Filter Cartridges Do Not Last

[Bama Rambler]

If you're still that close to 100 you really need to drain half again. There's really no other way to get it down if you don't live in and area that has R/O available. And even if you do it's pretty expensive.

Also, since you show 2 ppm CC, as soon as you get the CYA down you need to shock.

Which kit did you get? The reason I ask is because Leslies has been known to sell their K-2005 equivilent kit and tell people that it's the same as the K-2006. Does yours have the FAS-DPD drops & powder?

 

[jblizzle]

Please don't tell me they sold you the K-2005 and said it was the same as the K-2006 The DPD chlorine test is NOT the same as the FAS-DPD test ... or maybe you just got lucky since we rarely hear of anyone finding the correct test kit locally.

If it is the K-2005, you would be best served by adding the FAS-DPD test to it:
http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html

What do you mean just under 100 on the CYA? The water was below the 100 line or above it?

No other reasonable way to lower the CYA. Would have been best to confirm the CYA level first and then replace 75% of the water instead of 50% and no possibly another 50%.

If you leave it at 100ppm, you can never let the FC get below 7ppm or you risk algae. IF you do get algae and have to go through the shock process, then you shock FC level is 39ppm. Oh an BTW, if your FC > 10ppm, then the pH test is not valid. These are reasons we recommend lower CYA.

 

[bobodaclown]

Hey Jeff,
The only way to get CYA down is to drain.
Bob

 

[rain6460]

Don't know which kit these jokers sold me but it was he Darn biggest one they had. When I mentioned specs I got from you guys, they handed me a kit and told me it was the one I needed. Not sure which model it is but I can tell you there's no powder in it. I spent 50 bucks on the Darn thing, it should be the right one! Oh well I've already used the thing so I can't return it now.

So are you guys saying if I don't also get FAS-DPD chlorine test, I can't possibly get accurate readings in this little 10,000 gal. pool? I apologize if I sound a bit irritated, it's not at you guys. You've been very helpful, it's just that I've spent more money on this little a above ground in the past 3 or 4 years, then I spent on my in ground pool the whole 13 years I had it!

I understand I need to drain more water. Thanks for the help. I'll check back again soon.

Jeff

 

[jblizzle]

If there is no powder, you did not get the FAS-DPD test.

The problem with the DPD test you got (matching pink colors right?) is that it only goes up to 5ppm and you are still guessing at the color. The FAS-DPD test requires you to count drops until the sample turns clear. So it is accurate to either 0.5ppm or 0.2ppm depending on the water sample size and will reliably go up over 50ppm.

The testing and shock process are the same regardless of the pool size or whether it is in the ground or above it. Without the FAS-DPD you can not accurately determine 2 of the 3 conditions to stop the shock process and you can not even measure the FC above 5ppm.

Here is some info on the different tests:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

 

[rain6460]

If there is no powder, you did not get the FAS-DPD test.

The problem with the DPD test you got (matching pink colors right?) is that it only goes up to 5ppm and you are still guessing at the color. The FAS-DPD test requires you to count drops until the sample turns clear. So it is accurate to either 0.5ppm or 0.2ppm depending on the water sample size and will reliably go up over 50ppm.

The testing and shock process are the same regardless of the pool size or whether it is in the ground or above it. Without the FAS-DPD you can not accurately determine 2 of the 3 conditions to stop the shock process and you can not even measure the FC above 5ppm.

Here is some info on the different tests:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

Hi Jason,
You lost me with the last sentence of your post, about stopping the shock process? I read the extended test kit directions at the link you posted, and understood most of it until I got to the "notes." That's when I realized I might be in over my head

Jeff
PS. Just for the record, I got "bleeped" in my previous post because twice I used a word very similar to "darned" but with an M instead of the R. No f-bombs!

 

[jblizzle]

Sorry. We know all this can be overwhelming, but with time and reading, you will get it.

From Pool School:
pool-school/shocking_your_pool

In Step 3, there are 3 tests/conditions that are required to be met before you stop the shock process. A and B are not really possible unless you have the FAS-DPD test because the other tests are just not accurate enough.

The link I gave you previously was just to show you the difference and limitations between the 3 chlorine tests: OTO, DPD, and FAS-DPD

 

[rain6460]

Please don't tell me they sold you the K-2005 and said it was the same as the K-2006 The DPD chlorine test is NOT the same as the FAS-DPD test ... or maybe you just got lucky since we rarely hear of anyone finding the correct test kit locally.

If it is the K-2005, you would be best served by adding the FAS-DPD test to it:
http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html

What do you mean just under 100 on the CYA? The water was below the 100 line or above it?

No other reasonable way to lower the CYA. Would have been best to confirm the CYA level first and then replace 75% of the water instead of 50% and no possibly another 50%.

If you leave it at 100ppm, you can never let the FC get below 7ppm or you risk algae. IF you do get algae and have to go through the shock process, then you shock FC level is 39ppm. Oh an BTW, if your FC > 10ppm, then the pH test is not valid. These are reasons we recommend lower CYA.

Just to answer the question about my CYA test being "Just under 100"...that is, it was just over the line.

OK guys, I'm going to order the right Chlorine test, but what do I do in the meantime? OOPS! before I go any further, I should probably mention something. Last night after the partial drain and refilling of the pool, I threw in a bag of shock (1 LB bag of 68% Calcium Hypochlorite). And so the readings I posted earlier today were probably only about 12 hours after adding the shock. Also ran filter all night. Would this effect the accuracy of tests?

Also, to those of you that have been following this thread, I need to emphasize that my main concern this very moment is not doing damage to my new filter cartridge (3rd one in 3 years @ $150 a pop!). Now after listening to everyone's input, I think it's a pretty safe bet that my water chemistry is to blame for this. Sooo, I just want to know if most of you agree that my chronically low pH levels are probably to blame, as Jasonlion seemed to think?

So here's where I'm at. My CYA seems to be the only part of my chemistry that's still way off. So until I get it down by draining more water, I'm going to be extra vigilant about keeping pH up. I am going to order the FAS -DPD Chlorine test as soon as I finish writing this. But again, what about in the meantime? I'm draining again tonight and refilling by tomorrow. Once I get refilled the chlorine will be low. Should I stay away from the shock, and just bring level up with liquid? And can I at least squeeze by with the chlorine tests I have now to hold me until I get the FAS? Thanks again for all the help!

Jeff

 

[jblizzle]

The cal-hypo is adding CH, but after an hour, the chemistry in the pool would be uniform.

Just keep the FC registering something until you get the test.

I don't recall your CH, but the liquid chlorine is safer.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[rain6460]

OK Jason Thanks. My CH was only 250, so I think I'm OK there. What is your recommended shock for an above ground? Also, do you agree that my pH is probably the most important factor in the health of my cartridge? Thanks

Jeff

 

[jblizzle]

I do not know much about cartridges ... I would think calcium would be a problem if you got scaling. But that would require high pH.

Liquid chlorine is the best form to use for all your chlorine needs.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[rain6460]

Hi,
Just a quick update. Drained another half last night, refilled today. CYA is slightly under 50 (Above the line that is!).

Aerated my water while refilling, by clamping my hose to side of pool and spraying into the air...pretty good for a rookie ay? My pH is nice and high, close to 7.8. Don't think I've ever had it this high before. Sure hope this puts an end to my cartridge woes.

Got an email saying my FAS chlorine test is on the way, so I'll be able to do this right finally! Thanks everyone. I really do appreciate all the help I've gotten. Glad I found you guys :-D

Jeff
PS. NO MORE PUCKS IN MY POOL!

PSS. One more question...the kit I bought didn't include the calculator. I could use the one they offer online, but I'd like to have one in hand. But I can't seem to find them anywhere. Can they be purchased separately? Thanks

 

[rain6460]

How about it anyone...Is it possible to buy one of the pool calculators anywhere? Thanks

Jeff

 

[jblizzle]

The poolcalculator is a website.
There are few apps that are similar if that is what you are asking.

You could save the website and have a local copy I think.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short

 

[rain6460]

Hey Thanks Jason. After going back to the store that sold me the kit, I noticed there was another kit that actually had a physical version of a pool calculator included with the kit. Don't know if it was the same as "The Pool Calculator" or not. Just checked and there are indeed some apps for my iPhone that are similar. I guess I can experiment and try to figure out which Apple app is best by comparing results with online Pool Calculator. Thanks Jason.

Jeff

 

[bigmoguls]

I just downloaded Pool Pal from the Android Play store.

 

[JasonLion]

There is a Pool Calculator app for the iPhone that duplicates the PoolCalculator.com web site with a few very minor additions. It does have a fairly annoying bug however, it forgets any settings at irregular intervals, but other than that it is just about perfect

 

[jblizzle]

I just downloaded Pool Pal from the Android Play store.

There is also another app developed by another member here called SimplePool for Android

 

[rain6460]

There is a Pool Calculator app for the iPhone that duplicates the PoolCalculator.com web site with a few very minor additions. It does have a fairly annoying bug however, it forgets any settings at irregular intervals, but other than that it is just about perfect

Thanks guys. I have an iPhone, just curious what the name of the app was Jason? They have several at the Apple store, and I was looking at one called the Pool Monitor that looked pretty decent.

Also have a chemical question. Just recently drained most of my pool, and since refilling I have a CH test of 160. Is that a concern with my AG vinyl liner pool? Thanks.

Jeff

 

[jblizzle]

I think the iPhone app is called the same thing: poolcalculator although I am not positive.

Low CH does not matter in a vinyl pool.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short