We finally got a chance to clean the filter, run the pump for over 24 hours, and did an overnight chlorine test, the water is still a cloudy blue. The overnight chlorine test results were:
last night = 18.5
this morning = 17.0
CC was zero. I wonder why.
Sounds like I got algae, right? So I have to shock. With CYA at 60, I will have to raise FC to about 35. Hopefully that is the problem.
Have another interesting finding with the filter. For one reason or another, there are rust stains or brown stains on them. What could cause the stains?
- - - Updated - - -
I forgot to ask. Should we be doing the shocking if it rains?
We finally got a chance to clean the filter, run the pump for over 24 hours, and did an overnight chlorine test, the water is still a cloudy blue. The overnight chlorine test results were:
last night = 18.5
this morning = 17.0
CC was zero. I wonder why.
Sounds like I got algae, right? So I have to shock. With CYA at 60, I will have to raise FC to about 35. Hopefully that is the problem.
Have another interesting finding with the filter. For one reason or another, there are rust stains or brown stains on them. What could cause the stains?
- - - Updated - - -
I forgot to ask. Should we be doing the shocking if it rains?
CC are not always present when you have a FC drop or algae.
Where did you get a FC of 35ppm? According to the FC/CYA Chart, the SLAM level is 24ppm for a CYA of 60ppm. And realize it is not a one time addition, you have to maintain the FC level and follow the entire SLAM Process.
Rain does not affect the SLAM process.
Where did you get a FC of 35ppm? According to the FC/CYA Chart, the SLAM level is 24ppm for a CYA of 60ppm. And realize it is not a one time addition, you have to maintain the FC level and follow the entire SLAM Process.
Rain does not affect the SLAM process.
I was going by the Yel/Mstr level on the FC/CYA chart since the pool had mustard algae before. Should I just go by SLAM level of 24?
Yes, get to the point where you pass the OCLT test (and 0 CC) at normal SLAM levels, then if you still suspect mustard algae, raise it up to the mustard algae slam level for 24 hours. Here is the pool school article: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/148-mustard-algae
What linen said .... we see many people come here thinking they have yellow algae or some exotic never before seen species and it is usually just normal algae.
The article will explain how to spot the mustard algae and tell you how to deal with it.
The article will explain how to spot the mustard algae and tell you how to deal with it.
Yesterday afternoon at 1:00pm I added enough chlorine (31.5) to start the shocking. The pump was running since then. FC was down to 30 last night at 8:40pm. This afternoon (24 hrs. later) FC was down to 27. Yesterday was cloudy but today is very sunny in the lower 60's. Water temperature is 59 degrees. After shocking for 24+ hours, I want to say that the water looks less cloudy but I cannot really tell. I can see the cloudiness in shallow places and it still looks bluish in the deep end. I can see the bottom of the pool at the deep end if I stand right next to it but not from a few feet away. Where the sun hits the water, I can see whitish streaks in it. Does this sound like the shocking is working?
Also, after I added enough drops in the FC test, the pool water does not become clear again. It stays a little brown. I tested for CC. It was 0. But I cannot get the water to clear as it was before I added the powder and the drops. Any idea what that means?
- - - Updated - - -
When I went to buy chlorine at the pool store, I was telling them about the condition of the pool water. He suggested that I use HASA Swimming Pool Super Stain-Out. He thinks there may be metals in the water somehow. Has anyone used this stuff before?
Also, after I added enough drops in the FC test, the pool water does not become clear again. It stays a little brown. I tested for CC. It was 0. But I cannot get the water to clear as it was before I added the powder and the drops. Any idea what that means?
- - - Updated - - -
When I went to buy chlorine at the pool store, I was telling them about the condition of the pool water. He suggested that I use HASA Swimming Pool Super Stain-Out. He thinks there may be metals in the water somehow. Has anyone used this stuff before?
Update: FC was 26.5 at 6:18 pm. Pool water's condition has not changed as far as I can see. It is still cloudy with a bluist tint. I can see the tint with at the shallow places. I will see tomorrow morning(before sunrise) if the FC is the same. I am beginning to think that my issue is not an algae issue. After all this time with the pump runnning and the chlorine at such high level, nothing seems to have changed. Can it be a filter problem? The filters are about 5 years old. They are the filter cartridges.
Just tested for FC. It was still 26.5 so no change from last night. CC was 0. Water still looks cloudy.
- - - Updated - - -
Forgot to mention that I tested at 6:30 am.
- - - Updated - - -
Question is: should I continue shocking and increase the chlorine level?
- - - Updated - - -
Forgot to mention that I tested at 6:30 am.
- - - Updated - - -
Question is: should I continue shocking and increase the chlorine level?
I noticed that there are a lot of small white particles floating in the water whenever I tested for FC. Maybe that explains the white rays of going thru the water when the sun hits it. Should I be using a clarifier?
- - - Updated - - -
I meant white rays of light going thru the water.
- - - Updated - - -
I meant white rays of light going thru the water.
I tried but it did not work. I will try again but my file is too big to upload to here.
Maybe this will work:
- - - Updated - - -
Finally, here is a picture of my pool a of today. You can see that it gets cloudier as it gets deeper.
- - - Updated - - -
Finally, here is a picture of my pool a of today. You can see that it gets cloudier as it gets deeper.
It is easier if you just upload your photos to a host site (Photobucket,Flickr,Picasa, etc) and post a link to them here.
Today is Wednesday. I started shocking on Saturday. The pool water's condition has not improved. I even increased the level of chlorine to 35 on Monday and it did not make any difference. What's the next step?
I would have lowered the pH prior to shocking since the pool water was already saturated (or slightly over-saturated) with calcium carbonate. Adding hypochlorite sources of chlorine would raise the pH further (especially during shocking). You originally mentioned the water being blue, but after elevating the chlorine level you refer to it as cloudy blue. If it got cloudier when adding more chlorine, you might consider lowering the pH or letting the chlorine drop to see if it improves, especially if you filter 24/7. If you can see small white particles in your water sample, then that should be getting filtered out in your filter unless it's torn or damaged -- usually any particles you can see are more than large enough to get filtered (it's only milky colloids that stay cloudy and don't get filtered).
I did try to lower the PH to about 7.2 before shocking but i did not test for PH. Can i lower it more now by adding more MA? The pool water appeared to be a little clearer this morning. I will check it again tomorrow morning. I did not expect the process to take this long. Is this normal?
Last edited: