60amp subpanel- trying to put in heat pump

[Hillcountry]

Goals:
1) Heat our 436 gallon hot tub in Austin TX (usually mild winters)- wont be running in really cold temps (50+ degrees probably). Possibly heat pool (17k gallons) but not a requirement.
2) Consider automation
Have propane already plumbed but propane is very expensive and venting is problematic (will have to drill through a large structural concrete wall). So I was considering a heat pump.

Subpanel- 6 AWG wire run 50 feet protected with 60 amp 220 volt breakers on both ends.

Pool equipment mounted currently (all 220 volt- some old equipment has been pulled)
2.34 Amps 2 LED Sports Court lights = 2*1.17A=2.34 amps (30amp breaker previously used on older halide bulbs)
2.34 Amps 2 LED Sports Court lights = 2*1.17A=2.34 amps (30amp breaker previously used on older halide bulbs)
12 Amps Variable Pool Pump 12 amps@220V 1.5HP (20 amp breaker) (Pentair Superflow VS)
11.5 Amps Fixed Spa Pump 11.5@220V amps 2.6HP (20 amp breaker)
Total so far 28amps

Pool and spa are plumbed seperately but can be modified.
Questions:

• What size heat pump can I get? Should I look at MCA rating? Will it be adequate for spa heating (I understand heat pump will take a while).
• I wonder if its worth replumbing the pool to eliminate the dedicated spa pump (which has a bad motor which needs so be repaired anyway). This would save 11.5 amps in power requirement. Could be done in conjunction with automation.
• See attached pics. Yes its old (1990s). I’m in Austin and we are considering massive reno in 2 years so not trying to make is perfect.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Note that the NEC states that a CB should not be loaded more than 80% of its rated capacity. So the max load on your 60 amp breakers should be 48 amps.

You then have 20 amps available capacity now or 32 amps if you get rid of your spa pump. Neither will get you many BTUs.

You should run a new dedicated 50-60 amp circuit for a 120K-140K HP.

Look at the specs for these Raypak HPs…

https://globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=cfa65b8a-eab1-4048-afbd-42004c1a51d4

 

[Hillcountry]

Welcome to TFP.

Note that the NEC states that a CB should not be loaded more than 80% of its rated capacity. So the max load on your 60 amp breakers should be 48 amps.

You then have 20 amps available capacity now or 32 amps if you get rid of your spa pump. Neither will get you many BTUs.

You should run a new dedicated 50-60 amp circuit for a 120K-140K HP.

Look at the specs for these Raypak HPs…

https://globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=cfa65b8a-eab1-4048-afbd-42004c1a51d4

Thanks appreciate the input. We are struggling which angle to take- with large renovations planned soon (including probably increasing our 200amp service to 400 amp, and maybe even a full pool remodel or redo) I am hesitant to spend much money.

So when you say I’ve got 20amp left to use for a heat pump is that 20 amp based off MCA?

 

[ajw22]

So when you say I’ve got 20amp left to use for a heat pump is that 20 amp based off MCA?

That should be the specified HP amp requirement. You cannot support any of these HPs with 20 amps…

 

[BMerrill]

Discuss your specific electrical needs with a qualified electrician.
Most likely they would recommend upgrading the feeder wire and panel to 100 amps.
With your future pool upgrade, you may consider an all in one pool panel with automation.

 

[PoolGate]

I don't think a heat pump is adequate to heat a spa in the conditions you describe. They don't work very well below 70 and get progressively worse the colder it gets.